Colder plug question
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From: Florida
That's true. The sludge could have come from the sea foam choking my engin half to death and blowing massive clouds out the rear. That certainly is a possibility. However, I can't be sure because I didn't pull a plug right before I did the sea foam. Last time I pulled one was a few months ago and it looked fine. However it IS getting better. right after i installed the stock motorcraft plugs, it was detonating at about 3300 rpm at 3/4 to full throttle. This morning on my way to work i punched it a few times and it didn't start detonating until after 4000 rpms, and not as bad. So either the solvents are working or the truck is just "fixing" itself, which has happened to me before.
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From: B'ville, WV
Tom, do you know the plug number you put back in off the top of your head? Did you put the same plug in both sides. I wonder if their is any real benefit to putting the two different plugs that our trucks come with stock back in. I have seen the plug numbers posted for which ones go in which side. The search forum feature doesn't seem to be working.
I have yet to try the seafoam and the full engine cleaner you have mentioned. My biggest problem is poor acceleration, hesitation. I have always been able to get up to about 90MPH. It just takes alot longer than it used to. And in all honesty, my truck will have 100,000 miles on it by the end of the month and I'll bet that I haven't run a half dozen bottles of fuel injector cleaner through it, so I'm sure that has something to do with it. It just hasn't seemed to run bad at all until the last 6 months or so. You think it needs some cleaning?
I have yet to try the seafoam and the full engine cleaner you have mentioned. My biggest problem is poor acceleration, hesitation. I have always been able to get up to about 90MPH. It just takes alot longer than it used to. And in all honesty, my truck will have 100,000 miles on it by the end of the month and I'll bet that I haven't run a half dozen bottles of fuel injector cleaner through it, so I'm sure that has something to do with it. It just hasn't seemed to run bad at all until the last 6 months or so. You think it needs some cleaning?
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From: Florida
new plugs and wires would always be my first guess. but a few bottles of the 10.00 engine treatment wouldn't hurt. I don't know the plug numbers off the top of my head. The Ford dealer said that they changed the numbers anyway because Motorcraft upgraded the plug. As far as running the different plugs on either side of the motor, I've never heard anyone tell me that this is essential so I wouldn't know. Good question though, possibly good enough for a seperate thread all together. Do you want to post it and see what response we get?
Tom
Tom
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From: B'ville, WV
Tom, just did the plugs and wires back in the summer. Both Motorcraft. No real noticeable improvement. Also did fuel filter and MAF cleaning. Notta.
I could post it later if you haven't already done so. I gotta get off here for awhile and go to a meeting.
I could post it later if you haven't already done so. I gotta get off here for awhile and go to a meeting.
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From: Florida
I don't think it really makes a difference about the different plugs, otherwise i think the dealer will give you both sets when you walk in to buy new ones. I don't give them a part number i just tell them i need a new set of plugs for my truck and they look it up on the computer and give me the proper one. I think if two sets were needed the computer would say that. If your still getting hesitation that I would definately run a bunch of detergents through that motor, it's gotta be gummy in there or your injectors are dirty. How about your air filter?????
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From: B'ville, WV
I'm using a K&N drop in. It too was cleaned and re-oiled back in the summer. I usually wait about a week or so after cleaning the filter, then I pull the MAF and clean it w/ CRC electronics cleaner, just in case I used too much oil on the filter.
As far as plugs go, that is all I do as well. Except I got mine at Autozone. They sold me Bosch the first time. The truck ran like pretty well...for a short period of time. I returned them, after a couple of months, and the manager exchanged them for Motorcraft. He said I never should have been sold the Bosch when buying for a Ford.
I think I will post the question regarding the different plugs though. Just to see the possible wide array of answers that we will get. Could be interesting.
As far as plugs go, that is all I do as well. Except I got mine at Autozone. They sold me Bosch the first time. The truck ran like pretty well...for a short period of time. I returned them, after a couple of months, and the manager exchanged them for Motorcraft. He said I never should have been sold the Bosch when buying for a Ford.
I think I will post the question regarding the different plugs though. Just to see the possible wide array of answers that we will get. Could be interesting.
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From: Florida
Yeah Bosch + Ford = pttthhhptt phhhtpppt. For some strange reason, I have no idea.
Ah, but let me ask you this excellent question: Motorcraft stock plugs from the dealer are pre-gapped at .040, did you remember to set the proper gap at .052 prior to install????
