Hi, new to posting here but enjoy a lot of great info.
Hopefully someone can help me out here. I have 88 f150 4X4. The ignition switch suddenly became hard to turn then after about 3 starts I turned it and heard a "snap" the key now freely turns but does not engage the starter. All other power does come on.
Sooo... frist am I looking at a new ignition alltogether? and second what is the trick to getting into the ignition/steering column?

Thanks for any help that can be offered.

 

Sounds like the tab at the end of the ignition cylinder itself broke, but you won't know until you take it out.

take off the bottom plastic of the steering column - four #1 phillips screws, and underneath the lock cylinder you'll see a very small hole. Put a small screwdriver into that hole, then turn the ignition from "lock" to "run" slowly, and you should feel the screwdriver go in a little bit. When it does, wiggle the lock back and forth just a little bit, and pull it out. Then look inside and see what broke.

The lock rotates a cam inside the column, which pulls a long sliding bar inside the column, which actuates the ignition switch which is underneath the column, just under the dash. You can't miss it, its got all the really thick wires coming off it.

A new ignition lock with two keys is about $20ish, and a new ignition switch is about $60ish. Or, using this same technique, you can get yourself a new switch and lock from a junkyard car, if you're lucky enough to find a junk car/truck/van with a key in the ignition. Much cheaper that way, and kinda how I do it because i'm cheap.

One thing I would do actually, is take the column out, dismantle it enough to re-grease the ignition cam and sliding bar, sometimes they bind up and you might have this problem again... and its not fun.

The ignition switch, sliding bar covers, etc, are all torx bolts, just so you know. They are often gold in color as they are cadmium plated to avoid corrosion.

 

WOW, Thanks much frederic, that's exactly the info I'm looking for i'm hoping that is the problem.

 

If it turns out not to be the Key/Lock Cylinder itself, I would suspect the Lower Actuator in the column. I just repaired mine and from what I hear this is a very common problem. The following link is to a previous post about the lower actuator replacement if you need it. I replaced the Key/Lock Cylinder on mine as well as the electrical switch and it turned out to be the actuator.
Post back and let us know what you find out. The Key/Lock Cylinder believe it or not was cheaper at the dealer here than at Advanced Auto Parts by $9.

guzzler96

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=294617

 

Use Ignition switch part # SW-2472 or F2TZ-11572-E from Motorcraft if replacing the Ignition switch. New revised design replaces faulty original design. Must ask for this part number or dealers will sell you faulty original design switch for more money.

 

SW-2472 is updated part number for 87-91 F series/Bronco only.

 

seanm88 -
Is this fixed?? Let us know.

guzzler96

 

Wow, I just encountered the same problem on my '90 Bronco automatic with tilt steering. Turns out that the aluminum? linkage of the upper part of the actuator rod snapped, it broke at the link to the lock cylinder and also broke at the guide portion. The guide portion appears to be keyed somehow that locks the shifter when in the lock position. I had no problems getting the rod and broken pieces out and I got a replacement actuator rod from a salvage yard but now I'm having trouble installing it. The guide portion (long end of the aluminum piece) seems to be getting jammed in the guide hole and won't move from the locked position. I can't tell if it's just not fitting well or if it's hanging up on something. The old guide piece that came out didn't seem to have any unusual wear on it so I'm suspecting it has something to do with how it keys up with the shifter. Any ideas on this? Please help if you've come across this problem. Thanks,

Alan

 

On a tilt wheel you need to remove the tilt lock bar and the spring. Take a pivot pin remover, OTC7889 or equal available at NAPA for about $20 here, remove the pivot pins and then you can get the lower actuator back in. Take a roll pin punch and drive the pin on the tilt lock bar and the lower actuator out so you can reuse them. Read the post associated with the link below and it might help. If you have more questions just post back. You will have to remove the snap ring,bearing and gear in behind the key/lock switch if you haven't already and pay attention to the alignment of upper actuator and the gear for when you put it back together.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=294617



guzzler96

 

NO... Truthfully I've only had a quick glance at it. I took 2 screws oout of the column cover and removed the plastic. I can see the upper actuator and how it operates but have not figured out how to even get at the rest it. I can't see where the other screws are to remove the rest of the cover.( this not a tilt wheel). I was able to get it started with someone holding the clutch in and jumping it at the solenoid... but have not had a chance to look at it since.

 

Do your dash lights,e.g. battery, check engine,etc., light up if you turn key on or not?? If they do light, I took a remote starter switch, feed it thru the passenger side vent (little) window, hook it to the starter solenoid and then I could sit in the drivers seat and press the clutch to get it started by myself. This worked until I got mine fixed.

 

Yes they do. What did it cost for the remote starter kit? And since they do does that give you a better idea of whether it is the acuator or the ignition switch?

 

I would say less than $25. I went to Advance and Autozone's websites but I must not have my terminology correct. I could not find one listed, however I know they have them. Walmart maybe too. Just get one with as long a chord as you can. My lights came on and it was the lower actuator broken. I almost bet that's your problem. This happens a lot. As I mentioned, the dealer told me they have to repair this even on new ones, so Ford must use the same design on most all their trucks. Probably cars and SUV's too??



guzzler96

 

Thanks Guz. I did find one yesterday and hooked it up. $38.00 (cdn).

Any idea where (ie online) I can get a diagram of the 88 f150 steering column without buying a manual?

 

I have a shop manual for my '90 that I might be able to scan, maybe. I am not familiar with the upload process on FTE. I have never uploaded photos or anything so I would need to find out how you do that. In the mean time, you might try Autozone's website under repair info and I don't know if there is a repair info section on Advanced Auto website. Helm,Inc. is who prints the shop manuals for Ford, but you buy them(mine was about $125) and I have heard some people on here talk about Mitchell, but I am not familiar with Mitchell. I don't know if libraries keep books like this on hand or not. You might call one and see if they keep this kind of stuff in their Reference Section. You could not check them out, but you could copy them.



guzzler96