More E4OD questions.......
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Joined: Aug 2004
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More E4OD questions.......
i'm having the classic shifting problems with my tranny, late shifting, early lock-up, and sometimes blinking OD light "limp mode". when the problems aren't there, it shifts wonderfully, but when they show up it's sooooo frustrating. i've already replaced the VSS, ran perfect for a day, and then the problems came right back. i'm tempted to just give it to a tranny shop to diagnose it, but is there anything else i can/should do myself first (replacing wiring/sensors etc.)? i'm new to this tranny and would appreciate any guidence. thanks all......
92 e-350 7.3L
92 e-350 7.3L
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
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Yesterday I almost tossed in the towel on my E4OD...
Then I told myself to calm down and I cleaned the VSS sensor again (30th time). My late shifting is gone, no wild TC lock ups, and no OD light flashing anymore. Oh yeah, my speedo is back instead of bucking all around again.
I had replaced the VSS sensor a few months back (do a search) when it crumbled apart in my hands.
I had priced out a TC to replace my current one, as I was getting ALOT of code 62. Pull the VSS and clean the crud off. Try it after that (and clear the codes too).
That brings me to MY question...
How the heck do you COMPLETLY flush the rear diff. I have changed the fluid twice now at about 60 bucks a pop only to find that the VSS still collects all the crud and small metal particles that keep showing up. I have dried the diff totally to remove the fluid and particles.
Am I stuck cleaning the VSS every couple days forever to ensure good shifting for this E4OD???
Then I told myself to calm down and I cleaned the VSS sensor again (30th time). My late shifting is gone, no wild TC lock ups, and no OD light flashing anymore. Oh yeah, my speedo is back instead of bucking all around again.
I had replaced the VSS sensor a few months back (do a search) when it crumbled apart in my hands.
I had priced out a TC to replace my current one, as I was getting ALOT of code 62. Pull the VSS and clean the crud off. Try it after that (and clear the codes too).
That brings me to MY question...
How the heck do you COMPLETLY flush the rear diff. I have changed the fluid twice now at about 60 bucks a pop only to find that the VSS still collects all the crud and small metal particles that keep showing up. I have dried the diff totally to remove the fluid and particles.
Am I stuck cleaning the VSS every couple days forever to ensure good shifting for this E4OD???
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
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How are you getting codes out of it? I tried to get it to flash the codes through the OD light on the gear shift per instructions in the Ford Manual but no luck. My OD light blinks all the time and it seems to be in limp mode. The basic procedure I followed was to warm up the engine, turn it off, put a jumper in as described in the manual (I dont remember the name of the pins, but it was the top right one in the big connector to the small connector) then I turned the key on while depressing the throttle fully. I got no codes what so ever. ?? any ideas?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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What year is your truck?
On the '94 the EEC test plug is located in the engine compartment, drivers side near the fire wall.
You will see a bunch of harnesses in that area (on the fender wall between the brake stuff).
I have not checked, but on a '91 I read that the same harness is located under the drivers side inside the cab...
Check the fordfuelinjection.com website for codes
On the '94 the EEC test plug is located in the engine compartment, drivers side near the fire wall.
You will see a bunch of harnesses in that area (on the fender wall between the brake stuff).
I have not checked, but on a '91 I read that the same harness is located under the drivers side inside the cab...
Check the fordfuelinjection.com website for codes
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
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Mine is a 1994. I found the Test plug, which is where I tried to jump the two pins as described in my service manual. The problems is no codes flashed when I followed the service manual for KOEO and KOER tests. I am pretty sure there should be a code though because the OD light flashes whenever the engine is running. I will mess with it tomorrow and take some pics if it doesn't work out well. Thanks for the reply. 