Alot of people don't realize that they are NOT gapped correctly. They use the same plug for an array of different applications that call for different plug gaps, therefore it is impossible for any plug to ever come "pre-gapped" to spec for your specific vehicle, REGARDLESS of what the tech or salesperson tells you. I'll bet my life on it, and $100.00.
Tom
Ah, but let me ask you this excellent question: Motorcraft stock plugs from the dealer are pre-gapped at .040, did you remember to set the proper gap at .052 prior to install????
Alot of people don't realize that they are NOT gapped correctly. They use the same plug for an array of different applications that call for different plug gaps, therefore it is impossible for any plug to ever come "pre-gapped" to spec for your specific vehicle, REGARDLESS of what the tech or salesperson tells you. I'll bet my life on it, and $100.00.
Tom
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From: B'ville, WV
Yeah, .052. Seems pretty large. Haynes specs lists a range like .052 - .056. I think I am at .052 but I might have went in the middle,.054.
I wonder if that applyies to those Bosch plugs as well. I remember checking those before installing them. The plug boxes had big, bold letters. DO NOT RE-GAP..or something like that. They were actually pretty close to the .052, as well as I remember.
I wonder if that applyies to those Bosch plugs as well. I remember checking those before installing them. The plug boxes had big, bold letters. DO NOT RE-GAP..or something like that. They were actually pretty close to the .052, as well as I remember.
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From: Florida
Do not regap?? Why, will the electrodes break if you do???? 
Cheap German crapola!!!! Never liked Bosch anyway. The electrodes are probably made out of some material that will stress crack if you bend them, that's probably why they don't run well in our trucks, because you can't set the exact correct gap. Yuky plug.
Ok, well plugs and filter and MAF and wires and all that and your still hesitating? Has got to be the injectors. Run a few cans of really good solvent through 10 gallons of gas per can. It's worth a shot and I bet that's the problem.
Tom
Cheap German crapola!!!! Never liked Bosch anyway. The electrodes are probably made out of some material that will stress crack if you bend them, that's probably why they don't run well in our trucks, because you can't set the exact correct gap. Yuky plug.
Ok, well plugs and filter and MAF and wires and all that and your still hesitating? Has got to be the injectors. Run a few cans of really good solvent through 10 gallons of gas per can. It's worth a shot and I bet that's the problem.
Tom
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From: B'ville, WV
Yeah, it sputters and hesitates until the RPMs reach a point, then it seems to smooth back out a little. I would tell you what the RPMs are except that I have a manual tranny XL, so therefore no tach. Well, except for the hidden digital tach. I could try that, I guess.
You are more than likely right. I'll bet I have a lot of build up in many places. I definitely wasn't exaggerating when I said 6 bottles of injector cleaner. Probably not even that many. That is why I was wondering about borrowing/renting the pressurized injector cleaner kit from Autozone. I think we were talking about that stuff a few days ago. I need to check on that. So much to do, so little time.
What engine cleaner/solvent are you using? You have told me once already. I'll write it down this time.
You are more than likely right. I'll bet I have a lot of build up in many places. I definitely wasn't exaggerating when I said 6 bottles of injector cleaner. Probably not even that many. That is why I was wondering about borrowing/renting the pressurized injector cleaner kit from Autozone. I think we were talking about that stuff a few days ago. I need to check on that. So much to do, so little time.
What engine cleaner/solvent are you using? You have told me once already. I'll write it down this time.
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From: Florida
I used, and am still using, Valvoline total engine care. Greased lightning is supposed to be good too. I've heard alot of people say that their hesitation went away after using SeaFoam, but I wouldn't know. My problem is not dirty injectors but is more serious. Thick carbon buildup on my cylinder heads and valves will take alot of cleaning to take off.
When you re-oiled your K&N, how long did you wait before you cleaned your MAF, cause it usually takes a while for the excess oil buildup on the MAF to start effecting drivability. If you cleaned your MAF right after you oiled your K&N, you may want to give it another squirt of contact cleaner.
When you re-oiled your K&N, how long did you wait before you cleaned your MAF, cause it usually takes a while for the excess oil buildup on the MAF to start effecting drivability. If you cleaned your MAF right after you oiled your K&N, you may want to give it another squirt of contact cleaner.
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