I am trying to get "ed-jecatid" about this electrical monster known as the E4OD. I have a 91 Bronco 351, 140000+ miles. Reading threads about tranny I thought I would post a thread to see if some of the tranny guru's may have some insight before I start spending cash. I have not retrieved any codes and OD switch does not flash. Tranny has worked fine until recently and the problem is this: When I push OD switch it will turn OD off just fine. But when I let off gas the RPM's drop to idle, and there seems to be no engine braking. It used to increase RPM's and stay there, just like downshifting in any tranny. Now it just drops to idle no matter the vehicle speed. Crappy for towing and decending hills. When I give it gas, RPM's increase as it should. It seems something is not locking up in there. Also, when gas is applied in an aggressive fasion shifts can be rather harsh. This only occurs under hard acceleration, so it may or may not be a problem. Other than this it seems to be fine.

Thanks

 

Harsh shifts may be your MLPS. When it does this, wiggle your shifter in OD to try to make contact. Someone recently posted that they got a quality MLPS at napa and saved over the dealer.

Freewheel downhill in OD is normal? I think. In third you should get engine braking. There is a sprag clutch or roller clutch in some trans that will behave like this, don't know if it applies to the E4OD.

 

Hey thanks for the reply. I have read alot about the MLPS. I'll check into that as well. When OD is off it should not free wheel in idle (coast) and it didn't before. With OD off it should be in 3rd and have some engine braking. The RPM's are higher at say 65 mph with OD ON (in overdrive) than when you turn OD OFF (direct drive or 3rd gear) in which case RPM drops to idle. There seem's to be a clutch or gear or solenoid that is not locking up when OD off. But on the other hand, just to make it more confusing, when you apply gas with OD OFF (3rd gear) RPM's increase to where it would normally be during acceleration. Then, when you let off gas RPM drops to idle. Very strange.

 

Wow, this is really fascinating. I went out and jumped the test circuits and read the stored codes. Amazing! I got a 56 and a 67 and a 93. This would be according to may manual a TOT reads -40F or circuit open. As I live in AZ the later must be the case. Code 67 would be MLP sensor out of range or AC on. (I think it was off-not sure). 93 would be coast clutch solenoid circuit failure. That was really easy, now I just need to find out what the heck that all means and fix it. All you guys with your E4OD's it too less than 5 minutes to get these codes with a paperclip. If anyone knows what these mean or how to fix let me know if you have time.

Thanks.

 

code 93 makes sense. you should not be freewheeling w/ OD off as the coast clutch is applied to give you engine braking. with OD on (lite off) coast clutch is over riding. rpm's near idle when coasting. with code 93 coast clutch solenoid circuit failure, would explain your problem. it could be your actual solenoid or any of the wiring between the ECM and the transmission. really double check the big bulky connector on the right side of the tranny. it's behind a heat shield and do the same for the connector to the MLP sensor on the left side right where the manual lever bolts onto the transmission housing. also test the MLPS. there are certain values in each lever position. i think Ford Fuel Injection . com has an article on this, look in "down loads and look for "Manual Lever Position Sensor" By Pete Luban. i do not rember the values but starting at park and going down to first, the ohm's readings double while the voltage drops by only a 1/2 volt at each position. hope this helps.

 

Mike93 pretty much explained this already. But if you are into some techo-geeky stuff on the subject, here's some more info:

If you go to www.uspto.gov and do a patent search on Patent number 4884471, you will find a patent entitled "4 speed ratio automatic power transmission", assigned to Ford Motor Company.

The operation of the coast clutch is described in reasonable detail in the text description for the patent. I have snipped and quoted the most interesting portion below.

Evidently the coast clutch solenoid is used only in third gear. It appears that it is energized when the ECM grounds the CCS wire (pin 55 on the ECM). The code 93 is probably produced because the ECM is not seeing any voltage on pin 55 -- likely the result of an open circuit somewhere between the coast clutch solenoid in the trans and Pin 55 on the ECM. You could try disconnecting the ECM, turning on the key, and backprobing ECM connector pins 55, 53, 52, 19. These are the CCS, CCC, SS1, SS2, respectively. These should all have 12 volts present on them, fed from VPWR going down to the trans and thence through the solenoids.

Quote from the patent:

"Coast clutch 72 produces engine braking in third gear when the gear selector is in "drive". Otherwise, the transmission would freewheel in third gear while the vehicle is coasting. When overdrive range is selected, coast clutch 72 is disengaged hydraulically but engine braking results in fourth gear through operation of overdrive brake 74. When manual 2 and manual 1 are selected, the coast clutch is applied hydraulically through operation of a coast clutch shift valve 302; whereas, when drive is selected, the coast clutch shift value is activated through operation of a solenoid-actuated coast clutch valve controlled by programmed logic. A manually initiated shift from fourth gear to third gear or second gear causes a short delay to allow overdrive clutch 74 to release fully before coast clutch 72 engages."

 

Hey, you guys are great. Yeah, that seems right on. Obviously this is going to take some probing. The question is: Will it screw it up more if I drive it? It seems to run fine in all other respects. Anyone out there know a reputable shop in Phoenix, AZ area that won't rip me off if I delegate the troubleshooting?

Thanks for the help.

 

check out Transplant Plus Transmissions at the NW corner of Mc Clintock & Elliot,it's the Crossroads plaza or Transplant Plus Transmission or Phoenix Remanufactured Transmissions

 

Good information in this thread, thanks.

Did you find out any more about your trans?

 

Before you buy a new solenoid pack, check the solder connections where the harness connects to the solonoid pack. Just pull the pan and remove the brown plastic cover and you will see several solder connections, just inspect them for good connection. I replaced my pack before I discovered I could have fixed the solder connections while the old pack was still up in the trans. Now I have a good spare since I fixed my old one. Id rather have the cash I spent on the new pack though.

 

Hey, thanks for the info. Just got back in town and I will check the connections. According to a reply on my other thread due to the fact that it will engine brake in 1 and 2 that it must be a wiring or solenoid problem, nor a major transmission failure. I kinda figured that because it shifts fine at all the right speeds and downshifts, doesn't slip. Hopefully when I pull the pan there will be no metal. I'll report results.

 

Because I am lazy, don't want to dump pan in driveway etc. etc. took to transplant plus right down the road from me per recommendation. Told them the whole deal, was going to do "free" diagnostic. Suppossed to look in pan, etc. Well, I call back 8 hrs. later and they say that they have to drop trans. I asked if they dropped pan or pulled codes (which I gave them anyway). They said they road tested it and it was "worn out". Did not drop pan. They said they could do complete swap w/warranty and TQ for $1200. That sounded like a deal, but I still called B*?lsh$t on that. Went back and drove out and things seems fine. No noise, clean shifts. I kinda knew that those guy's say that. There solution is to rebuild. I at least want to drop pan and see if there is any metal in there, and check wires to solenoid pack. I may just awap out the MLPS after checking pan and filter for metal, and see if that helps. I know eventually this will need a rebuild, but there may be an easier solution.

 

Hey tectron1, how much did the solenoid pack cost? Is it hard to swap? What about MLPS?



Thanks

 

in case any one is following this anymore, turns out solenoid pack was leaking and worn out. Replaced it and all problems solved. Trans runs perfect and like new. Coast clutch problem is taken care of.
of course now my passenger window doesn't work now.....

thanks,

sean

 

i know how that goes. installed my new transmission and now my power door locks do not work