Hey i got a question or 2 i got a 75 highboy with a 360 and its startin to knock abit could a guy pull it a part and just rering and get new gaskets and bearings and oil pump ect. just like a quick little rebuild maybe a little cam the lifters r tickin, it dosent smoke just a little knock and if i have to get the crank turned do i have to rebalance the motor? well thanks help!

 

That sounds like a rebuild to me. you won't really know until you get in there and take some measurements.

on a good note, these FEs are known for running a long time with knocks, leaks, misses, ticks and various other noises and smells :-) Kinda like me :-)

 

If you had the parts in your shop, and were good, and your machine shop was fast, you could have a complete rebuild done in 4-7 days and have it running in no time. If your going to pull it why not just go the whole way? Get everthing done now and you wont have to worry about it later.

 

Too many variables to work with... If you want the $400 rebuild, take it apart and put it back together with fresh parts and a new cam and lifters. If it goes to the machine shop, you will end up spending at least $1000. Which will last longer and run stronger?

--Mike

 

thanks for the input! should i storke it to a 390 or will it make good power as a 360? my friend has a Z71 "detroit reject" as me and my dad call it lol. his has alot of mid range to it and reves up quick could that 360 do that? yeah i know its alot more heaver than the 1/2 ton z but i would like to give him a good run for it, any more i dont care about gas miles i wont drive it everyday so if yall know what it will take let me know. but i wanna stay with the block i have 360 and or stoke it to a 390+ oh and what stall converter should i get' i think i have 3.54's im gonna put a gear reduction in the trans ya know like 1st is 10% lower and 2nd is 5% lower and 3rd is stock one to one, i think that will help and then i can maybe get 36's i have 33's now and it should have alittle more umph lol i hope well thanks for the advise!

 

That 75 will have a hard time keeping up with the Z if you put in a gear reduction. You will basically run out of air in the upper gears and will be left behind.... The FE is an excellent low end motor with plenty of torque, perfect for a 4x4 beast. That Z is more of a daily driver geared more towards the street...

JMO --Mike

 

Definately stroke it to 390. The following is copied from another of my posts:

1. Buy a 390 crank and a set of 390 rods. This makes things 100% easier, and they're not that expensive. If you have a junkyard close to you, F250's commonly have 390's in them.
2. Check your block's bore. If it's tapered (which it most likely is) get it bored. Also, check the bores for dimension at the bottom, under where the rings ran. Stock was 4.050". Any more and it's been overbored before. At any rate, get it bored for the next oversize. If it's currently at stock bore diameter the size you want is 4.080", which is a .030" overbore. Get your pistons first and your machinist can fit them to the block when he bores it, as per the piston manufacturers recommended bore clearance.
3. Get a set of KB-Silvolite 1131 cast pistons, with the 1.76" compression height. These will give you good compression and are affordable. Just dont run nitrous in it.
4. Run your stock 360 heads, but port them. You can save money by doing it yourself. I got an air-power rotary tool and a set of stones at the local Farm & Fleet for under $30. Polish the chambers if you have time, it helps prevent ping and should allow you to run more timing and / or lower octane gas.
5. Get an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, and make sure the intake ports in the heads match the ports in the new intake manifold. The intake gasket works good for a reference. Get a Holley 600cfm vacuum secondary carburetor to go with it.
6. Get the Crane 343941 cam. Also get new lifters and matching valve springs.
7. Get a set of adjustable rocker arms. This allows you to accurately set lifter preload. Dont forget to get the matching ball and cup pushrods, the standard ones will not work.
8. Get a set of headers, and run dual exhaust. I'm running Hedman's on mine. Also, get a set of Victor Nitroseal header gaskets, they dont leak.
9. Of course, a full gasket set, bearing set, and rings.

Edit: I'd use 3.73 gears with the stock converter.

 

thanks for the imput! by the way what is the size of that crane cam lift and dur.?

 

Stats will be listed in the intake/exhaust format:

.533"/.563" lift, with 1.76:1 ratio rockers
272/284 duration

 

WOW! aint that to big to run with stock stuff converter and 3.54 gears? and how is the valve to piston clearance?

 

No, it's fine with the stock converter. Read the description here.

Piston to valve clearance is fine.

Edit: Apparently the FTE software freaks out with my link. Here's a quote of the description from Crane:

"GOOD IDLE, DAILY USAGE AND OFF ROAD, TOWING, PERFORMANCE AND FUEL EFFICIENCY, 2600-3000 CRUISE RPM, 8.75 TO 10.75 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED. BASIC RPM 2000-5000"

 

hows the MPG with that cam? i still have the stock holley should i keep it or get something different? and what is the lowest jetting i can run to save some fuel ?

 

Along with the above build, the mileage should be better than stock.

As per jetting, you should read the plugs to determine proper jetting. They should be light tan color.

 

ok thanks for the help!!!!