Air line layout
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From: chicopee us
Air line layout
Anyone have any layout ideas for a good, usable pattern to run the air lnes throughout a 24' wide by 28' deep garage/shop? I will be getting to this point fairly soon and need some ideas.
I was thinking a 3/4" from the compressor (with a flexible coupler), up through the attic, then drop down to 1/2" for the drops (3 or 4 spaced out on each wall). They will probably be run in the walls for the clean look with just the coupler sticking out of the wall. Any preference as to weather the quick coupler is pointing horizontally from the wall or vertically up/down the wall. Just thinking of not having the coupler sticking straight out for me to walk into.
What do you guys think...what works in the real world??
I was thinking a 3/4" from the compressor (with a flexible coupler), up through the attic, then drop down to 1/2" for the drops (3 or 4 spaced out on each wall). They will probably be run in the walls for the clean look with just the coupler sticking out of the wall. Any preference as to weather the quick coupler is pointing horizontally from the wall or vertically up/down the wall. Just thinking of not having the coupler sticking straight out for me to walk into.
What do you guys think...what works in the real world??
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Gainesville, FL
T,
I would recommend that the air line not be concealed at any point in the run. Leave it accessible for maintenance. A water trap should be installed at every drop. You are correct about avoiding having any coupler stick out where it could be tangled and snapped off. I would recommend mounting your main run over head. Each drop should only come down as little as possible. I like the idea of a retractable line that is ceiling mounted. I'm trying to say, leave them up high and out of the way, if possible. One main run down the center of the structure should give you optimal usage. Secondly, a 3/4" drop will be much more durable than a 1/2".
What material are you using? Copper or Steel?
Consider it,
KingFisher
I would recommend that the air line not be concealed at any point in the run. Leave it accessible for maintenance. A water trap should be installed at every drop. You are correct about avoiding having any coupler stick out where it could be tangled and snapped off. I would recommend mounting your main run over head. Each drop should only come down as little as possible. I like the idea of a retractable line that is ceiling mounted. I'm trying to say, leave them up high and out of the way, if possible. One main run down the center of the structure should give you optimal usage. Secondly, a 3/4" drop will be much more durable than a 1/2".
What material are you using? Copper or Steel?
Consider it,
KingFisher
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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In a small shop you can run it all 1/2, it will be plenty, the runs are short. It ay be more work to have the drops in the walls, you should have some kind of drip leg. Maybe run the Horiz overhead and the verts surface? I like surface as its easily changeable. I may be tempted to use hoses untill you figure out where things work out. That is way more hydrants than needed, lets face it, it isnt an airplane hanger. I would think 3, one in front and one in the middle of each wall. 25 ft hoses would reach anywhere or one on retractable reel hanging in the near front middle would cover the whole place.
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There is also a book on shop layout available from the online store here. There are also a number of threads here (including the archives) with information on air line layouts for the shop. Unfortunately the search function is unavailable at the moment but it will be back within a few days. You can also find information with Google using the information found in the feedback forum.
BTW- Leave the airlines exposed.
BTW- Leave the airlines exposed.
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The major thing to remember is make sure that there is plenty a tap’s to let water out of the line. Water is your enemy! If you have any other questions I could dig up couple of pictures from some book that I have. Just let me know.
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From: chicopee us
Well I guess my idea isn't too far off. I will be going inwall with the lines, I like the clean look and from my experience, how much maintenance is required on copper pipe? I was thinking of the 6 or 8 outlets because 1st) I hate running hoses all over the place 2nd) I will have some air benchtop power equipment, so I will have to place some extra outlets which will be connected at all times 3rd) copper is cheap and now is the time to run it, while the walls are open
Thanks for the input from all.
Thanks for the input from all.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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The lines won't cool right and drop the moisture out of the air if you run them inside the wall.
Make sure you get the right copper line. You will still need driplegs and valves to drain off moisture. Please reconsider running them on the surface.
You came here for advice but if you don't listen why did you ask?
Make sure you get the right copper line. You will still need driplegs and valves to drain off moisture. Please reconsider running them on the surface.
You came here for advice but if you don't listen why did you ask?
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From: chicopee us
Hey Torque,
What do you mean by "The lines won't cool right and drop the moisture out of the air if you run them inside the wall."
The walls will be insulted and the garage will be heated. So I see that the pipes will be insulated but I'm not sure I see how that will be a problem.
