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inreil. I think it's not a coincidence that WalMart uses the Quaker State in bulk at their Oil & Lube Shops and you have to pay extra for any other brand. The Supertech is most likely Quaker State without advertising costs added to the price.
Just speculating, of course.......
CB
Hey I appreciate the speculation! Offering my own "speculation", two things - 1. If one looks closely at the "bottles" that the Supertech oil comes in, they have the EXACT same little "diagram in a circle" that the Motorcraft oil bottles do - you know, the one that "demonstrates" proper (less 'gluging') technique for pouring. Compare them closely vs. other brands, if you ever get a chance (I seem to MAKE time to go Wal*Mart and 'peruse' through the auto. parts section - guess I need to get a life - huh?) Others use this diagram or symbol, but they vary. In fact I've noticed "dupe" bottles for several brands. I don't know, maybe they (Motorcraft and Supertech) just use the same plastic-bottle manufacturer. And 2. - Ford part numbers (at least in my owners manual, as well as on the old black bottles) end with "QSP' (Quaker State Petroleum ???) for engine oil, AND "QL" (Quaker Lube???) for diff\gear lubricants. PURELY speculative on my part - but, . . . stranger things have happened. Happy Motoring! PS What do you (ALL) think? :-staun
>inreil. I think it's not a coincidence that WalMart uses
>the Quaker State in bulk at their Oil & Lube Shops and you
>have to pay extra for any other brand. The Supertech is most
>likely Quaker State without advertising costs added to the
>price.
>Just speculating, of course.......
>CB
Well i think quaker state is just extremely cheap in bulk because I know 4 owners of lube places in ohio. And they all have quaker state in bulk.
They (3)carry quaker state and valvoline in bulk and everything else in cases.
The fourth just has quaker state in bulk.
Rand
So a question for you. If you are saying that the Bosch +4 make the engine run crappy cause they get the comb. chamber so hot the carbon deposits start to slowly burn, thereby causing preignition; would changing out the plugs while the engine had relatively low miles and continuously running Bosch +4 prevent the carbon buildup and then allow the engine to run optimumally???
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Aug-02 AT 02:03 PM (EST)]I don't believe so. Basically electricity follows the path of lowest resistance so its not gonna fire on all 4 anyway. Just whatever the path of lowest resistance is.
Its almost as worthless as the splitfire, but good marketing.
I to at one time thought they were cool and its a cool idea but in real life I would take a regular dbl plat plug any day over a +4
even a regular bosch plug.(and save some bucks)
Now I have heard in some cases like hondas they actually provide a very slight power increase .
But I have never experienced anything good from bosch products in a ford ;(
I suspose theoretically(sp?) they would last longer because as one electrode wore it would switch to another one keeping it gapped closer for a longer period of time.
Oh and you do realise you can buy any plug
"hotter or colder" so you don't nec. have to purchase +4's which do run hotter.
Rand
Disclaimer: This is true to the extent of my knowledge. If you believe I'm wrong post or pm me and we can talk
hey guys, i just had the pleasure of changing all my plugs and stick with champion or autolite. helps your car run good. that bosch stuff is good for little sports cars. my 97 ranger is running great until the clutch went out. it's about that time for me to put some serious time into it before hunting season starts.
ps, if you need to change your spark plug wires stick with original parts. i picked up some aftermarket brand still cost the same just convenient at the time but they didn't have the little plastic pulley’s on the driver side and made it tough as nails to get in.
On my 94 Ranger (8 plugs) the original Motorcrafts platnums looked great at 100,000 miles when I changed them. I put Bosch platnums to save some cash and now at 200,000 miles I just pulled them and they look great...so I think I'll stick in Bosch again unless somebody can convince me otherwise. I know the Bosch's did real bad in my 83 Ranger...but that truck wasn't built for platnum plugs. Also, plan to replace my original Motorcraft plug wires. Anybody have any suggestions on cheaper wires that are still good quality?
I just picked up a set of Autolite "Pro" series wires for my 1998 2.5. $42.00 in Advance Auto and they are identical to the original equipment Motorcraft.Have the pull tabs just like the orig. Autolite is manufacturing Motorcraft for Ford.
Originally posted by TOUGHLover Man you didn't care for my first "offense" on the "CAPLOCKS" - I'd hate to see what would happen I were a "repeat" offender. Anyway I do truly appreciate you taking the time to deal with my 'novice' questions - I'm sure I'll go with Autolite (dual or double platinums)unless I can get the Motorcraft's (again dual or doubles) for my `99 Ranger 3.0 FFV for the same price. I am seriously considering "Bosch" plugs for my mom's Subaru (`98 Forester 2.5)though the O's manual recommends NGK or Champion (both platinums) as well as a Bosch or more likely Purolator oil filter for her vehicle in that the 'Sube" has developed an annoying rattlin' cold-start knock that I have become convinced has probably been made worse by the Fram oil filter's used pretty much exclusively in this vehicle. I really thought Fram was a top-of-the-line filter - or at least used to be? Thanks again , Glenn . . . :-staun
I've got a 1999 3.0L FFV also. After buying the truck (36K
miles), the truck developed a mis. When I checked the plugs
the previous owner installed Bosch...My owner's manual called
for Motorcraft AGSF12PP double platinums.
To make a long story short, Ford will try and tell you the
AGSF12PP plugs are replaced by AGSF22PP. The AGSF22PPs
run TOO hot, try and find the AGSF12PP plugs....
Oh, the Bosch were causing the "mis" problem.......