Barr's stop leak for engine oil
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
I don't think I can agree none work. I have used Lucus products and have had results that I thought made it worth using. Have you tried checking to see if loose bolts, or something loose might be part of the cause. The way I see it is it is worth tring a product that has been around a while, because the worst thing is you will have to do as reccommended above.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
BearTracks, the thing about Barr's Stop Leak and similar products, is it does not know right where to go, and what leak it needs to stop. A small oil galley, and if there already is a deposit, varnish, etc. then it is "plugged"! Same with the stuff used for cooling systems. that pesky pin hole drip in the radiator, or along a radiator weld is a nuisisance. But the stop leak usually ends up slowing coolant flow altogether in the radiator, engine block passage, sticks somewhere in the heater core. unless you were selling the vehicle two days later, to an unsuspecting sap, it's best just to fix the leak in the oil pan, with a fresh Fel-Pro gasket. Make sure any little kids aren't around, so if you do it yourself, they won't hear any occasional four letter words. Lastly, you know you'll sleep soundly at night, knowing the oil pan gasket has been replaced. With the Barr's Stop Leak in your engine, you'll toss and turn every night. Possibly get hooked on sleeping pills. Insomnia. Night sweats, you wake up tired and nervous. All because, you are wondering where that "Stop Leak" is going inside the engine?!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,899
Likes: 2
From: Lynnwood, WA
Oil pan leaks are usually not *that* difficult to fix; however, I disagree on the usefulness of the leak stoppers. They do work occasionally, and depending on what's leaking, it might make sense to try them first. I know my rear main seal leaks a little, and if it gets worse, I'll probably try all leak stoppers first.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,628
Likes: 345
From: Albuquerque
I think most of them work by swelling the gaskets. At least in a tranny they swell the rubber stuff and it seals. Unfortunately it keeps swelling them till other problems develop.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 2
From: Seattle WA.
I used it in my 80 Corvette, it was leaking at the rear main. It leaks very little now, I'm pleased with the results.
They make a power steering sealer also that I used in it, and it didn't completly stop it. But at the cost of a rebuilt power assist cylinder, it slowed the leak down to almost nothing. I can live with that for a while.
I put it in my 51 6 cylinder Flathead and I don't see any leaking now. But haven't started driving it on the street yet.
They make a power steering sealer also that I used in it, and it didn't completly stop it. But at the cost of a rebuilt power assist cylinder, it slowed the leak down to almost nothing. I can live with that for a while.
I put it in my 51 6 cylinder Flathead and I don't see any leaking now. But haven't started driving it on the street yet.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,821
Likes: 19
From: South Dakota
There has only been 3 times where a additive actually worked for me.
1. Auto-rx
2. Radiator seal (bars leak) for that small pin hole that my wifes tempo had.
3. Believe it or not, even though I'm a strong advocate against Lucas in a motor, the stuff did help to drown out the whine in my wifes '02 Explorer rear end. (It has 100k mi on it).
1. Auto-rx
2. Radiator seal (bars leak) for that small pin hole that my wifes tempo had.
3. Believe it or not, even though I'm a strong advocate against Lucas in a motor, the stuff did help to drown out the whine in my wifes '02 Explorer rear end. (It has 100k mi on it).
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
If you want to stop a pan leak and you can tell where it is coming from, go get a can of brake cleaner and a can of a product called "The Right Stuff." It is in a can like a whip cream can. You bend the nozzle end to make it flow. It is expensive at about $15 or so a can.
Let the engine cool, spray the area with the brake cleaner and then blow away the brake cleaner with compressed air. Then take some of the right stuff goop and push it up into the leak as if you were packing wheel bearings.
I have stopped many leaks with this stuff. One friend of mine says that he never even bothers with degreasing, he just pushes it into place and it works.
Good luck,
Doc
ASE Master
Let the engine cool, spray the area with the brake cleaner and then blow away the brake cleaner with compressed air. Then take some of the right stuff goop and push it up into the leak as if you were packing wheel bearings.
I have stopped many leaks with this stuff. One friend of mine says that he never even bothers with degreasing, he just pushes it into place and it works.
Good luck,
Doc
ASE Master