My trucks got the 3.45s today on the freeway at 50 mph in 4th i was at 2000,So I guess a couple hundred more wouldn't hurt. Its just the time it takes to swap them in.. The front should be easy cause I can just drop the carrier out but hte back ..I'ts like a chevy rear..the carrier is part of the housing.I dont have heat in my garage and winter is creepin up,We already have snow :/ But I think I can last the winter on stock gears or if I find a place ti install them for decent.
I work in a Heavy duty drive line shop so getting the gears won't be hard.But we are on an exchange basis so we dont have actual trucks in. just their blown up junk

 

Back to clearence.. The 33 should fit with the 2 inches in the suspension and 3 in the body.
checked out some of them BIIs in the gallery on TRS. they look killer with the 33s.(J. LIttles is my favorite)

 

Oh, I thought you had 3.73's like my 84 did. Is your stock tire height 26.5" (Same) 195/75 R15's. If they are you would probably be better off with 4.56, it would still give you a little more pep than stock. The 5.13 might be too low if you see alot of highway miles, but if you just jaunt around town and to the trail, the 5.13's would give you a lot more low end torque. And yeah, I think they would fit fine.

 

My question is with 33" tires, would the 7 inch rim fit? Aren't 33's usually with a width of 11.5 or 12.5? When I took my 7.5" rims in to be mounted with the 31x10.50's he said that 8" rims are usually what is best for the width, but what I had would work. I also have no lift yet w/ 31's. Speaking of lift, I don't recomment the hockey puck, they're known to bust and mess a few things up. I think JC Whitney has some spacers that you can use, and won't bust up. If you're good at welding and cutting and using your noggin' you should look up fishmandotcom on here and look at some of his posts, he did a 6" lift and it cost him practically nothing, and has told other people how to do it through posts. That's the route I'm going to take when I do my lift. But I would recomment about a 5-6" lift with the 33's, that would give it a nice stance/look, and tire clearance. Might wanna think about some wider wheels though.

 

I'm using 9.75 wheels with my 15.5 wide swampers, it actually recommends that width on the side of the tire. I think it might be slightly to narrow for a 12.5 but doable. 12.5 wide tires usually have around a tread width several inches narrower than the overall width like a 12.5 is probably 9 to 10. It will round the tire a little, which will make you have to air down more to have a flat contact patch, but at road speeds where you need more pressure, it will wear more on the middle, but it will also keep the bead away from trail attacks and help keep the bead on when at lower pressures. Otherwise some say that causes you to have a little less traction on rocks and such because of the rounding of the tire and you having less tire contact with the terrain. I think you'd be fine, that would just be about the narrowest wheel I would mount a 12.50 on, and with a narrower tire of that height you should be fine as well. At least in my opinion.

 

But wouldn't that result in faster tire wear also? IMO I would go with wider wheels, but yours should be ok, my 10.5's on my 7.5's don't make the tires doughnut too much, so maybe the tires would fit.

 

I ended up ordering some 32x11.50 pro comp mud terrains.The wheels I'm using are 7 inches wide.acording to my measurements I may be able to fit these with only the suspension lift. I'd rather avoid the hassle of cracking a bunch of rusty bolts loose and lifting the body.Dont you need to remove the carpet and junk to get at the rear ones?
Also swapped in a 58mm TB.Noticed a real difference to about 2800 rpm.The revvs dont fall as much from a stop and it's more responsive.Best 13 bucks I spent.

 

It will cause a little more wear on the middle of the tire, but it shouldn't be bad, and yeah, body lifts are cheap, but they can be very difficult to install, you have to have a spacer on the steering shaft, your radiator and fan don't line up if you have a mech. fan. Most of the bolts on mine were horrid and its good I replaced them they were almost all rusted to about 50%. Then the cone washer/nuts were all bad, And you can only get those from a few places and they are 10, 13 bucks a piece. I had to torch some off which mean't I had to buy new body bushings as well, yes you have to pull up the carpet or cut holes in it, one ground wire was too short it was attached at the windshield motor. I had to heat up the shifter handle and rebend it to work without hitting my fist on the center console, the transfer case shifter needed to have a slot cut in the floor so it could go all the way forward. You will need to drop the gas tank to get to the back ones as well, I don't know how you could get on them unless they are in perfect condition and will come right off. IT IS A BIT!!!! if they are rusty though they could be in real bad shape on the inside, but after all the crap I had to buy that was bad I spend lets see80 for the 3" body lift. 100plus for the washer-cone-nuts, 100 or so for the bushings and whole lotta crappy time. I didn't worry about the carpet, pulled it all out. Had to fiberglass/sheetmetal the front floorboards they were so bad. Check behind your front spring pads on the frame. KEEP IT CLEAN!!!!!!!! I had to weld a 5"x10"x.25" thick plate on each side to fix where I could stick my fingers thru!!!! I also spaced the pads out for the wider axle but thats another story. Also check and CLEAN around the rear leaf spring mounts. KEEP THEM ALL CLEAN. I really don't know how it was holding together, other than the engine crossmember I think I was in for a bad surprise. Think of it this way, and I did this, You lift the front up with a loader or high lift or something to get under and work on something and the dam frame cracks and breaks right there and your dead. I am lucky. I just used the loader on my massey to pick the front up before I put jackstands under the frame further back. Just check them. Oh, and I just finished getting my 302/C4 auto out of my F100 donor for my B2. Now to start putting my swap parts on, oil pan, tranny temp gauge,rebuild the carb, inverted fuel pump etc...

 

Is there amanual tranny that you can use in a4x4 with the 302 swap?

 

Yeah, like if the 302 was mated to a transfercase with a manual, or if you mean keep the borg 13 50 like me than I believe Advance Adapters has them for the T5 and maybe a few others.

 

Keep the stock t-case but find a manual tranny to fit a 302 and drop them in,or even a transfer case and tranny out on an f-150.I'd just rather have a manual than an auto,Ford seems to have bad luck with o/d automatics

 

I wanna do a 5.0 swap, how much do you think it costs overall?

 

My 302 and C4=$100, carb rebuild kit $25, oil pan kit $110, reverse mount fuel pump $25, floor shifter $110, tranny to transfer adapter $515, transmission temp gauge $50, tranny cooler $50, gotta get hoses and lines, well with the above and not sure if I can modify the trucks or b2s motor mounts and tranny mounts, etc it will all end up being around 1500. maybe a little more maybe a little less.

 

time to awaken this huge thread! I have my new lift coils in hand.But how do I go about undoinf the nut that holds the coil to the axle? do ineed a deep socket and a bunch of extensions or a fancy wrench? What size is it 18mm or something?

 

Yeah, I used a long extension and socket to remove it, I seem to remember I used a impact to remove it, but I'm sure it could be removed with a ratchet. Well, I am dressed for bed, but if you need to know what size socket I will put it on here tomorrow.