chris, yeah i thats what i used. and yes i did cut the holes. it wasnt thover the existing hole and cut it out with a utility knife, cut through the plastic like butter.
i mounted the switches about half an inch undr the door handle. ill post the pictures on soon.

 

Chris: I am new to the site and love it already. Just purchased my STX for the same reasons. Thanks for the information about the locks and windows I am about ready to takle this project shortly and your information is greatly appreciated. Thought that the door panels popped off and I am glad I read your article.

 

Hi, Bobr, thanks for the kind words, hope you have as good a luck with your truck as I have with mine. Four months now and I like it better than when I bought it. Happy modin'.
Chris

 

Looking good Chris. I bought my STX for the same reasons. The price was right, and I really wanted to mod it myself. So far I've added the power windows, custom built center console, power locks will be next. I got my hands on an FX4 instrument cluster and vents and will be putting them in this weekend.

 

Hi, 75Player. The FX4 cluster sure looks better than the stock one. I installed mine without the gray faceplate, using the 'dome' off my original IP. I like being able to read the dials from the passenger side, with the gray faceplate, it was not easy. Both domes look good. (dome is a word I'm using for the plastic clear thing that clips onto the bare IP.)
One thing to watch, the dial on my speedo was off a little on the new IP. Not the CAN info from the PCM, the actual needle.
With the stock speedo, it read 3 miles faster than the CAN reported through my scan gauge. The new one reads 5 miles faster than the CAN reports.
Since I changed the tire size slightly, 30.6 inchs not 30.0, the speedo is only 1.8 miles faster than my GPS reports, but the CAN reading is 3.2 slower.

Example, At a true speed of 70 reported by my GPS
The FX4 speedo reports that I am doing 72.
The Scangauge reading the CAN says 67.
With my original Speedo it would have read 70.
Interesting that changing the tires from stock to slightly higher would actually correct the error that the factory shipped it with.
Oh well, tinkering is half the fun.
Chris

 

Chris, I'd like details on the vacuum gauge. Like brand, installation location on the intake and where you put the actual gauge.

 

Hi, I've added a couple of shots to my gallery.
I installed an AutoMeter Vacuum gauge, and mount in October. I taped vacuum from the intake.






The three buttons next to the Vacuum gauge are for the Homelink gate and garage door opener I installed in December.

On the vacuum gauge, I went with a 2 5/8 gauge, with a silver rim, that matches the rim on my Kenwood stereo, and the centers of the Lariat air vents.
This gauge size is really too big to put on the pillars as it would interfere with the drivers view. Not lawful in California. I like the vacuum gauge because you notice the amount of throttle you are applying in real time. It reacts instantly to your foot feed. They used to be optional equipment in many cars. Usually called mileage monitors. My wife also uses it to be sure the motor is running. Since I added the FX4 panel with tach, it is not as handy. Still like it though.

 

Hey Chris, when you installed the FX4 cluster, did the tach work? That's a question that has been nagging at me. I know that most vehicles are usually wired for all the options, but after my 98 Mustang, I don't take anything for granted.

 

Complicated question. The Tach, gauges, etc. worked fine. The job takes about twenty minutes, mostly because I disconnected the battery. I hate power surges damaging things.

Then comes the hard part. Your door chimes, headlight chimes, and automatic domelight don't work. You have to take it to a dealer that knows how to program your PCM to recognise the new dash. Not for the Tach etc. but for the buzzer type things. To have mine done cost 85 bucks. Two dealerships offered to swap out the IP, and program it for 170 bucks. Since it was a quick job, I opted to do the swap, then have them program. I gave them the old IP at the time I dropped the truck off, but don't know if they used it for anything. Book says they have to get info from it. I don't know, neither did the service writer. They either didn't use it, or they used it and replaced it in the box I left it in in the cab.

