guzz you info has been on the money ...i just replace my broken lower acuator but when i got everythig back together the key still rolled forward and everythin lit up but no start just like prev. when broke...does the gear between the upper acuator and lock cylinder have to be set at a specific spot to turn over...

 

Not necessarily to turn over, but to get the proper position with the ignition switch (electrical switch down on the column), off position and make the accessory position (all the way back counterclockwise) work. I believe the last tooth on the gear behind the lock cylinder needs to be aligned with the last tooth on the rack on the upper actuator. One thing I discovered when I installed my turn signal switch a couple of weeks ago is to push down on the end of the upper actuator with your hand (with the steering wheel off) as you are putting the gear in and it will let you align the teeth easier. Also in the off position you need the electrical switch in the center position of the switch. I don't know if you have had the elec. switch off or not, but if you look at the switch from the bottom you will see a slot that the hook on the end of the ignition actuator rod fits into. If you slide the bottom part of the switch back and forth while looking at the top side of the switch you should notice a small oval shaped hole in the top side of the switch that is open at the mid-point of travel of the switch. If you are holding the switch parallel to your body and slide the switch left or right the hole will be closed. At the mid-point it's open. With the key in the off position you want the switch at the mid-point when you insert the ignition rod. Tighten the ignition switch bolts snug and tighten the top bolt all the way last to keep the switch from binding. You don't have to tighten a lot just snug and maybe a 1/4 turn. If I remember correctly when you have the gear in the right position and let off on the upper actuator that you pushed down on for alignment, the key on the gear will be aligned with the groove in the column. This should be aligned for reinsertion of the key/lock cylinder.



Any more questions just post up.

 

Ok, I believe my actuator arm (think this is the name) is broken. How do I replace that? Do I need to pull steering wheel??

 

Thanks for the info in your posts. Truly a wealth of information!
I have a 1991 F-150 2WD Tilt wheel and in the process of replacing a broken lower actuator (wishbone shaped piece). I have two questions before I assemble the cast cover, ignition, turn signal, etc...

1) The end of the ignition rod is setting on top of the new lower actuator and the small 90 deg end turned upwards and to the rear ( of the truck) of the small pin I replaced on the new actuator. So when the lower actuator is pressed toward the dash it doesn't look like the rod is moving. Is this correct? I don't see another way to connect it or any piece that would contact it in this position. It was not connected on tear down due to broken actuator and I can't find any diagrams. Please help.

2) The upper actuator seems very loose, the teeth look ok, but the slot where it connects to the pin on the lower actuator is oblong (1/4"). It doesn't appear to be worn, but would like an opinion before I reassemble.

Thanks for the help.
Trey

 

Please read earlier post (below) and advise.

Thanks a ton,
Trey

>>>>>>
Thanks for the info in your posts. Truly a wealth of information!
I have a 1991 F-150 2WD Tilt wheel and in the process of replacing a broken lower actuator (wishbone shaped piece). I have two questions before I assemble the cast cover, ignition, turn signal, etc...

1) The end of the ignition rod is setting on top of the new lower actuator and the small 90 deg end turned upwards and to the rear ( of the truck) of the small pin I replaced on the new actuator. So when the lower actuator is pressed toward the dash it doesn't look like the rod is moving. Is this correct? I don't see another way to connect it or any piece that would contact it in this position. It was not connected on tear down due to broken actuator and I can't find any diagrams. Please help.

2) The upper actuator seems very loose, the teeth look ok, but the slot where it connects to the pin on the lower actuator is oblong (1/4"). It doesn't appear to be worn, but would like an opinion before I reassemble.

Thanks for the help.
Trey

 

If I remember correctly the bottom end of the ignition rod, the hook must turn up to engage the ignition switch, electrical part on the column. Where the upper end of the ignition rod attaches to the lower actuator, I believe the hook turns down. Did you drive out the roll pin that holds the ignition rod in the lower actuator when you disassembled ?? You drive out the roll pin with a roll pin punch, put the rod in and drive the roll pin back in to hold it.

The oblong slot in the upper actuator is mad that way.

Modem has been on the blink so I haven't been online 'til now.

 

UPDATE! Problem Solved!

After further inspection, I had incorrectly attached the ignition rod to the lower actuator. I never did find the tab near the ignition switch to attach the lower turn signal connector/harness to. Should I zip tie it ?

Great Forum,
Thanks for the info!
Trey

 

Ok, I am pretty sure the lower actuator arm is broken, I have the steering wheel off and most it taken apart, BUT I am not sure how to get to the lower actuator. I have a 95 f150 with no tilt.

 

I zip tied nothing in mine. Does your turn signal harness go between the steering column shaft and the bracket that attaches the steering column to the under side of the dash?? The bracket is fastened to the under side of the dash by four bolts. If it doesn't go between these it should. That will hold the turn signal harness wiring up out of the way. The harness should have a protective sleeve around it so that when you tighten up the four bolts on the bracket it won't hurt the wiring. Glad you got it fixed. This is a very common problem.

To galanthias:
Do an advanced search of this forum by either lower actuator or ignition switch and you should find all the info for this repair. If you cannot find it post back and I will try and post up the links. Be sure and follow all the internal links within the posts. I have several posts and rernst has one also.