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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 11:28 PM
  #16  
82F1507.5's Avatar
82F1507.5
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From: Texas
351W swap

Wait a minute.... I have a 1988 F-150 4X2 351W with rear sump oil pan. Yes the dipstick is in the oil pan. All you have to do is plug the dipstick hole in the timing cover.

351/302 Frame perches are the same EFI or Carb. 302/351 accessory brackets are the same.

Ford did not use the A0D transmission on 351/460 because it (the AOD) could not handle the torque and extra towing capacity. The older AOD's were converted C6's but did not have the internal strength of the original C6. I am not surprised that your AOD quadrant selector was changed to match the original C6 detents.

Kickdown. Since you do not have a real C6 or a real AOD, you will need a Lokar or Lokar "like" kickdown cable. I used a Lokar "like" on my 460/C6 combo because the stock 460 kickdown would not fit my carb/intake.
Lokar "like" is about 1/3 the cost of Lokar. Check eBay.

Torque Converter: The 2200 stall torque converter is about 500 RPM higher than the stock AOD torque converter. You may overcome the faults of the AOD with that converter or maybe not. I am curious to know how it works out for you.

302/351 had a two row aluminum radiator or 3 row copper radiator if equipt with trailer tow option, dual fuel tanks and factory A/C.

While you have the engine out, think about changing the power steering gear box. If you remove it now and trade it in for a rebuilt one you will save yourself a lot of hassle down the road, your old one will start to leak if it has not already. The rebuilt Ford box is about $40 with a $90 core charge. Now is the time to do it. I got a rebuilt pump, gearbox and new hoses for $125 exchange, well worth it. I got the same deal on a rebuilt booster and master brake cylinder. Since my engine was out, I went ahead and did the same exchange for a blower and wiper motor. Got the engine bay detailed and all the new stuff installed in one day. Well, more like 12 hours. I did not refill the brake cylinder because I planned on changing the calipers, rotors, pads, shoes, and rear axle bearings/seals and rear wheel cylinders after the engine/transmission install. That was another full weekend. After that I did the front strut bushings. I should have done that when the rotors and calipers were off.

MSD ignition. You should only need one wire from the key switch, I think is yellow with white stripe. Just follow the MSD directions for installation assuming you are using a Duraspark II distributer, you should have no problem. You need one always hot, one fused hot (key switch) The tachometer wire color is green. Wire colors for fuel, oil, temperature, alternator, high beam, and turn signal are the same from 1978 on up to 1992 so it does not matter which wire code book or old harness you reference for those instruments. Brake warning (proportion valve) wire harness is seperate from the main cluster harness.
 

Last edited by 82F1507.5; Nov 1, 2004 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2004 | 01:34 AM
  #17  
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RR4E
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I'd like to know where you got a steering box for 40 bucks(even for American money) The cheapest I can get here is 185 for a used wrecking yard box, 521(before core exchange, 320ish after) or 320 rebuilt - core of 75 bucks local. For 90 bucks I'd go buy a junked unit and buy two of them. I have a 4x4 btw, and the boxes fit 1981-1992 for 4x4's.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2004 | 10:14 AM
  #18  
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82F1507.5
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From: Texas
Rr4e

I don't know where here is for you RR4E but here in Texas I did pay $140 at Oreilly auto parts (not $40 as stated earlier) When I wrote the last post I just added the costs for pump, box, and hoses as I wrote them, should have been $225, (not $125 as stated earlier). Hell if it was >$500 I never would have considered changing them...ever!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2004 | 02:28 PM
  #19  
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SSCX2
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From: Colorado
Wow some new posts

I looked around all the wrecking yards for a pan mount dipstick tube pan couldent find any like that at all. I found plenty of non pan mounted ones.

The steering in my truck is actually very good, Ive never driven a ford with steering this good. The donor 302 stuff does have a 2 year old pump thats going to be used in the swap.

Duraspark 2 would be OEM on a 78 woudlent it? That one in the book is the setup I was going to try to use. Right now I bascily have just the MSD a distributor and a coil.

The radiator should be the last "big" ticket item besides the carb. My radiator has trans oil coolers on the PS the 302 truck has them on the DS no cooler lines left on the truck and the radiator is damaged. I'm going to call around and see if one of these radiator places has one that will fit.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2004 | 06:57 PM
  #20  
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bremen242
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From: GANS
my '85 F250 with 351W HO has a rear sump with tube in pan...
 
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Old Nov 3, 2004 | 11:54 PM
  #21  
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SSCX2
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From: Colorado
Well the dealer droped the ball. The pan they ordered dident have the tube in it.

I found the correct pan in an 85 E van, problem is it's only for sale with the engine which runs.

I'm going to attempt to use the pan mount peice from the 80 300 in another junk yard rear sump pan. Dont have much choice. (funny voice in head keeps telling my to cut the cradle. bad voice!)
 
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Old Nov 15, 2004 | 01:51 PM
  #22  
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SSCX2
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From: Colorado
Well figured its time for an updadte.

Found a pan that fit $75, had to did up AC/PS brackets/pump $75 alt fit fine.
Good thing is the new PS pump is a saginaw unit from a van much better IMO.

Got most everything in, just waiting on a radiator with cooler lines on the passenger side. Just got back from the bone yard, had to dig up a round coil clip for the new coil at least that was free. Another peice ordered from CSK dident work, ac idler, one was bent one had a bolt sticking through so it wouldent mount flush.

Just need to run 2 more wires on the MSD box, slap the radiator in, top off the fluids and off to the muffler shop!
 
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