The dealerships can not set your mileage. I had to send it to a place back east where they matched my mileage before hand. I had them set it a bit high, then waited till the numbers were really close before doing the swap. I think I 'lost' about 50 miles on my warranty.
Hope this helps,
Chris

 

Hey Chris.
I've got almost exactly the same truck as you - '04 STX silver with FoldaCover, ScanGauge, (soon to have power mirrors, windows, locks). SuperCab though.

Anyway, I've got 2 questions for you please:
1- How did you remove the dash panel at the a/c,stereo? The posts here say to pull up on the btm right and left corners, but they refer to different models with the different dash. It doesn't seem to work with ours, or at least I don't think I should be pulling that hard on plastic. I want to retrofit the cigarette lighter panel for the Scangauge.

2- Regarding plugging in the wiring for the door harness, what did you have to do to hook up to the main harness, or did you hook up directly to the fuse box at the drivers kickpanel?

Thanks in advance!

 

Hi, s4-916
From one of my posts
If you have a column shift model, removing the radio is a snap. Pop open the drink holder, reach under and up, and gently but firmly unsnap the surround piece. The cig lighter, climate control, stay with the surround. Have a couple of hand towels to use to prevent scrapes when you pull the surround forward and let it dangle. It has eight very firm clips on it. they are sharp, and will cut you, or scrape something if they can. Use needle nose pliers to remove any of these white clips that stick in the dash after you pull the surround off. push them back on the surround before you press it back on. when putting it back, start with the top, and press in it. I use a bungee from the rear view mirror if I'm going to be working in the hole much. the surround hangs there nicely, leaving you enough room to remove the radio (4 screws, gently pull out the harness, and the antenna. note there is a black rubber nub on the back to center and support the radio. unscrew it if you have to transfer it.
pretty easy, except the clips are very firm the first time.

The first time I removed it I used a small wide piece of metal (actually the head of a small flat key) to pry around the top, taking a long time to work it free. After the first time, it’s easier to start by the bottom pulling method.

These eight white clips are REALLY on there.

I ran the primary wire for the windows, and other stuff straight from the battery. I used a relay over by the fuse box to turn the main power on when the key is on. I wanted my windows to only be ‘hot’ when the key was on. My window switches have built in lights, and I didn’t wish to leave them on all the time.

On using relays, this site is great.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KMzTx9K...ech/kb326.html

Converting A Positive Trigger To A Higher Current Positive Output

Chris

 

has anyone tried installing one of these crimestopper systems with just the keyless entry system. i do not want alarm features, just unlock and lock doors with remote?


Thanks in advance

 

Hi bluegrasmtns, You must have missed that part of my post. I just installed the crimestoppers keyless remote. Not the alarm.
I did put one with the alarm in my Tracker.
The non-alarm was cheaper, easier to install, and works quite well. I did add a siren to it, rather than cut into the stock horn wiring, to make it chirp.
I also wired the tailgate lock to it. Then added the fourth lock actuator that unlocks my Fold-a-Cover front panel when I push the trunk button.
Love it, and use it every day.
Hope this helps,
Chris

 

I thought I bought the keyless remote, but what they sent has an active alarm, the CS200 Remote Control Alarm System, but bought this on ebay

ebay item number=5747362590

i guess it's just a generic version that hopefully i can just install the remote keyless portion of. Did you just wire power, ground and the two switch wires going to the actuators?

The actuator part was really simple and works pretty well. I am happy with that part.

 

bluegrasmtns, you lost me a little, the ebay number you posted goes to the exact kit, from the same supplier, that I bought from. Did they misship?
The alarm is more expensive, but you have to add two relays to use it. cost about nothing at a pick-a-part, 7.00-10.00 each at local autoparts.
With the keyless, it supplys all the power for the two-four door locks. with the alarm, which you can use the same way, you add the relays as the alarm won't handle the current.
you don't use the small module that comes with the locks. Wasted a day trying. Don't need it anyway.
Just as you say, use two wires only from the door lockers.
M&S has never screwed up my orders, hope you get it straightend out.
Chris