amp shuts off :(
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Joined: Sep 2003
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amp shuts off :(
alright i have 2 audiobahn 12's with a soundstorm 1800w 2 channel amp...when i turn up the volume to a certain point the amp just stops and protective light comes on... and im sure it can go farther since its not very loud and zero disortion... i have a 97 f150 and i was going 65 down the highway and noticed that my headlights and foglights dimmed when the bass hit... so i pulled over and watched the power green light on the amp it dimmed and when it dimmes alot it switches off to protective.. i got a wiring kit from the local audio store and they gave me an 8 gauge and i questioned them on this wussy wire yet they said it will handle it no prob.. is this my problem or what should i do.... could it be a bad ground or wut.. any info is much appreciated...
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Central Ohio
Possible problems are subs wired incorrectly for the amp's capabilities, incorrect matching between amp and subs, amp quality, some shortcomings in the wiring supply to the amp, grounding issues, and alternator/battery condition.
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sounds like you have the subs wired at 1 ohm. i am very familiar with soundstorm amps. they are very good amps for their price but they will not handle a 1 ohm load. as for the 8 ga wire, i would get rid of it and run 4 ga at least or possibly 2 ga. that should take care of getting the power to that amp.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: California Desert
8 gauge wire should only be used for amps up to 400 watts. You need much larger wires. You might also want to do the "Big Three" upgrade to help with your dimming lights. Info about this upgrade is available if you dig through old threads.
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From: Kansas City, MO
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From: NorCal
ohm = measurement of resistance. Most AMPS love to power a 4 ohm driver. Unfortunately, most people bridge their two 4 ohm subs to create a lower ohm rating, which overpowers the AMP, hence the protect mode. A really good AMP will be 1 ohm stable. Most are happy with a 2 ohm load. 
Or just get two 8 ohm subs, bridge 'em, and have a 4 ohm load. There's lots and lots and lots of different ways to design a system. 
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2002 F-350 XLT 4x4 PSD 6spd SC SB SRW
2001 400ex SportTrax
1990 F-150 Lariat 4x4 I-6 5spd RC SB
---Also in Family---
2003 F-250 XLT FX4 6.0PSD TSA SC SB
2001 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4 AT SC SB
Or just get two 8 ohm subs, bridge 'em, and have a 4 ohm load. There's lots and lots and lots of different ways to design a system. __________________
2002 F-350 XLT 4x4 PSD 6spd SC SB SRW
2001 400ex SportTrax
1990 F-150 Lariat 4x4 I-6 5spd RC SB
---Also in Family---
2003 F-250 XLT FX4 6.0PSD TSA SC SB
2001 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4 AT SC SB
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Correct. An 8 ohm sub would probably get around half the power the 4 ohm would get. This doesnt mean you can go get a 2 ohm sub and expect twice as much power. Only do this if the amp is stable at that ohms.
Posting Guru
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From: California Desert
Most anything basic you will need to know about car audio can be found here: http://www.bcae1.com/installationprimer.htm . It explains most of the basic aspects very well.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Brandon Mb
I agree with everyone who said ditch the small wire. Also it sounds like you need a capacitator. That would prevent the lights from dimming, your gonna end up srewin the alternator and/or battery.
Trevor
Trevor
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Bixby, OK
The alternator and battery should be good for the size of system you go running there, unless you're running that new Pioneer HU that requires amp wiring to it. If you upgrade to the 4 ga or 2 ga, do the Big 3 upgrade, which you can find all over the place, do a search on it on FTE for the Big 3 and you'll come up with it. I have the same problem with my system, im fixing to do the Big 3, and reground everything with clean connections. Time is an essence though.
