ok im rebuilding my motor its going into my 88 f-150. the motor right now is a stock 302. i want to put a small cam in it to gain power but i dont want to screw up the stock speed density system. the cam i was looking at is the crower compupro stage 2. the specs are 112* grind lobe center, 204int, 210exh duration @.050, .459int and .464exh lift. does this sound like a good cam for my truck. basically i want more power but i want it to be streetable and i dont want to mess up the speed density system. also im rebuilding the heads. i want to get a better aftermarket valve spring. what do u guys recomend?

 

Compare to Comp Cams: EFI speed density, works w/stock computer. Very strong torque, excellent mileage, good idle quality. The operating range is 1000 to 5200 rpm's. The camshaft part number is 31-255-5. The cam grind number is XE250H-14. The duration @ .050 Intake 206, Exhaust 212. The valve lift w/1.6 rocker Intake .462, Exhaust .474. The lobe separation angle is 114 degrees. I think some aftermarket heads will help alot such as the World Products Windsor R 180 (they are cast iron). Summit Racing sells them for $939.00 fully assembled.

 

Since your wanting to rebuild the stock heads, trickflow makes a good spring kit for stock ford heads.

You may want to purchase the springs from the same company as the camshaft, the cam companies have a disclaimer that if your not using their springs and lifters, they don't have to cover the camshaft should something go wrong during break in, or at all for that matter.

You could always go with a custom camshaft, there are a couple ford specialists out there. later

 

Look for one with 204/214 like mine. Many different brands have it...even Summit has one. They are made by the same manufacturer.

The one you listed may work fine but I like the 214 Exh lobe to better crutch the poor E7 exhaust ports.

FWIW;
It runs great. Good throttle response/driveability and MPG. It doesn't lope like a high dur race cam but when cruising at low RPM you can definitely hear a nonstock exhaust note (idle is normal).

Hopefully in three weeks the 418W will be done and in it's place though :-)

 

moneypit u have the comp cams cam listed above in your truck. and everything came out ok? no special machine work needed to make it work in the motor?

 

Mine didn't have the Comp part#. It had the FMS part#.
It's the same cam though.

No problem other than lifter preload. I bought the Crane Adjustable Valvetrain Conversion kit and a set of new replacement springs.

The kit works great. I would recommend this for anyone with the non-adjustable valvetrain (stock). My motor always ran about 120 psi compression, even before the cam swap. After the cam swap I found a near dead cylinder.......#8. I thought I was had, until I did a leakdown test. I found that the intake valves on all cylinders were staying open......the pushrods were too long for the cam.

I could have bought some shims for the rockers but decided to go roller rockers (stud mount), thus the need for the conversion.

After converting to adjustable the compression was reading 150psi across the board. 30 psi more than when stock. The conversion ran about $80 from Summit and was a bolt on....no machine work.

 

90f150moneypit

are you talking about the generic "edelbrock performer" cam?

 

I don't think that cam will work with SD because of the lobe separation. Anything less than 114* can't produce enough vacuum with speed density and the PCM will go nuts (surging idle) trying to make it idle properly.

 

moneypit im going with the comp cam instead of the crower. just sounds like a better deal. although im not using roller rockers i want to keep the stock pedistal rockers. to keep the stock rockers and this comp cam do i need any special shim for the rockers? if so what is the part # for them and where can i get them. also what valve springs do you guys recomend?

 

Thats not entirely true in all cases. Take a look at crane compucams. I used to think the same thing, until I threw ideas back and forth with a custom cam provider.




1988fordf-150man


check out camresearchcorp.com they specialize in ford custom camshafts...they even have a process in which they can break in the cam for a fee, to save you some trouble, thats if your gonna stay flat tappet. supposedly a fella purchased a flat tappet cam w/t lifters and it was broken in for a total of $160, thats not bad but it may have been a while ago so the prices may have went up, might wanna check it out though, later

 

The cam I have is a FMS cam but the Edelbrock Performer and the Summit cam are exactly the same............and it DOES work.

You can buy shims from Summit. They are made by Crane.....Shim Kit

Summit also sells some from FMS for about the same price but they are the same kit.

 

well i was just looking at the comp cam on their web site and there is a complete list of all the valve train parts that match that cam. one thing i noticed though is that they has a listing for a set of pushrods to go with the cam. i looked them up and i noticed they are longer than the stock 302 pushrods. would that take care of the need for rocker shims?

 

No, don't buy longer than stock. It's actually the opposite of what you need. With the added lift of the cam and non adjustable valvetrain, the pushrods end up a little too long. The shims raise the rockers to alleviate the problem.

 

Didn't the 88's have roller rockers, or did that start in 89?

 

Lunati SD cams have 112 lobe seperation. Thats what i run and its a kick in the pants. No idle problems what so ever.