I have a 95 Ranger with 2.3L, 93000 miles. I have just replaced the timing belt, but I am quite confused over the tensioning procedure. My VERY UNINFORMATIVE Haynes manual says that I must apply 30 Ft. Lbs. of pressure on the tensioner, before I can tighten the pivot and adjustment bolt. It says NOT to rely on the spring to apply enough tension on the belt. I managed to move the tensioner a little bit to get some tension, but now my tensioner is making a whirring sound, when the engine is running. It sounds like the roller bearing is being stressed from overtension. Can anyone give me some good advice on how to safely & correctly make this adjustment? Thanks FTE members.

 

If not done:
Loosen tensioner adjusting bolt.
Using Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A, pry tensioner clockwise against spring tension as far as possible.
Tighten adjusting bolt to hold tensioner in released position.
Align crankshaft so number one piston is at TDC (top dead center) with crankshaft key pointing straight up and circle on crankshaft sprocket (6306) aligned with notch in engine front cover (6019) .
Align triangle on camshaft sprocket with triangle on inner timing belt cover.
Align diamond on oil pump sprocket with diamond on inner timing belt cover.

Install timing belt over crankshaft sprocket . Then, proceeding counterclockwise, over oil pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket.
Loosen tensioner adjusting bolt allowing tensioner pulley to press against timing belt.
NOTE: When performing the following step, do not rotate crankshaft counterclockwise as timing belt may jump a cog, putting camshaft or camshaft position sensor on oil pump out of time.

Rotate crankshaft two revolutions clockwise.
Bring crankshaft slowly, without stopping, to number one cylinder firing position (keyway directly up).
Recheck timing mark alignment. Repeat steps if timing marks are not properly aligned.
Rotate tensioner assembly against belt with torque wrench up to 41-45 Nm (30-33 lb-ft) and tighten adjusting bolt.
Tighten adjusting bolt to 35-45 Nm (26-33 lb-ft).
Tighten spring pivot bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).

 

Most of this makes sense to me, except the 30 to 33 lbs. of torque on the tensioner. What tool is available to make this measurement possible? Is it the T74P-6245-A Belt Tension Tool? And if so, is this a Ford product only, or a specialty tool manufacturer? I have not seen this tool in any automotive supply store, or on the internet.

The other thing I don't understand is the caution about the CCW rotation on the crankshaft. This CCW rotation was inevitable, as I removed the main pulley bolt. I'd guess that the crankshaft rotated a good 90 degrees or more, in the CCW direction. I'd like to know why you're not supposed to go CCW. Does it have anything to do with the valve train assy. on the cyl. head? I did notice that I had a loud rapping sound coming from the valve assy., when I first started the motor after replacing the timing belt. The sound went away after 5 minutes or so. But it sounded like a hydraulic lifter was not pumping up, or there was excessive tappet clearance for some other reason. I have never heard any rapping sound in this motor, prior to changing the timing belt. The rapping sound is gone, but my timing belt tensioner is not spinning quietly. There is a slight squealing sound that is apparent through all RPM ranges, but mostly apparent at idle. Do I need to replace the tensioner now, or is there simply too much tension on the belt, causing the roller on the tensioner to squeal? This tensioner never made a "peep" with the original timing belt in place, all the way up to 93,000 miles.

Can someone please solve these mysteries for me? Thanks!

 

>Most of this makes sense to me, except the 30 to 33 lbs. of
>torque on the tensioner. What tool is available to make
>this measurement possible? Is it the T74P-6245-A Belt
>Tension Tool? And if so, is this a Ford product only, or a
>specialty tool manufacturer? I have not seen this tool in
>any automotive supply store, or on the internet.
>
>The other thing I don't understand is the caution about the
>CCW rotation on the crankshaft. This CCW rotation was
>inevitable, as I removed the main pulley bolt. I'd guess
>that the crankshaft rotated a good 90 degrees or more, in
>the CCW direction. I'd like to know why you're not supposed
>to go CCW. Does it have anything to do with the valve train
>assy. on the cyl. head? I did notice that I had a loud
>rapping sound coming from the valve assy., when I first
>started the motor after replacing the timing belt. The
>sound went away after 5 minutes or so. But it sounded like
>a hydraulic lifter was not pumping up, or there was
>excessive tappet clearance for some other reason. I have
>never heard any rapping sound in this motor, prior to
>changing the timing belt. The rapping sound is gone, but my
>timing belt tensioner is not spinning quietly. There is a
>slight squealing sound that is apparent through all RPM
>ranges, but mostly apparent at idle. Do I need to replace
>the tensioner now, or is there simply too much tension on
>the belt, causing the roller on the tensioner to squeal?
>This tensioner never made a "peep" with the original timing
>belt in place, all the way up to 93,000 miles.
>
>Can someone please solve these mysteries for me?
>Thanks!