Hi all, It's been quite a long time since I've been around (2 years).
But I'm back now and ready to start a new project

I picked up an 86 F150, real nice short box I-6 truck with major wiring, ECM problems. I found a nice rebuilt 351W with very low miles so I'm going to use it instead of sinking time into the 6's problems especially since a friend needs another 300 for his 80.

My problem is, I cant remember all the stuff nessasary for the swap and need to get back on the road ASAP (of course). So if you guys can fill in the blanks for me I'd appreciate it. Also no Smog laws in my area so its not an issue I'll be dealing with.

1. The 351 is from a 78 4x4 so its got a front sump that wont work with my 2WD without swapping the pan around. I've ordered a new pickup tube for the oil pump but the parts stores dont list a rear sump tube for a 78, so I ordered one for a 86 302 2WD. Will that clear the 351 shallow pan, or will I need to use a newer pan as well?

2. The new IGN system is going to be controlled by an MSD 6 box using the 78 distributor. Is there any problems I might run into or extra parts I might need?

Might be the wrong fourm but I'll ask anyway.

3. My new (86) was converted to an early AOD and rigged up with peices from the C6 and AOD detent levers welded togather. Since Ive never had an automatic I really dont know too much about the geometry required to operate the AOD. I also heard I cant use one of the 600cfm (chorme) replacment Holley's with an AOD. What can I do in this situation?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Can't help you that much with the oil pan & pickup, but I do know 351W&302 pans are different..

The easiest way to adapt an AOD's kick down to a holley or any other aftermarket carb would be to order Lokar's AOD stainless kickdown. About $150 with hardware(www.lokar.com), but that is the only way to do it. If you rig up the TV on an AOD, if you don't have it just right, there is a good chance you can roast it good..

 

A pan and pick up tube will work from a truck with a 351 that is 4x4 or 2x4 (same pan, i have a pan and pickup off a 88 351h.o. out of a F250 4x4) from 80 to 96.

 

Thanks for the information guys!

I was thinking the pickup tube might work since the 2WD pans are steped down. I cant recall any tube really sticking deep into the pan, maybe 2-1/2 inches at most. I'd just like to make certain since the engine swap/heart transplant will start monday.

Ive seen the Lokar cable setups but they look a bit pricy. I was thinking about the lever situation. From what I can see the lever pushes on a bracket that is tied into the throttle valve, the more its pushed the higher the line pressure and the longer its held in gear. After a certain amount of pressure 2nd+ it will downshift. The holley does have the bracket that works with 3 speed transmissions in a similiar way but what Ive seen the AOD has a different shaped lever down on the housing then a C6. This is where it starts to make no sence since they both just need to push and go full travel @ WOT.

 

80-up motor mount frame brackets are different for 300 and the 302/351w.

 

I know the SB V8 sits back further and the perches need to be added but theres nothing that wont bolt in is there? I do have a doner 83 truck that had a blown up 5.0 in it and was planning on taking the perch off the right since it bolted on and I orderd a left side from ford today rather then spend the $90 to get the bottles refilled for my torches and blast the rivets out.

Also the 302 from the doner truck has all the brackets and accsessories for ac/alt/ps ect. They should swap over shouldent they?

Dont scare me here I just spent the last 45 minutes pulling the 300 out and all the computer crap. All engines should be that easy to remove!

 

Yeah, they will bolt up.. actually, they will bolt up to a diesel/bigblock frame as well.

you will need the left&right side.. I just X'd the rivets with a cutoff wheel and chiseled them off with an air hammer.

 

Ok, I got a little worried there since my dad was the swap master, since he passed I'm on my own with these things.


Update:

I got the new perch from ford today, headers came in along with some percys dead soft gaskets. I'm still trying to figure out the MSD box wiring and the guage wiring. I could have swore there was a black and blue wire for the oil sender but after pulling the wires all apart I'm left with just two connectors both pinkish stripe wires both on the 4 prong connector. Also decided to get a high stall converter since this one doesent look too sharp.

New question to toss out.

