Replacing an alternator
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Replacing an alternator
My alternator on the 79 F150(302/C6) appears to have pushed it's last amp, could anyone recommend a good source for a replacement, outside of a local yard? Is it difficult to replace, in your opinion? Also, what is a reasonable price? Thanks.
Last edited by dommer; Oct 31, 2004 at 05:43 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: Montana Territory
Any parts store will have one, they run $35-$45. They are really easy to do. Get a Westling alternator if you can, and they will offer two amperages, 42 and 60 amp. If you can afford it and they have it available, get the 60 amp.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
NAPA sells a great replacement unit, and may even offer a 75 amp version that should bolt right on. I'd go for at least the 60 amp, but the 75 amp is better, although it may require the one wire conversion.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
if you go to a 65 amp or 75 amp it is not reccomended as it can fry the voltage regulator if you want kragen has the best you can buy a stock one for 17.99 can't beat it and they are good quality
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I replaced mine last week on a 400, in 30 mins off and on with the new in a parking lot of a grocery store. 9/16 on the adjuster and 11/16 on the long bolt to the motor for me. Only challenge pulling the long bolt out fan blade in the way. Bumped it once and the fan was clear.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Brentwood,CA
a alt change takes no more than 5 mins tops simple once you do it a few times you can do it like second nature
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Post Fiend
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From: Montana Territory
Carquest sells westling alternators... Napa alternators are pretty good too, I'm not sure of their rebuilders, but they are of good quality.
I would stay away from any kind of alternator that Checker/Schucks/Kragen has to offer, they are junk and you will be replacing it in three months.
You should replace your voltage regulator as well, its cheap, and they often go bad and fry the alternator. part number is VR166
I would stay away from any kind of alternator that Checker/Schucks/Kragen has to offer, they are junk and you will be replacing it in three months.
You should replace your voltage regulator as well, its cheap, and they often go bad and fry the alternator. part number is VR166
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Well, replaced the voltage regulator, I went to get an alternator (for 30 bucks, I dont mind swapping it just to get the experience of doing it, that's part of my motivation for owning this truck, to learn about working on cars), but I didnt know whether I needed the 5 1/4 inch or the 6 1/2 inch case version, or even if it mattered. Anyway, when installing the voltage regulator, I found that the wiring harness which runs between my battery and voltage regultor is worn, and actually spliced in 2 places, and was interested in replacing it, but I don't even know what part to ask for.
Also, one other question, just forward of my battery there is a small cylinder mounted to the side of the fender wall which the battery is connected to. A wire from this cylinder runs to the voltage regulator, and there are several other wires creeping out of this thing. What is this cylinder?
Also, how do I donate to the site? You guys have been unbelievably helpful so far, I'd like to give something back. I hope I'm not annoying you guys with my nooby questions. Thanks.
Also, one other question, just forward of my battery there is a small cylinder mounted to the side of the fender wall which the battery is connected to. A wire from this cylinder runs to the voltage regulator, and there are several other wires creeping out of this thing. What is this cylinder?
Also, how do I donate to the site? You guys have been unbelievably helpful so far, I'd like to give something back. I hope I'm not annoying you guys with my nooby questions. Thanks.
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Dommer,
A good idea when running to the parts store for most parts is to remove it before you head to the store. This is helpful for a number of reasons. Some parts, like alternators, brake shoes, water pumps, master cylinders, etc.. usually have a core charge. If you have the part on hand, you don't have to hassle with paying the core charge and then getting a refund after you bring in the old part. The other reason is, it makes it a lot easier to guarantee you have the right part before you walk out the door. Even something as simple as your basic alternator can be tricky, since they can be physically identical, just clocked differently. If you have the old one with you, the right parts person can make sure you walk out with the right part. This holds especially true with things like belts and hoses..
And that thing is the starter solenoid. When you turn the key to start, it's a relay that sends electricity to the starter.
Isaac
A good idea when running to the parts store for most parts is to remove it before you head to the store. This is helpful for a number of reasons. Some parts, like alternators, brake shoes, water pumps, master cylinders, etc.. usually have a core charge. If you have the part on hand, you don't have to hassle with paying the core charge and then getting a refund after you bring in the old part. The other reason is, it makes it a lot easier to guarantee you have the right part before you walk out the door. Even something as simple as your basic alternator can be tricky, since they can be physically identical, just clocked differently. If you have the old one with you, the right parts person can make sure you walk out with the right part. This holds especially true with things like belts and hoses..
And that thing is the starter solenoid. When you turn the key to start, it's a relay that sends electricity to the starter.
Isaac
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