Not trying to be difficult, just want to understand better.
What do you mean by "The lines won't cool right and drop the moisture out of the air if you run them inside the wall."
The walls will be insulted and the garage will be heated. So I see that the pipes will be insulated but I'm not sure I see how that will be a problem.
Not trying to be difficult, just want to understand better.
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Brett Foote
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From: Gainesville, FL
TG,
When air is compressed there is a temperature rise. Simple enough. As the air cools down, water will start to condense. The way that air cools down is for the conveyance system, copper pipe, to reject heat to the atomsphere. If the pipe is confined in an insulated wall, that heat will have no where to go. Without this heat rejection you will not get any condensate until it hits your tools. This means that upon expansion in your tools(discharging process), you are going to get condensate blowing out all over everything, (i.e. Condensate blowing out your paint gun will suck, condensate blowing out of a sandblaster sucks as well, and condensate blowing out of a DA offset orbital sander sucks pretty bad also).
Consider it,
KingFisher
When air is compressed there is a temperature rise. Simple enough. As the air cools down, water will start to condense. The way that air cools down is for the conveyance system, copper pipe, to reject heat to the atomsphere. If the pipe is confined in an insulated wall, that heat will have no where to go. Without this heat rejection you will not get any condensate until it hits your tools. This means that upon expansion in your tools(discharging process), you are going to get condensate blowing out all over everything, (i.e. Condensate blowing out your paint gun will suck, condensate blowing out of a sandblaster sucks as well, and condensate blowing out of a DA offset orbital sander sucks pretty bad also).
Consider it,
KingFisher
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From: Sapulpa OK
Sounds like some good advice given by these guys. The only things I can add is to slope the pipe downward to allow for condensate to flow to a dripleg at the lowpoint. Also making a big loop around your garage will improve flow. Another point I would suggest that each drop exit the header pipe from the top. Also bear in mind that moisture traps only remove liquid water. Any condensation taking place past the trap will result in more water . Do everything practical to cool the air between the compressor and the receiver. An effective aftercooler will remove about 60% of the moisture and cause it to fall out in the air receiver where you can drain it away.
Good luck
Good luck
Posting Legend
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The tank is the first "air cooler" after that the lines are used to reduce the air temp and condense the moisture out of the air. Now that the search function is working again look at some of the airline layout threads here and in the G&W archives. There are many nice layout drawings and suggestions for removing water etc.
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From: Aberdeen, WA
Air Line LAyout
There's a suggested air line layout at: http://www.tptools.com/statictext/ai...ng-diagram.pdf
Posting Legend
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That diagram is a good one. It shows the air "drops" coming off the top of the distribution pipe and the drip leg with a riser to the outlets. It shows a final drip leg off the main line to drain moisture. All the lines slope away from the compressor so the water runs by gravity with the flow of air. They show more valves than you probably need in a home shop since it is a "production" type environment. You need a ball valve or petcock at each drip leg to drain water and a ball valve in the outlet from the tank to isolate the distribution pipes for service.
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Air Lines
It also spells out in no uncertain terms the use of iron pipe and why!
This just re-enforces what Torque1st stated.
The connections and etc are up to the individual user.
They are trying to sell their 'kits' and make a nice profit.
Local home supply shops around here will thread each piece of pipe free for the buyer.
Now they won't take a 10' piece and cut it into 5 pieces and thread every one, but they will work with you.
The operational word is PLAN the job out.
This just re-enforces what Torque1st stated.
The connections and etc are up to the individual user.
They are trying to sell their 'kits' and make a nice profit.
Local home supply shops around here will thread each piece of pipe free for the buyer.
Now they won't take a 10' piece and cut it into 5 pieces and thread every one, but they will work with you.
The operational word is PLAN the job out.
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Ok... I'm sold... I was going to use copper, but now I'll go with steel. Was going to put it all in the wall/ceiling - now I'm not. 
Printed out that pdf. Nice. I'm guessing they went with additional valves so you can drain the system without depressurizing it.
One question: black pipe or GRS? While GRS costs a bit more, wouldn't it be less prone to rust?
Printed out that pdf. Nice. I'm guessing they went with additional valves so you can drain the system without depressurizing it.
One question: black pipe or GRS? While GRS costs a bit more, wouldn't it be less prone to rust?