I did remove all the ECM wires and like stated have only the two for the oil and temp on the 4 pin connector on that side of the engine. The other two wires on that termial went to the IGN module and ECM right? So I cant just not use them and the other two of the 3 plugins on the left wheel well just stay unplugged? I had alot of fun attempting to unwravel that mess of wires.
As far as the right wheel well. I have the alt plugin and am left with only one connector for the starter soleniod alt field wire. Sound about right?

Well back to pulling my friends 80 engine out and getting that swapped over. I forgot we needed a pilot bushing.

 

You might want to test fit your headers on the p-side before you bolt them up. I had a problem with my flareside cause the headers were one the hot wire for the starter, to fix this i got a mini starter from a 94 f-150 from the wreckers.

 

headers for my 351W hit the driver's side of the C6.. that sucked.

 

Yeah the headers in my 82 flare were ordered for a 87 F-250 4x4 (orginal home meant for the motor currently in my trucK)

 

Well got the new tq converter 2200 stall should be nice. I pulled out the ARC welder had once piece of 1111 cutting rod left and zapped the old exh system off. Looks like the headers will clear nice since the AOD has a smaller body but ya never know until you stick them in, Book said they fit F-series, Vans and Broncos but we'll see. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

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Continued on the 300-300 swap, not a direct bolt in from 86 to 80. Had to change quite a few things and I hope the exh manifold will work since the 86 engine doesn’t use a doughnut gasket like the 80 does it has the protrusion in the casting. Did pull the pan off to change the gasket since it looked like it might be leaking I didn’t notice any drips but it’s allot easier with the engine on a stand. This is one clean engine, the previous owner said it was rebuilt a few years ago but didn’t have any paper work. I assumed it was rebuild in a can when he didn’t have any proof but there was absolutely sludge build up at all so I guess we should never assume someone is BS'ING but it’s nice to have proof. I hope to get his truck back on the road tonight but stabbing these sixes isnt fun.

If everything works tonight I'll probably get the 351 in sunday. Still looking for a good spot to mount the MSD box, it's probably going to end up where the jack was. Still need to pickup a new carb.

Anyone got opnions on what type of mufflers to use? Im going to exit before the tires and use the mustang style square tips but I dont a muffler thats going to get annoying at highway speed.
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Are you going single or dual exhaust? a single 3" is about the same cost as a 2.5
dual.

 

Probably going with the dual 2.5 pipe since the reducers reduce to 2.5. My partents knew all the muffler shop owners so I can get a discount at most places. I talked to one who would run the aluminumized 2.5 pipe and an H & tips for $120, of course that doesent include mufflers. I like the KC glasspacks I have on my chevy work truck but Ive never heard a set sound good with a ford mill. The muffler guy reccomended flowmasters but they just sound too loud and hollow for my taste.

Anyway I hurt my back getting the 300 stabbed. Piliot bearing was A PITA to get alligned. Ended up getting the engine level and working the trans level the hard way. Oh well it gives my a chance to catch up with the vacuum/hyd line routing for my 67 T-Bird.

 

Well Beer cured my back for the mean time.

Update:


Got the 300 running. Found the exh manifold flange is different, so its getting peiced togather.

Worked on swaping brackets and such from the donor 302. Guess what I found?

THE FREAKING PAN ON EITHER ENGINE WILL NOT WORK!!! THE DIPSTICK ON THE 351 IS FRONT MOUNTED, 302 IS BLOCK MOUNTED REAR

Ok end rant mode

Called up a few speed shops to see if I could get a pan that fits the 351 with a pan mounted dip stick, no go but was told 351W vans were the only donor for that type. Called all the wrecking yards nothing, called the dealer and ordered a new pan, pickup tube, dipstick tube and dipstick. It's probably going to run a good $250+ for all the new parts. Dale at the local ford dealer told me the van part number crosses to a 96 351 truck as well. This 351 better be worth it for all this hassle.

This one is getting a tech artical written on it for sure with all the part numbers and special tricks.

Oh another sad note the percys gaskets dont fit, the ports dont match up.