engine cut out
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Bridgewater, NJ
The 4 injectors Ford replaced threw a CEL. They replaced 1 and put it back together and it threw a CEL for a different injector on the right bank which is the hard side to work on When they went in to replaced the 2nd one they replaced the other 2. They would not replaced the 4 left bank injectors. By the way these were the old C93 injectors.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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unplugging egr was just a temp fix.problum is getting worse.i pulled and cleaned the back pressure senser,no help. truck cutting out almost as if im being pulled back and then released.going uphill floored 35-45 mph.when i let off i hear a slapping metal noise. which ive been told is turbo back pressure and nothing to worry about.possable icp? how do i check it? pulling my hear out here.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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cut out problem solved
pulled my turbo today. vanes would not move,cleaned it up and truck drives great.put some never seize lub on turbo and both sides of plate to keep it from happening again.I've put 105,000 miles on the truck in 3.5 years only problem i've had.i've always been told this only happens to turbos when the truck isn't driven much.guess not.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by fhedrsl
pulled my turbo today. vanes would not move,cleaned it up and truck drives great.put some never seize lub on turbo and both sides of plate to keep it from happening again.I've put 105,000 miles on the truck in 3.5 years only problem i've had.i've always been told this only happens to turbos when the truck isn't driven much.guess not.
Do you have a boost gauge? My truck (04') is acting up the same, took it to the dealer and they said the EGR is sticking. But I have had the EGR unplugged for 6 months and it has ran fine, until recently. They plugged it back in and it still threw a EGR code, they had to order an EGR kit. They unplugged the EGR and sent me on my way. But when it acts up it cuts out, and my boost gauge doesn't flicker, which makes me think it's an electrical problem (ICP). Just curious if you had a boost gauge that showed a different reading when this happened. Glad you found out what was wrong.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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To check if the vanes are locked up,on the left front of the turbo as you are facing it from the engine compartment is a wire plug-in. Disconnect the wire,below the device that the wire plugs into is a bolt,remove it and pull the device out.On the right rear of the turbo is an approximately 2-3" tubular appendage. using a mirror to view the end you will see a locking ring. Use a small hooked pointed screw driver and remove the ring. The center of the plug is threaded, screw in a bolt and remove it by pulling in back and forth motions.it is held in by an o-ring. Once the plug is pulled use a pocket magnet on the cylinder inside.It should move 2-2.5 inches back and forth.If it does not move then vanes are stuck. you have to remove before mentioned device. cylinder will not move with it in.when replaceing the device you may have to tap it with a small hammer to set it.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Originally Posted by fhedrsl
pulled my turbo today. vanes would not move,cleaned it up and truck drives great.put some never seize lub on turbo and both sides of plate to keep it from happening again.I've put 105,000 miles on the truck in 3.5 years only problem i've had.i've always been told this only happens to turbos when the truck isn't driven much.guess not.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
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It's already been tested with positive results from the diesel tech society.www.forddoctorsdts.com
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by fhedrsl
To check if the vanes are locked up,on the left front of the turbo as you are facing it from the engine compartment is a wire plug-in. Disconnect the wire,below the device that the wire plugs into is a bolt,remove it and pull the device out.On the right rear of the turbo is an approximately 2-3" tubular appendage. using a mirror to view the end you will see a locking ring. Use a small hooked pointed screw driver and remove the ring. The center of the plug is threaded, screw in a bolt and remove it by pulling in back and forth motions.it is held in by an o-ring. Once the plug is pulled use a pocket magnet on the cylinder inside.It should move 2-2.5 inches back and forth.If it does not move then vanes are stuck. you have to remove before mentioned device. cylinder will not move with it in.when replaceing the device you may have to tap it with a small hammer to set it.
) I was pulling my enclosed trailer (4,500lbs) tonight and it started acting up again. I have to go up a very steep hill. At WOT I was reading 1100(egt) and pulling 29 psi of boost and 45mph before the crest of the hill. When we leveled out and I went back to light throttle control to maintain speed (both windows were down) It started cutting out again. It kinda of sounded like a clicking or tapping sound. I need this truck to pull our trailer every day so it's impossible to drop my truck off, and they laugh when I request a rental. But it is starting to act up a lot so I have to take it in. Thanks for more thoughts or ideas.
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Willow ,Alaska
first off the dealer has to give you a loaner if its still under warrenty, if you have to call ford customer care THEY WILL call the dealer, mine had the flight recorder on it this weekend drove 150 miles each way on the way to my cabin it missed/cut out on almost every hill or slight grade got them 3 good records and was hoping to get the 4th today on the way home.......... didn't miss/cutout but once and stopped doing it before i could get the button pushed.. ford tech wants all the info from this one . we'll see what they have to say after they read it. i''ve told the dealer to find me another truck if it's not fixed after this
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Mine was doing the same think at first. only on long uphill grades.it did it for months and then it kept getting worse.The dealership would only give me a rental car.said thier insurance would not cover me hauling a trailer and having my own commercial insurance was no help. I like you am on the road every night.so every time thay kept my truck it cost me jobs.I didn't have any guages in the truck.and the dealership always said they could not duplicate.after my warranty was up i took maters into my own hands and confurmed what i thought all along.TURBO.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 127
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From: NE Ohio
Just got my truck back.(04 6.0 54,000mi 3/04) I went in for an EGR and came home with a new turbo. The tech noticed excessive coking in the intake and and performed TSB 06-25-14. (what is this?) Vehicle failed internal turbo oil leak. Hot side of turbo was full of oil and CAC hoses were soft. So he replaced the turbo and cleaned the egr. I was excited until I drove it. The truck is a complete dog now, there is a huge lag and even when the lag is over it doesn't throw me into the seat like it did before. Should I unplug the EGR again? Also does anyone think the intake should have been pulled to clean "excess coking"?