Found many threads on drywall and how to install the tape and I have that part down, but the type of tape is not clearly explained.

The self-adhesive tape saves alot of time, but is it as strong as the paper tape? I want this to last the rest of my life...

 

I have used both types, but prefer the fiberglas reinforced mesh tape for ease of application. I have done many drywall projects over the years and have had no seem failures with either product.

 

go with the mesh tape. its a lot easier to install, and its easier to make it look good. to me the mesh seems better in that the joint compound gets into all the mesh area and i would think it has a much stronger bond than using flat paper.

 

I have done alot of around the house dry wall jobs since 1980. The paper tape you need to wet it first, for that reason i don't use it any more. The only thing you will need to maybe redo is a few screws that poped out and maybe a few corners. I never saw a seam crack with eather tapes. Mudding sheetrock is one of the hardest jobs in carpentry. Find all the tips you can, also see www.DIY.com for more tips. Use black screen sanding paper with a handle. They have them at walmart. Sandpaper is a big pain and a waist of money for this job. Tape from top to bottom. Get a box of latex gloves, it helps. Get a bright light. Try to do four thin coats with a day of sanding between. This will take a long time ( three weeks ) don't rush it you will see it after you paint it. I like to do the screw holes one day. One coat of mud for seems the next day. Sand everything on third day and add second coat on everything. Sand then add third coat. Sand then add forth coat. Get a corner trowel. Lift the sheetrock to the ceiling, that way you can mud to the ceiling and you can skip the ceiling trim for now. They sell bits that go in a regular drill that counter sinks the screws. Use a level to plumb ( up and down) each peice. Start in the middle of the wall, sometimes helps if the corner are not plumb. Sorry I went on and on i love to sheetrock.

 

Thanks, guys. It looks like the self-adhesive mesh tape is winning so far.

Mike - good advice. I'm not really looking forward to doing this, but I've done it all so far - why stop now.

 

Speaking as a trim carpenter, I have never seen any of our tapers use anything but standard joint tape. If the drywall installation is done correctly, as well as the tapeing, there should not be a visible seam. When I do private jobs in the evenings I also use the standard tape. There are a couple things to consider other than tape, to make it a successful and easy install. First, always do a first coat with a heavier weight mud. If you buy USG it is the green containers. For a second coat the choice if yours, you can use the heavier weight again or you can switch to a lighter weight all-pupose mud. In USG it is the dark blue containers. If a third coat is needed you can use the mud from the dark blue container or you can also purchase a topping compound. Which is specifically deisgned for a smoother finish and less sanding. In USG it is the light blue containers. I personally do one coat of each and have never had a problem. Hope this helps...

Best of Luck,
Corey

Note: All USG containers and lids are #2 plastic and fully recyclable. All you have to do is hose out the inside. Something to think about (keep in mind these figures are from 2001) a company can recycle 1000lbs. of plastic stock for $.02. The average new container and lid from non-recycled stock, costs packing companies about $3 for a 5gal. Do you realize how much prices would drop if all of the containers went back to the manufacturer???

 

When setting the tape, use a 4-5" blade for the initial pass, when its dry level things out with an 8" blade and on the final wipe use a wide blade (12"). You will have very little sanding on the flat seems. The biggest mistake most people make is not putting enough mud on the wall.

 

Corey, thanks. But, to a novice such as myself, the mesh tape is so much faster and easier. Would it be just as good?

Don't pull your punches - tell me how the cow eat the corn.

And as far as the USG green and blue - Got it. Thanks, again.

 

NOW! That's what I need to hear!
Thanks, Huntsman

 

Good point, 3 bucks wow! I save all my buckets. I wounder if taping contractor don't use adhesive tape is because it would not work with there tape guns. With the tape guns you don't need water, just mud. You are right I have never seen contractors use anything but reg tape, and the seems are perfect with both kides of tape. Do the guys you work with use the tapping guns? I have never use one.

 

All,
I've never heard of adhesive tape for drywalling?
If you have to put mud down first, it not going to help if the tape is sticky or not?
I've hung with some real pros over the years and have never seen adhesive tape. This leads me to believe that adhesive tape is not a professional product and may not render a professional result.
Maybe I'm just old school.
Word,
KingFisher

 

Glad you showed up, Kingfisher (were your ears burning - I was just using your famous lines in the Super Duty forum).

It has been approved by ASTM as long as it's fiberglass. You just stick it directly to the drywall at the joint - no mud. Then go over it with the initial coat as usual. From the old school guys they say the paper is stronger. That's why I started this thread.

 

All of the drywall contractors I know use the paper, put on a thin layer of mud, followed by the tape, squeeze it on, then another thin layer, let set up etc. Some of the Home Imp. stores sell a drywall sander that hooks up to your shop vac, it is a little more effort than a pole sander but it cuts down on dust. It takes time, and don't put too much mud on (more sanding needed) Good luck, George

 

I've always thought the fiberglass tape was for repairs and spots where cracks are a problem. If I remember correctly the fiberglass tape is more expensive, something a contractor would not like.

 

Yea - I think that's what the older guys were trying to get at, but if you don't use mud to install them, then slap on the mud to fill the factory butts, then wouldn't you cut down on one complete coating of mud.

I am brand new to this - as you can tell.