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Is there any reasons against using soldiered copper pipe for compressed air lines? I've being using them for years and have had no problems. I was thumbing through my owners manual for my Quincy the other morning (all this talk of compressors made me have to get it out) and it says not to use piping with leaded joints. It doesnt give any reasons and I can find any on the net. There are a lot of shops I know of that use copper and havent heard of any problems either. Can someone enlighten?
Supposedly, pulse vibration will eventually cause the copper and/or soldered joints to fail. Like you, I've seen many copper installations with no problems YET.
I think the big trick is using a section of hose from your compressor to your piping to absorb the vibrations caused by the compressor. If you do that it shouldn't be a problem.
Good point about using a flex line between the compressor and hard pipe. I don't know if the installs I've seen had this feature, but if so that's probably why they've been trouble-free.
Look thru some of the old posts here on shop air systems, check the archives too. There were a few posts on the specs that copper air lines had to meet for compressed air. I am not sure if the standard water type copper pipe is OK for compressed air service. It may need special pipe and special solder or brazing etc. I just use iron pipe. I prefer galvanized pipe but black pipe seems to be the preferred material.
If you silver solder the joints on copper pipe there is no reason it would not be okay. Large air conditioning and refrigeration systems use copper pipe and have much higher pressures than air systems. The joints are silver soldered.
I have never heard of copper being a problem, other than the possibility of soldering flux contamination in sensitive air usage situations like say, air lines for auto spray painting. The pressure rating on any copper used should be rated more than the air compressor maximum output, of course. And it is always best to use a flexible metal hose connection from the a/c tank oulet to the first piece of piping downstream anyway. I piped my garage in with 3/4 in . black pipe because I did not want to use a torch flame against the wood members, and it has served me well. jmo
Hi,
If you do a google search on pvc (which I'm assuming you mean
when you talk about plastic pipes) you'll find some OSHA and
building code sites specifically calling PVC unacceptable in
pressurized gas lines. The problem is a compressed gas
contains alot of energy and it there is a crack/split in the
PVC it'll shatter and the shards will become projectiles.
Kind of like your own little hand granade.
I've seen it used in shops but the code said it had to be
encased so the shards couldn't escape.
Our shop has solid copper straight off the compressor, never had a problem. And we run 220psi due to long runs of pipe all the way around the shop, or maybe because nobody adjusts the cut-off.
My shop has SCH40 plastic. I've been using it for six years. Some is even in the attic, gets real hot. I think the new plastic also has a temp rating for hot water that gives it a higher PSI. The PSI rating is marked on it. Make sure you use the precleaner before the glue.
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