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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

starter solenoid problem

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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 06:36 PM
  #1  
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lariat1
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starter solenoid problem

Hi All,

I own a 1986 f150 lariat with a standard transmission, 302....the truck is 4wd as well.
Here's the problem...when I start the truck it runs fine for about a minute until the starter solenoid starts smoking, once that happens I cannot turn off the truck. I am forced to disconnect one of the battery terminals. Why am I burning out starter solenoids ? I replaced one just to have the same thing happen again.
The truck ran fine for about 3 months after a purchased it until this started happening.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paul,
Champaign Illinois
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 07:09 PM
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
What brand of solenoid are you using? You may want to use Motorcraft. You also HAVE to hook up the big cables on specific terminals on the solenoid. Ask me, I learned it the hard way!

-Matt
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 07:22 PM
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Thanks Beast...I am pretty sure everything is in it's right place but I will reference a haynes manual to be sure.

I appreciate the reply.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 07:28 PM
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lariat 1, I'm a mechanic at a Ford dealership and I had the same problem on an early 90's truck. When you went to start it sometimes it would continue cranking even when you let off the key. the only way it would stop cranking was to take off a bat. cable.After replacing 3or4 selenoids finally came to the conclusion that Motorcraft had a bad rash of selenoids,got one from Carquest and problem was gone. But now that I think about it, maybe thats not your problem,... you didn't say that it "keeps cranking" but that it burns up the selenoids. If this is the case, check and make sure that the bat. positive cable goes to one of the big posts on the selenoid . On that same post along with the battery cable put all of the other wires with "big eyelets" here too EXCEPT the starter wires! The starter wires are the only wires that go on the other post! They are big and go directly to the starter. If you have wires messed up it will cause problems. Also be sure that your selenoid is grounded good. Sometimes I take some sandepaper to the fender where the selenoid bolts to . Sorry this is so long,...
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 07:35 PM
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Hey Bigsbetter...thank you very much. I will check the cables and make sure the ground is good.
Appreciate the detailed reply.

Paul
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 10:10 PM
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Also make sure that you no bared wires as this sounds a lot like a shorting wire.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 10:40 PM
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If your starter switch(key switch) is column mounted, you may also want to check it as well. It's a 12 dollar part, and requires little effort to change, but will cause a similar problem, as the switch gets old, and doesn;t release as fast, and will cause a starter to continue to spin after initial start-up.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 09:58 AM
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Mine does that, but if I tap the solenoid on the fender the starter will stop spinning. I replaced the solenoid with one from a local auto parts (not a motorcraft) and the starter kept spinning even if I tapped that one. So I put the old one back in so at least when it happens I can stop it. You think it's the switch in the column?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 10:02 AM
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RR4E
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by jheroux
Mine does that, but if I tap the solenoid on the fender the starter will stop spinning. I replaced the solenoid with one from a local auto parts (not a motorcraft) and the starter kept spinning even if I tapped that one. So I put the old one back in so at least when it happens I can stop it. You think it's the switch in the column?

Very likely it's the switch inside the column, they tend to start to stick as they get older. Might be able to clean it up and lube it with some electronic contact cleaner, but it will likely only be a temporary fix at best. The part is relatively cheap, and not to hard to change.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:57 PM
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Also if that doesn't fix the problem you might have to clean the starter, in my 81 mudder it was doing the thing and it only did it after the 2nd time i had it in the boggs, but i never did clean it and then the starter finaly puked on me and it was like a bomb went off inside the starter. (i was pouring the ground up parts on to the work bench)
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 04:44 AM
  #11  
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RR4E
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by mustange70
Also if that doesn't fix the problem you might have to clean the starter, in my 81 mudder it was doing the thing and it only did it after the 2nd time i had it in the boggs, but i never did clean it and then the starter finaly puked on me and it was like a bomb went off inside the starter. (i was pouring the ground up parts on to the work bench)

Your starter seals were leaking if this was the case. Was probably time to change it anyways. I use loc-tite 515 gasket compound on the seals when I re-assemble starters to help keep the crap out. It's wonderful stuff, and works on any gasket situation, and better than regular silicon gasket material does IMO.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 05:46 AM
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Thanks to all who have replied...I really do appreciate the advice...this weekend I plan on checking out the truck...I'll let y'all know if I can get it running.

Paul
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:08 AM
  #13  
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From: GARLAND, TX
sup!

I just want to say i had same problem and it turned out to be my starter motor was connected wrong and also some cables that go hooked up to the selenoid were kind burned located under steering wheel.... check all ur cables dealing with selenoid ....the haynes manual tells u which one they are and dont worry is nothing big of a problem, just becarefull
 
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 12:46 AM
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Acctually RR4e it was a brand new starter (NAPA one though) It finally puked about 3 months later, and i still have to reseal the starter i cleaned up to replace that one.
 
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