On this project I'm working on, there are a few spots that had some runs and orange peel. I'm using a single-stage Poly Urathane high gloss paint. I sand the runs down, using a sanding block with 1000 grit (lots of water) then move to 1500, and 2000, and still didn't get all of the orange peel out.

So, I move to buffing anyway. I am using a Miguires W-7000 marron cutting pad with Miguires Mirror Glaze 84, 9 out of 10 on the cut scale fluid.

I have a variable speed buffer but I dont know how fast to buff at. I turn it up to about number 2 out of 6, on the setting control and go at it.

Then after that I use a Miguires W-9000 Finishing Pad with mirror glaze Swirl Remover 2.0, 3 out of 10 on the cut scale. Same deal, turn up the buffer to about 2.

I'm not getting the shine like it should be. I can still see some orange peel so maybe I need to sand some more... but what about the shine? Am I missing any steps, wrong pads? Fluids? Or do I just need some more elbow greese in the sanding?

Thanks!

 

sound like you have the basics down . sanding block , grits of paper etc. as for the orange peal you might need to sand so more but be careful as to not sand through. as far as the shine goes you will lose the shine when you buff but it should have a nice gloss when it is done . i am going to be guessing here as i have not used the products that you are using. i would suggest asking the paint supplier where you bought the paint . for example some paints liked to be buffed out with a wool pad and other types the foam pad that you are using is fine. again your paint store should be able to tell you this . when i have buffed single stage paints i use a wool pad and 3ms perfectit 2 and have had some good results. but when i use 2 stage basecoat clearcoat type paints . i use 3m 1200 hookit dry on a finish sander then go over it with 3ms 3000 wet hookit. then buff with presta ultra cutting compound the i use presta 1500 polish ,then presta swirl remover and then hand glaze . when it is done all the swirl marks , spider webbing etc is gone . i know i have only touched on a few things but i hope this helps . take your time work at a pace that you are comfortable with and if you get the correct info from the paint store you should be fine . good luck

 

I agree with 1955EFFIE. Buffing will not remove orange peel. Only sanding will. Stop and check your progress often. As long as you have a plenty paint you should be in good shape. Meguiars is a fine product line and I use a lot of their stuff. But for defect removal I prefer the 3M line. I usually start out with 1000 grit to remove the run, orange peel, etc. Then I use 1500 grit to remove the 1000 grit scratches. Then I move on the the 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound to remove the 1500 grit scratches, and then I finish it up with the 3M Swirl Mark Remover to finish it off. I use just regular foam pads on an orbital buffer. I work the final polish until it dries. Yes, it's slow. But I get great results and I'm not a professional. I just do small areas (i.e a run, etc.). For more speed a rotary or DA polisher would help. But be careful. You can always buff a bit more if needed but once it's gone it's gone until it's resprayed. The key is to remove only what's needed and no more.

 

Good info guys. Pretty much what I'm doing now. What about the 2 compounds that I'm using? Is that enough? Heavy cut with cutting pad then light cut swirl remover with soft pad. What else should I be doing?

I've got plenty of paint, 5 thick coats. I agree I need to sand some more. But theres gotta be something else..... On the final I should buff until the compound is gone?

I talked to my local paint shop and they told me what RPM's to buff at, etc, but I don't know how fast my buffer is going due to the 1-6 adjustable ****. I need a tach for my buffer What about pressure? No pressure, medium pressure?

 

Ive done a little color sanding and from my experience NOTHING else will remove "orange peel" except wet-sanding and some patience. Ive used 600 grit if very rough surface, followed by 1000, then 1500, and then 2000....hell once I even finished with 6000 I believe! Normally you have to hit a good paint and body supply to get anything over 600 grit wet/dry paper though. Remember, the finer your wet/dry sandpaper......the less you will have to work that buffer later on. When I am beginning the sanding, I check progress quite often by rinsing the area down, then using my compressor to dry the surface, and then running one of "microfiber" cloths along the surface.....if I feel it draggin, it needs more sandin! Once I get the surface smooth with the 600, I then use the finer grains to take out the previous scratches from the coarser papers.

If you sand it down fine, I have "finished" it off using only polishing compound and then wax of my choice ( I use Wax Shop products normally, Safe Cut as the polishing compound and then Super Glaze as the final wax ). Of course you want to make sure the paint has "flashed" before doing any waxing...

Im by NO means a pro.....this is what I have thrown together and seems to work good for me

Hope that helps

 

That sounds about right to what I already do. That's good though because now I know I'm doing something right . I always tack rag it before doing any buffing so no dirt is getting swirled around, eek.

 

<cr>
My first suggstion is to go to the Miguires site. They have excellent support for their products. Tell them what you are doing and ask for their suggestion. This can all be done by email.

I don't know if your buffer is marked but mine has a small attached tag that reads something like, "1100 - 2500 rpm". That gives me a rough enough idea to figure out what the speed of the buffer is if I have set the adjustment dial to '4' or whatever.

Like 1955effie, I use Presta products for buffing. I seem to have less caking problems than I do with the 3m products. I'm not saying 3m isn't good. I just prefer Presta.

Wetsanding is the the only way to remove runs and orange peel.

Don't feel bad. Until people got the technique down, everyone has experienced the same problem you ar experiencing.

 

ceetwarrior
Sounds like you are moving in the right direction. I too have occasionally had some challenges with buffing and have contacted Meguiars directly - meguiars.com. They have forums similar to these and their technical staff are excellent at getting back with you and helping solve the challenge.

Hope this helps.

Russ

 

One problem is time! Urethane gets hard and if you don't cut and buff it within 30 hours after laying it on you work will get much harder. ou are going to have to start with a rougher grit paper and work your way finner then an agressive cutting compound and work finer. Be careful or you will cut through the clear.

 

Oh, I didn't even think about that one, Daimon! Sounds like I just need to do it some more.

Aekisu, RangerRuss, I'll have to check out their website and ask, good advice.

Thanks guys, I'll let ya know how it turns out. It'll probably take a few weeks until I work on the project, due to my new work schedule.