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I need to do some maintainance on the rear window mechanism and the defogger is getting power but not working. Hence, I need to get the window up with the tailgate down. I tried slamming the drivers side latch on the tailgate shut but it still doesnt go up. Is there a specific way to do it that I have missed in the previous posts? Or can I access the switch that's in there and jumper it somehow with the glass down (obviously)??
Open the gate and manually close the tailgate latch on the drivers side while it is in the down position. This will bypass/fool the switch and allow you to raise and lower window with the key or dash switch.
I forgot to mention to use care to support the window while it is fully extended with the gate open and it is very important to unlatch the the drivers side using the tailgate handle prior to closing the tailgate.
Tom I hope this helps you I found it on the web...
A common problem for older Broncos is for the tailgate window lift mechanism to fail. This fix is for when the window stops moving.
Lower window by pushing it or through access plate.
Open tailgate.
Remove access panel (if not done in step 1), access panel support, and water shield (paper).
Move window to 1/2 open position.
Remove 4 nuts (2 on each side) that connect the glass bracket to regulator assembly "C" channel.
Slide glass all the way out (cannot be removed due to glass brackets).
Stack boxes or something to support glass.
Unplug wiring harness to motor.
Remove 4 bolts (2 on each side) that hold motor and regulator assembly to tailgate.
If you have outside spare tire mount, the 3 mount latch retaining bolts must be loosened.
The motor and regulator assembly can now be slid towards the driver's side and lifted out.
Remove 3 bolts and 1 screw (under large gear - align access hole) holding motor to regulator assembly.
Remove motor and then gear cover plate from motor.
Remove center steel gear.
Remove white plastic gear and clean out all pieces of original torque pins. <CENTER></CENTER>
Make 3 new spacers out of ~1/2" O.D. rubber tubing. This provides the cushion against sudden starts of the motor. Fill the interior of the tubing with solid rod of appropriate size. The rod gives rigidity to the spacers.
Other list members have said that replacement torque pins ($3 each) and well as rebuild kits ($15) are available from parts stores. Ford dealers sell the assembly for about $70. See 2 letters below for more info.
Reassemble the plastic gear, metal gear and spacers with plenty of grease. The old grease looked like wheel bearing grease.
Grease and install this assembly in the motor housing.
Reinstall gear cover plate, and motor to regulator assembly.
Replace motor and regulator assembly in tailgate. Watch the wiring harness, it is easily pinched.
Clean and regrease the channel before reattaching "C" channel to glass bracket. This will make for smoother and quieter window operation.
Before replacing access panel and support, don't forget to reattach the wiring harness. :-)
Note:
Window regulator assembly has a strong helper spring. If the regulator arms are not against the stops they could snap there at any time causing injury and damage. Be careful.
The window operates just fine, the problem is that I cannot seem to trick the window to roll up with the tailgate down. I want to fix the rear defogger and do some routine maintainance, lube etc. I closed the driver's side latch (i think) but notta. I am just not sure what it's supposed to lok like when it (the latch) is "closed."
The two "jaws" of the latch should form a circle when the latch is fully closed. Think of it as though the striker bolt was trapped in the latch. The only way to hold onto a round strker bolt is to make a circular collar with the latch. With the latch jaws set so they form a circular hole between them the latch is fully closed. You may have to start by pushing both jaws at the same time as one closing sometimes releases the other.
good advice by all you guys. Yes simply clicking the latches on both sides (they click twice-sometimes due to tension you can only click one side at a time then back and forth until they click twice).
I have a problem on mine maybe you guys can solve? ('82) Everything works but the arms occasionally snap out of the little plastic runners that live in the tracks. One is broken but they both tend to pop out whenevr i hit a bump in the road. I have opened it and fixed it MANY times but i cannot figure out what i can do for a permanent fix. Makes me think that there is some sort of guide missing that keeps the window at a certain angle when it is in the closed position???
I wouldn't go quite that far Dave but thanks for the vote of confidence.
gsktt,
Do the carriers at the end of the regulator arms pop out of the window track no matter what position the window is on or is it an "only up" or "only down" situation?
Hey Greystreak...i can't really answer that question 100%. It seems to be when the window is up...as an example i was driving home last week and suddenly felt a cold breeze...i looked back and the window had dropped halfway down and tilted...then bam, it dropped all the way. That was the first time both sides came out at the same time. I have had it happen when the window was partly down also.
Basically the 'nipple' on the regulator arm pops out of the small plastic retainer in the track. I would give anything for a basic truck canopy with a built in window and a lighter tailgate!!!
Ok, so to reiterate for my own edification, the plastic carriers pop off the arms of the regulator. Should be a ball-and-socket type setup as I recall. You might try replacing the carriers. Don't know if they are available new but you may be able to find a good used set. Sounds like maybe they are just old and wont stay snapped over the ball on the regulator arm. Another possibility is a poor window alignment. Do you have problems with the window slowing down as it travels up or down? Either way, you may want to check the window travel in the guides at either side of the gate. There isn't much adjustment (maybe 1/8" either direction) but the guides are adjustable so that the window doesn't bind against them. Could be that the window is still travelling but the angle its ending up at when closed or partially close is enough to pull the bottom of the glass away from the regulator arms just enough to cause undue stress on the carriers and their mounting *****. I know it may be a long shot but its about the best I can do sight unseen.