I tried removing my CPS yesterday and it seem like it's in there good. Unplugged it, removed the 10mm bolt and can't pull it out.

 

i just take a screwdriver and GENTLY work it out. the plastic housing can break pretty easy your better off thying to wiggle the thing out with your fingers though.

 

i believe on the engine side across the firewall from inside the cab. There is 2? more
bolts on the wiring harness to computer that you also have to remove.

 

Yes. It's the o-ring seal around the body of the sender that's the trouble. Suggest spraying a little Free-All at the base to help lubricate it on the way out. Just don't force it hard.

 

Huh???? He is talking about the CPS not the PCM. The easiest way I have found to get it out once it's unplugged and the bolt is removed is to take about 3-4 flat screwdrivers of increasing blade size under the truck with you. Start with the smallest and insert it between the lip at the base of the CPS and the motor, but don't pry, twist. Twist the handle of the screwdriver, it will be tough at first, then continue with each increasingly larger screwdriver. It is also easier if you take the hold down bracket and turn the CPS in it's hole.

 

I'll give it a try again today.
I haven't had any problems with the engine dieing but I noticed the Tach doesn’t move when cranking to start and every now and then I get a longer crank than normal to start. And, every once in a while I get a start failure, turn the key off and crank again to start. <O</O
Is the Tach not moving when cranking a sure tale sign the CPS is going bad?

 

yep sounds like you caught it real early. if that ones still working and you dont damage it getting it out i wouild hold onto it as an emergency spare

 

Hey psdpower,
The screwdriver/twist idea was perfect. That thing came right out. I'd been pulling on it. The truck seems a little smoother now, but the Tach still doesn't move when cranking.
Thanks everybody.

 

When I start my truck the tach doesn't move. It does a little jump when I start cranking.

 

I have heard that there are 2 P/N's for the CPS. The wrong P/N can sieze in the hole due to metallurgical properties. Maybe that had something to do with your's being stuck?

 

Well, I don't know. I was looking at the TYMAR filter system and found were he'd written about the CPM and the Tach moving. He said that on 2002's and up the Tach probably won't move when cranking. I did get that little bugger out of there though. Didn't seem to damage the old one, so I'm going to take the advise and keep it as an emergency part behind the seat.

 

The problem with using the wrong part number is the dissimilar metals in the connector. They could corrode and bond the plug and connector together. They all seem to be a little tough to get out, but a bit patience and some screwdrivers usually does the trick. BTW in an emergency the 2 part numbers are interchangeable, either one will start and run your truck. Just switch it out for the proper one when you get a chance.

 

Not a problem, glad to help. The tach on my early 99 doesn't move while cranking either.