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 300
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I looked at the site which had pics of the connectors with the pin names. The ford manual said to jump the sig return to the STI, turn the key on, floor the throttle and watch for codes. I did this and had no luck. I may try it as suggested at the fordinjection site and just ground the STI to the - bat terminal.
thanks
josh
thanks
josh
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 155
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When you flush the rear diff, put a big magnet or two in the bottom and on the cover to get the trash before the VSS gets it. In order to completely flush it, you need a parts washer that works on air and a lot of patience. You have to literally use solvent and wash the whole thing like you were going to rebuild it. Then use magnets in the bottom to catch all the debris while you are washing it out. Otherwise the fuzz will collect on the housing and go right back into the oil.
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Yeah, I noticed there was a really good spot to put a magnet or two at the bottom of teh rear diff as well.
After I closed it up, of course....
To read codes on my 94 I simply do the following...
1 - hook wire from the little grey single connector (STI) to the neg on the battery.
2 - Connect my handy dandy test light from the positive terminal on the bat to the EEC tester plug. - I just poke the tip of the tester into the plug. On my EEC plug end, there is only 2 wires that go into it. Hard to describe the terminal I use, it is close to the long tapered end of the harness.
3 - KOEO and watch my test light flash.
4 - to clear the codes (and reset the OD flashing light) I run the test again, and pull thewire on the negative battery terminal to the STI connector.
Strange, ever since I flushed the diff and cleaned the crap off teh VSS, it seems like I been driving a caddy as far as the shifting goes...
smooth, clean, great. No bronco shifting.
After I closed it up, of course....
To read codes on my 94 I simply do the following...
1 - hook wire from the little grey single connector (STI) to the neg on the battery.
2 - Connect my handy dandy test light from the positive terminal on the bat to the EEC tester plug. - I just poke the tip of the tester into the plug. On my EEC plug end, there is only 2 wires that go into it. Hard to describe the terminal I use, it is close to the long tapered end of the harness.
3 - KOEO and watch my test light flash.
4 - to clear the codes (and reset the OD flashing light) I run the test again, and pull thewire on the negative battery terminal to the STI connector.
Strange, ever since I flushed the diff and cleaned the crap off teh VSS, it seems like I been driving a caddy as far as the shifting goes...
smooth, clean, great. No bronco shifting.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
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I checked my codes using the IronPants methoud, worked great. I had a code 62 which means the computer thought the trans was slipping. I suspect this is due to something other than slippage because the light started flashing while I was costing to a stop and I have never felt it slip. I cleared the codes and have driven 80 miles so far so good. jvc100 you may have a trouble code in the computer which is causing the trans to go into limp mode, where it increases line pressure and causes harsh shifts.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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When I get the code 62, I have found that the VSS is covered with metal garbage. In the past, I just cleared the codes and kept going. However I noticed that the time between codes was decreasing.
After cleaning the VSS from the trash, I can increase the distance I travel before getting a code 62.
Also, I can increase the frequency of a code 62 and make a code 67 occur if I don't have my TPS in the 'sweet spot'. I have played with the TPS in the idle voltage range from 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and finally 1.4.
When I have the idle voltage at anything above 1.2 I get some code 67s...
Thank goodness for this website, or I would have replaced the whole tranny months ago... Instead some investigation and alot of repetative effort and I got my primary vehicle operating like a dream most times.
Heater core blew out on Monday, so it still can be a nitemare. Tough to drive when the cab is loaded with antifreeze mist....
After cleaning the VSS from the trash, I can increase the distance I travel before getting a code 62.
Also, I can increase the frequency of a code 62 and make a code 67 occur if I don't have my TPS in the 'sweet spot'. I have played with the TPS in the idle voltage range from 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and finally 1.4.
When I have the idle voltage at anything above 1.2 I get some code 67s...
Thank goodness for this website, or I would have replaced the whole tranny months ago... Instead some investigation and alot of repetative effort and I got my primary vehicle operating like a dream most times.
Heater core blew out on Monday, so it still can be a nitemare. Tough to drive when the cab is loaded with antifreeze mist....
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