Pulling Seized 5.8L
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Pulling Seized 5.8L
Hi all;
I'm in the process of pulling the seized-by-the-previous-owner 5.8L from my '93 E150. Since the engine is stuck, I can't turn it over to get at all the bolts that fasten the torque converter to the flex plate. Will I be able to pull the engine with the TC attached? Or will I have to drop the transmission first?Pete
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I'd pull the trans. I was helping a guy pull a 351 out of a car and we broke the trans case pulling it out of the trans. the input shaft was still somehow engaged when the bell separated, and the engine got a little angle on it and crunch.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Since you pretty much have to remove (but not quite) the engine to remove the pan, I'd remove the trannny first. If it's the cam and/or valve train that's stuck, it might make sense to pull the timing chain though. Hmmmmm what is it that likely stuck if it was run out of oil? Pistons in bores? Rods on Crank?
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Thanks Mustang, I might do that. But a friend of a friend of mine who runs a tranny shop said that the TC should slide off the input shaft no problems. I think that pulling the engine out the front, rather than up, may actually be an advantage! 
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Im not familiar with the 93 frame but earlier ones werent that complicated unless you had AC.
Running out of oil will seize a rod bearing first usually. In extreme cases it will twist a rod and throw it thru the side of the block.
If you remove the tranny be extremely careful not to bump the converter. Reinstalling can also be touchy.
Running out of oil will seize a rod bearing first usually. In extreme cases it will twist a rod and throw it thru the side of the block.
If you remove the tranny be extremely careful not to bump the converter. Reinstalling can also be touchy.
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Hi all;
Just wanted to give an update on pulling the seized 5.8L . Got it out on Saturday. I didn't have to drop the transmission, but I did pull off the LHS exhaust manifold, and had to remove the LHS motor mount. (I probably wouldn't have had to pull off the manifold if I had removed the motor mount first.) It dribbled about a 1/4 cup of tranny fluid, but no more. I couldn't use a chain across the lifting eyes because the enigine hoist I had borrowed was too high at the back (hence the boom had to be at a steep downward angle), to get the lift I required. So I made up a lifting bracket that attached to the intake manifold, which worked really well. (someone posted some pictures of a couple of commercially available ones on this forum, whoever that was, thanks a bunch! It was a big help) A good (hopefully) used 5.8L is sitting on the loading dock of one of the local shipping companies, will pick it up today.
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Glad to hear it went easy for you.
Now is the time to drain the converter.
When installing the new engine leave both exhaust manifolds off. It is much easier to use 2 people to get the engine and converter mated; one under the vehicle and the other on the hoist. This step is very critical in order to not damage the converter; just go slow and easy. Hopefully you also have a jack under the tranny pan with a decent size piece of wood spreading the load; when installing sometimes just a slight tweak is very helpful in the alignment process.
Once you get them mated then you can hoist it all up enough to place the mounts.
Now is the time to drain the converter.
When installing the new engine leave both exhaust manifolds off. It is much easier to use 2 people to get the engine and converter mated; one under the vehicle and the other on the hoist. This step is very critical in order to not damage the converter; just go slow and easy. Hopefully you also have a jack under the tranny pan with a decent size piece of wood spreading the load; when installing sometimes just a slight tweak is very helpful in the alignment process.
Once you get them mated then you can hoist it all up enough to place the mounts.
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