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They also make the Detroit Electrac for the D60, both 30 and 35 spline. That was my original plan before this forum corrupted me and stuck a D70 under my truck.
Don't blame us for corrupting you, from what I seen you do most of the corruptin around here
I have the ARB in a 44 with 38.5 never had a problem. A bonus with the ARB is you have a air compressor that you can hook an air tank to for airing up tires. I would buy the braided steel lines for it, they are a little stronger then the blue plastic ones.
TracTech Electrac for Ford 10.25"/10.50" 35 spline, Reider Racing p/n- 915A493.
Electrac for Dana 60 front 35 spline, p/n- 915A510. www.reiderracing.com
I've run ARBs in my D60 for six years and never had a o-ring failure. I did have a failure in my D44 ARB o-ring. I checked with Arb when I had the failure and they said the bad o-rings have been fixed and that was 4 years ago. I run D60 ARBs front and rear and love them. Do an on-board air system to run the ARBs and fill tires, run tools and if your creative you can use the air with a die grinder to run a blender to use around the campfire
Thing is with the air lockers is that if a seal goes out you're stuck with an open diff until you get a new seal. The electrics have a panel you can pull in case of failure and select either spooled or open.
Keep in mind that the Detroit Electrac is based on the TrueCrap which limits it to 33 tires. The worm gears are wormy. I just stripped some wormy gears in a front d44 ttb. Thats just weak.
The chances of a ARB seal going bad is slim. If by chance the seal did go bad at least you still have 1 tire going, your not totally stuck. Lool at it this way if your motor dies or you brake a transfer case in half (seen it happen) your really stuck. That's why you always wheel with friends to help you or for you to help them.
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