fordfuelinjection.com says:

327 - PFE or DPFE circuit below min voltage of 0.2 volts
328 - EVP circuit below min voltage of 0.24 volts

Whit is a PFE or DPFE and an EVP and what do I do to fix these problems?

 

What do you have for a truck? How does it run, bad fuel milage? I think the evp siliniod runs the egr valve and causes misses.

 

More info. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=299857

 

I have a 92 F-150, 4x4, I6, and auto E4OD. Thanks I was reading that thread the other day. I checked the vacuum at the EGR and there was none. I found it leaking but it was leaking from some other sensor. Here's what I did. The vacuum line to the EGR comes directly from below. The vacuum line first plugs into this black looking sensor (electrical) with a double rubber plug and branches off to the EGR. When I'd blow air through the line I'd hear it leaking from that sensor. This sensor is clipped onto a heat shield that's screwed onto the head. Anyway, I unplugged the double rubber plug and plugged both vacuums with my fingers and tried to blow air throught it. I couldn't so I knew the air was leaking from that sensor. I then connected one of the vacuum lines to the sensor at a time to see if I could figure out what was wrong. When I blew some air into it I heard a mild diaphram sounding clunk in that sensor. I don't know what this thing is but I think I unstuck something in it. I hooked the lines back up and restarted the car and had vacuum at the EGR. Now at slow idle there is almost no vacuum and when I rev it up there's more. Is that how it is supposed to be? And do you have any idea what this sensor is?

 

Normal EGR control should result in very little to no vacuum at idle, with vacuum increasing with RPM. Yours appears to be working as it should.

The "sensor" you describe is probably the EVR (egr vacuum regulator). It opens and closes electrically under control of the engine computer in order to control the amount of vacuum applied to the EGR valve. It should receive manifold vacuum as an input, and provide regulated vacuum as an output direct to the EGR valve.

It is very likely normal for the EVR to "leak" when you pressurize its output line with shop air. The EVR will need to release vacuum from the EGR valve from time to time, and in so doing needs to vent the line to the atmosphere to avoid holding the valve open.

 

Thanks guys. Over the past 2-3 days the check eingine light came on just about every time I drove the car. After doing what I said I did the light didn't come on last night. I thought I was a truck Einstein. Then it came on this morning so I guess I'm not. I'm thinking you're right fefarms. That the EVR works correctly.

And Mike, I do get poor gas mileage. The engine runs pretty smooth. It jumps a little. But here's the kicker. I just bought it and I've had it a week now. Every morning that I've started it, it starts, idles real high then as it slows down it dies. The second turn of the ignition it starts right up and runs great.

You guys think that I just replace the EGR?

One other thing, how do I clear the codes?

 

Well, Check engine light came on again. I put in new plugs. Truck runs smoother. Old plugs were burnt up. Not black but the electrode metal was partially gone. Drove the truck around and got no check engine light. I put a vacuum on the EGR and it does hold a vacuum. I then started the engine and put a vacuum gauge on the EGR vacuum supply line. There's no vacuum at idle and it increases to about 7 in. Hg when I rev it. Is this about right? I used a small nut pick to move the EGR. It moves fine. Wit the vacuum supply line connected and I reve the engine the EGR tries to move but then stops. I never see the diaphram in action. What's going on here. Everything seems to work fine when tested individually but not together. Can it be that the EGR is crusted and just too hard to move with vacuum? It didn't feel encrusted. It just felt like it had a tight spring load on it.

 

Check engine light doesn't come one anymore since I put in new plugs. Why would that have been the problem?

 

I think that the EGR should be fully open at 6-8 in vacuum. If it doesn't open enough it should throw a code.

All of the troubleshooting guides say to do basic checks first, that would include spark plugs.

Does your truck ping under a load? That would result from inadequate EGR opening and result in eroded plugs.

 

No pinging. It runs real smooth now. It ran pretty smooth before with some jittering. I tried taking off the EGR lastnight to get a look at it but I could not get the EG pipe undone. Are the threads normal right handed threads? I kept squirting it with WD-40 and putting a wrench on it and hitting it with a hammer off and on while doing other things. But I still couldn't get it off. Think I need a new EGR valve?

 

I don't think I would mess with the EGR much if there are no problems with it.

Did you clear the codes? Just unhook the battery for a few minutes.

If you apply vacuum to the EGR with the engine idling it should run rough or die. That will let you know that the EGR is not plugged.

If it is running good and the CEL doesn't light up I would just drive it some and see if your mileage is ok.

 

I'm gonna clear the codes tonight. My MPG after the first tank of gas is 12. I didn't think that was all that bad with the bad plugs. I had an carbuerated 81 F100 with the same engine and got about 17 MPG. I just figured this truck should get better than that being newer and more sophisticated and all.

I didn't apply vacuum at idle but I manually moved the EGR and it did run rough and almost died.

Here's the other thing I did. I laid across the engine compartment with the engine running and revved the engine by hand and the EGR didn't move. It looked like it tried to move and then it fell back. But I don't know if that is normal operation or not. I was getting the CEL at least once everytime I drove the truck. I've driven it twice since changing the plugs and no CEL. What's your diagnosis doc?

 

I think you need a long downhill with a tailwind to keep up that 17mpg.

EGR is designed to work under a load. I wouldn't worry that is doesn't move while sitting in the driveway.

MPG is more a function of weight and drag than it is of engine size. It takes as many lbs of fuel to make 50HP in an I6 as it does in a V8. Many myths on this subject, don't really want to get into it.

 

Clear the codes and check your codes again and post them. Sounds like mpg is ok. Add some water remover and fuel injection cleaner then wait a while. my 2 cents

 

Lastnight I cleared the codes. I also changed the distributor cap and rotor. The center terminal on the distributor cap was burnt. It was all black and misshapen. The wire plugging into it is about the same. I think that it wasn't tight and it was arcing a lot. When I pulled the wire off a bunch of black dust fell out. Looked like brake dust. I think I'll get another set of wires. Starts like a champ now even on the cold mornings. I also replaced the fuel filter. I don't get the intermittent CEL any longer. I guess all it needed was a tune up.

Anyone know where I can get a set of the stock Motorcraft wires that have the cylinder numbers printed on them and are the correct lengths other than a Ford dealer?