67 390 headers
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Stanton,Ne
67 390 headers
Hi folks. I'm hoping maybe somebody can help me with this. I've got a 76 Super Cab F250. Awhile back I swapped in a 1967 390 out of a LTD. I also used the 67 trans. My problem is that when I go to look for headers to put on it all I find is a one year application for the 67 only. What I was wondering is if the headers listed for the LTD will fit in GW without any major mods? Also can anybody tell me why the 67 is such a one year wonder when it comes to headers? I ran into the same problem when I had a buddy rebuild the trans. He could find rebuild kits for both older and newer multi year applications but had to buy everything for this one seperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 102
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From: Stanton,Ne
67 390 headers
Thanks for the reply elemint. My problem is I pulled a 390 motor and c6 trans out of a 67 LTD and dropped it in my 76 F250 Super Cab. I know that they didn't put 390's in trucks in 67. What i'm wondering is if I can use the car headers on my truck without to many mods. By the way do you have any idea why the 67 390 is a one year only listing for so many parts? Anyway thanks again for the reply if I can help you out in any way reasonable (ha-ha) let me know.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Anything 352, 360, or 390 for a truck 65-76 will work. The engines are all the same in the exhaust area.
You don't want to try to put car headers in. The ports are the same but the routing will be different.
John
You don't want to try to put car headers in. The ports are the same but the routing will be different.
John
New User
Joined: Aug 2004
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I have headers on my 67 and I hate them. They work great but give off to much heat and then my starter gets hot and wont start the truck until it cools off for awhile Oh by the way I have a 390 in mine also. Not trying to talk you out of headers just something to think about.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
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From: Westminster, Colorado
My truck is either a 67 or a 69....this is something I'm still sorting out....but I have the 360/390 FE engine with headers.....here's what you need to look into...Do you have a 4x4? My engine has what is called the "front sump" oil pan which holds less oil than the "rear sump" varieties and the "front sump" sits right over your front axle, so one good bang and you're done! I haven't been able to put my "rear sump" pan in yet because the current headers are too close together for the rear sump to fit....so that is to say, there may be several different headers that will fit the exhaust ports, but make sure you have clearance for your sump.....Jeg's offers several "build it yourself" custom header kits than can be welded into where they CAN fit by a muffler shop. If anyone knows about which "out of the box" headers will fit, please let me know.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 29
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From: Patagonia AZ
Its not that all headers are bad, just cheap ones.
I like "stans" headers with the thick flange. And have them coated (jethot) either by the header mfg, or afterwards.
Get a thermo blanket kit for the starter from one of the hot rod places and wrap the starter to give it some insulation and radiant barrier for the heat from the headers. If you have an aftermarket hotrod starter adjust the clocking of the mounting flange to get the max. space between it and the headers.
Use the best gaskets you can get for the headers, and good bolts; get new ones from arp or from Stans. I like the solid copper gasket from Mr. Gasket.
Use No sieze if you have alum heads.
Have your header back exhaust system supported by its own hangars so the weight of the pipe and mufflers is not being supported by the headers. Also, the engine moves, the headers move so make sure the exhaust system has some flex to it to allow for the engine torque.
Good luck!
I like "stans" headers with the thick flange. And have them coated (jethot) either by the header mfg, or afterwards.
Get a thermo blanket kit for the starter from one of the hot rod places and wrap the starter to give it some insulation and radiant barrier for the heat from the headers. If you have an aftermarket hotrod starter adjust the clocking of the mounting flange to get the max. space between it and the headers.
Use the best gaskets you can get for the headers, and good bolts; get new ones from arp or from Stans. I like the solid copper gasket from Mr. Gasket.
Use No sieze if you have alum heads.
Have your header back exhaust system supported by its own hangars so the weight of the pipe and mufflers is not being supported by the headers. Also, the engine moves, the headers move so make sure the exhaust system has some flex to it to allow for the engine torque.
Good luck!
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Stanton,Ne
thanks
Thanks people for your help with this. To jowilker, I really appreciate the info on the exhaust. Every time I would go to look up headers to fit the 67 motor it only showed a 1 year application, so I was'nt sure if there was a difference in port design,size,or bolt patterns or what. But if there's no difference on those points that means I can go ahead and get some good quality headers that are designed for GW and not have to worry about keeping them pristine in case I have to return them. I still have the front sump pan on GW and it's 2wd. So if anybody sees any other problems I'll be more than willing to listen. Oh heres an fyi in case anybody needs it. The older 390's, I think it's 64 and back will not bolt directly in to the newer trucks as they don't have the second set of motor mount holes in the block like the newer ones do. You have to move the mount towers back and then weld them to the frame. I know that now I didn't then. Quick question before I forget. Can I put a 63 390 4bbl intake on that old 67 motor and still have all my vaccum hook ups? Thanks again for your help. This is the best site I've found to help me with this stuff.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 839
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From: outback
After a lot of looking into the 67 header issue i have found what the deal is. If you have 67 factory power steering there are issues with fitting most headers although some of the more expensive ones (FPA) seem to work. If you have manual steering or a later year PS upgrade you can use headers for any 68-72 F250 set up. GL
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I run Hooker Super comps on my truck. I have installed power steering from a 76 and had no problems with it. The butt kicker I have is with them killing starters. I never turn my engine over 4000 rpms and the headers are of no real value.
John
John
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: outback
Originally Posted by jowilker
I run Hooker Super comps on my truck. I have installed power steering from a 76 and had no problems with it. The butt kicker I have is with them killing starters. I never turn my engine over 4000 rpms and the headers are of no real value.
John
John
I wonder if a header and starter wrapped in shielding would do the trick. I think headers would help me and i dont run over 4k rpm either. Just looking at those manifolds makes me suffocate. I am sure the reason so many FEs have blown exhaust manifold gaskets is do to the lack of flow.