Doing repair & need help
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
Doing repair & need help
My glow plug controller and or relay went bad. I wanted to replace it with a push button. I changed all the glow plugs to Motorcraft. I got a diagram from Zigster's page to install a switch, but when I looked at what I have, all the wires are different colors. I have a 90 E350. My relay has four terminals. One has a white wire, that goes into what I assume is the controller underneath. It has a tag that says "white wire on this terminal only". The next terminal going clockwise has two large yellow wires that go into the harness. The next terminal has two red wires. One goes into the harness and one goes into the controller. The last terminal has a small yellow wire that goes into the controller, and a metal strip that folds up and then bolts onto the controller. From that bolt are two black wires that go into the harness. Also out of the controller is a blue wire with a fuse holder that becomes black and goes into the harness, a black wire to a ground, and a green wire that goes to the terminal at the end of the metal strip. My question is what gets changed? Is the wire from the harness with the fuse holder the power to the controller? Can that be used to power the new switch? Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to get back on the road so I can work tomorrow. Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Portland, Maine
2 yellow wires - power from engine harness at all times
2 red wires - from ignition GP relay trigger (power w/key on)
zig-zag - resistor power to GP's little wire is to controller senses temp of zig-zag to shut off GP's once warmed (will have power w/key on until GP's are heated then it pulses)
1 white wire - (on this terminal only) disconnect this wire from relay and hook wire to manual switch then manual switch to GOOD ground.
1 blue wire - this is not to a fuse this is the wait to start light
1 black wire - ground ground ground make sure this is grounded well
now key off should have power at 2 yellow wires only
now key on should have power at 2 yellow wires, 2 red wires, white wire, and zig-zag until WTS light goes out then zig-zag will pulse.
make sure you are getting good voltage at the two yellow wires w/key on if not....
make sure all connections are clean at GP relay.....engine harness plug (these get all corroded and will not let power get to relay all the time) and the starter solnoid where the power comes from to feed the GP system
good luck
2 red wires - from ignition GP relay trigger (power w/key on)
zig-zag - resistor power to GP's little wire is to controller senses temp of zig-zag to shut off GP's once warmed (will have power w/key on until GP's are heated then it pulses)
1 white wire - (on this terminal only) disconnect this wire from relay and hook wire to manual switch then manual switch to GOOD ground.
1 blue wire - this is not to a fuse this is the wait to start light
1 black wire - ground ground ground make sure this is grounded well
now key off should have power at 2 yellow wires only
now key on should have power at 2 yellow wires, 2 red wires, white wire, and zig-zag until WTS light goes out then zig-zag will pulse.
make sure you are getting good voltage at the two yellow wires w/key on if not....
make sure all connections are clean at GP relay.....engine harness plug (these get all corroded and will not let power get to relay all the time) and the starter solnoid where the power comes from to feed the GP system
good luck
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
Thanks for your help. When the white wire comes off the relay, then gets attached to the new switch, I am in effect grounding it out when the switch is on. Is that what makes the relay work to start with? I am now controlling the amount of time it is grounded?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 309
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From: Portland, Maine
from what I understand is yes take white wire off and cover end then hook wire to relay where white wire was with a switch you can ground out that terminal which will in turn make it possible to control GP's manually
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
You should try the solid state GP controller test in the Haynes diesel engine repair manual 10330. It is by far better than a pushbutton if all GPs are working, plus the relay on the top is replaceable if thats the problem.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I strongly disagree with the glow plug controller being better than manual control.
I sometimes start my truck 50 times a day. If the glow plug controller is working the glow plugs heat every time I start it.
With manual control I use them for 5 second at 30 degrees or higher the first time I start it in the morning. The rest of the day I just start the engine. My glow plugs last for years this way instead of months.
Above 70 I do not use them at all.
70 down to about 30 I give them 5 seconds.
30 down to 0 I give them 8 seconds.
Below 0 and they get 10 seconds.
I sometimes start my truck 50 times a day. If the glow plug controller is working the glow plugs heat every time I start it.
With manual control I use them for 5 second at 30 degrees or higher the first time I start it in the morning. The rest of the day I just start the engine. My glow plugs last for years this way instead of months.
Above 70 I do not use them at all.
70 down to about 30 I give them 5 seconds.
30 down to 0 I give them 8 seconds.
Below 0 and they get 10 seconds.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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i have a manual switch and use double coil glow plugs,like dave i abuse my tractor allday with many starts and stops,i have had these glow plugs last for years,they are good plugs but they would not last as long with a controler.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 692
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From: newfoundland canada
I have 14 months on the current gp's in my truck.How,you may ask,i controll them.Only when there needed,not every start.I use them 1st start of the day,after that if the truck hasnt sat for at least 4 hours it fires right with out them.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
Well guys the gentleman asking the question has a solid state system, on other forums it is strongly advised to retain the system in good working order. The system if working has been proven best time and time again. Mine has worked for 12 years with no problems. Did have some Autolite/Champion problems with GPs but SSC and Beru are one happy family.
Granted the older gp systems were very bad and burned up GPs when they stuck on. Doing the push button with them is strongly advised.
Do any of you have the exact way written up to do the push button in the Solid state system, if so please PM it to me as I would like to see it and keep it in my files....thanks
PLC7.3
Granted the older gp systems were very bad and burned up GPs when they stuck on. Doing the push button with them is strongly advised.
Do any of you have the exact way written up to do the push button in the Solid state system, if so please PM it to me as I would like to see it and keep it in my files....thanks
PLC7.3
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
I finally got around to putting in the push button switch. My car broke down so I had to fix that first. My question is, should I still hear the click coming from the controller? I took off the white wire and ran a wire from that terminal to the switch and then to a ground. When I turn the key on, the WTS light still goes on and I hear the same click. Is it from the relay or the controller? I was not using the button when I heard the click.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
I waited until this morning to check. The WTS light never came on because I had the truck plugged in all night. The gauge went up slightly after I started. Still heard a faint click. This is a van so I hear it through the cover. Is there anything else that clicks? Could I attach a meter to the GP wire to see if it gets power without pushing the button, when the WTS light is on? Thanks for your help.