shop air lines
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Hendersonville, TN
Schedule 40 (heavy wall) pvc works good and is easy to work with. Will hold the pressure no problem if glued right, and is pretty cheap too. Will never rust either. Secure it well at connectors though, because it can't take a lot of stress/pulling.
One other thing... If you are going to run water traps, don't install right at compressor. Put them as far away as possible, so the air can cool before it reaches them. They are more effective this way.
Had to edit this post after reading some other threads warning against pvc usage for compressed air. Used it for years in a commercial shop with no problems, but might have to re-think that in the future. I might still use it, but perhaps with some shielding.... if that doesn't run the price up to the point that it's equal to the alternatives....
One other thing... If you are going to run water traps, don't install right at compressor. Put them as far away as possible, so the air can cool before it reaches them. They are more effective this way.
Had to edit this post after reading some other threads warning against pvc usage for compressed air. Used it for years in a commercial shop with no problems, but might have to re-think that in the future. I might still use it, but perhaps with some shielding.... if that doesn't run the price up to the point that it's equal to the alternatives....
Last edited by 200000+F150; Oct 16, 2004 at 01:47 AM.
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From: Ohio
Not saying I am right, PVC is a direct explosive when shattered by impact. I know it has a high burst pressure, but when contacted by an object it will explode.
Stay with the metal for safety.
Stay with the metal for safety.
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From: West Chester PA
Please read the third and forth post of this thread...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=99689
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=99689
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Northwest Indiana
Did you have plenty of volume? I hear people saying that 3/4 would be better but I will only be using the shop myself and I can only use 1 tool at a time. Besides if you have 1/2 coming out of the compressor how could you get more volume than that? I have started with the 1/2 and I am figuring out the drops as I go. One tip I've learned is putting tees in place of couplers that way you can add on in the future if nesassary.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Middle Ga.
Warning!! This is something I know from personal experience do not use pvc. I used it in my shop for years with no problems then one day I turned on my compressor wnen it knocked off this stuff exploded with unbelievable force.A friend told me later that oil from compressors affects both pvc and glue joints. I was very lucky it was like a hand grenade going off.Also be aware black iron rusts internally and pieces will pass thru your expensive air tools.I also learned this the hard way. Use the grey sch.80 it won't explode like white sch.40.It
is not that much more expense.
is not that much more expense.
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From: Oregon
Eric has a sticky post at the top of this forum with lots of great info on why NOT to use any type of PVC for pressurized air lines. This subject has really been beat to death over the years and is really beyond debate. Please don't use PVC for compressed air. Yes, they make a special compound for compressed gases, but it's a special order, ($$$), item - not readily available at the hardware store.
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Joined: Dec 1999
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DO NOT USE PVC OR CPVC, EITHER SCHEDULE 40 OR SCHEDULE 80, FOR COMPRESSED AIR!
Please read the FAQ's at the top of the 'Garage and Workshop' forum page. It is not designed for this type of application. It is only designed for the conveyance of liquids.
As a Pipefitter/Plumber w/ 15+ years experience, My first recommendation would be threaded galvinized pipe. A 3/4" main, for added volume, with 1/2" branches. At the bottom of my drops I would install tees; pull my air off the side outlet, install a 6" nipple and ball valve on the bottom outlet to trap water and pipe scale.
A copper tube system could be used, but I have always used a brazing alloy, such as J.W. Harris Dynaflow. The problem with this is the high torch temp, needed to make the joint, may cause a fire or an explosion. Also, after the installation is complete, make sure to " blow down" each branch. The oxidation caused by the high heat will leave a black residue in the system which should be removed prior to use.
A 'Soft' solder could be used if vibration from compressor is isolated. With any compressed air/copper system, use at least "L" copper tube. "M" copper has too thin of a sidewall and is to easily pierced.
Please read the FAQ's at the top of the 'Garage and Workshop' forum page. It is not designed for this type of application. It is only designed for the conveyance of liquids.
As a Pipefitter/Plumber w/ 15+ years experience, My first recommendation would be threaded galvinized pipe. A 3/4" main, for added volume, with 1/2" branches. At the bottom of my drops I would install tees; pull my air off the side outlet, install a 6" nipple and ball valve on the bottom outlet to trap water and pipe scale.
A copper tube system could be used, but I have always used a brazing alloy, such as J.W. Harris Dynaflow. The problem with this is the high torch temp, needed to make the joint, may cause a fire or an explosion. Also, after the installation is complete, make sure to " blow down" each branch. The oxidation caused by the high heat will leave a black residue in the system which should be removed prior to use.
A 'Soft' solder could be used if vibration from compressor is isolated. With any compressed air/copper system, use at least "L" copper tube. "M" copper has too thin of a sidewall and is to easily pierced.
Last edited by Smokin_Superduty; Oct 17, 2004 at 09:15 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Northwest Indiana
i think some things can't be improved with time. screwing together steel pipe is one of those things. i plumbed 1 shop with pvc and i really wasn't crazy about it. it was too flimsy when you connected or disconnected your air lines. i don't work there anymore so i don't have to worry about getting blown up but i'm going with the steel.....
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Thanks guys for watching out for people while I was gone this weekend. I had a Boy Scout Camporee to attend. Loads of fun!
You might want to warn the owner or workers in that "other shop" about the hazards before someone is injured or killed.
PVC is great for sewer pipe but I use copper for water and steel for air. 3/4" runs with 1/2" drops should be quite adequate for home shops. Read what Smokin_Superduty has to say above.
Originally Posted by maverick man
i think some things can't be improved with time. screwing together steel pipe is one of those things. i plumbed 1 shop with pvc and i really wasn't crazy about it. it was too flimsy when you connected or disconnected your air lines. i don't work there anymore so i don't have to worry about getting blown up but i'm going with the steel.....
PVC is great for sewer pipe but I use copper for water and steel for air. 3/4" runs with 1/2" drops should be quite adequate for home shops. Read what Smokin_Superduty has to say above.