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My brothers 2.9L EFI will not start, i would start before, right after the engine was rebuilt... it would sit and purr like a kitten... it sounds stupid but we put a transmission dipstick and fan on it and it stopped?? any ideas? we've changed the map sensor, brain, and checked vaccum and its getting fuel... its got compression, it tries to suck your hand into the fuel injection if you hold it over it
its got all of us stumped... its either to the shop with it or put in a 3.8, which none of us want to do b/c it looks like it will be a royal PITA to take the 2.9 out... could it be the injectors or somethin else?? any help is appreciated..
I had a similar problem with my 86 BroncoII.
It had a 2.9 in it then, a new computer and all the
other good stuff. It just decided not to start one day.
I thought it was the computer, so I took it back to the shop
for warranty work and it turned out it was the distibutor
module. They are $29 at Autozone or $120 from ford. They are also a pain to get to. Hope this helps, it would sure be easier to try than changing the engine. I know because i just put a 5.0 in mine, and I even have a few hairs left that I didn't pull out.
Jim
Had the same problem with 88 full size. Had spark but no functioning injectors. Turned out the computer ground wire was corroded off. The computer ground wire is one of the two fine wires on the lug on the negative battery terminal. Another indication was the fuel pump would not buzz up for two seconds when the ignition key was first turned on to prepressurize. Let us know what the problem was when you figure it out.
Good Luck
well.. there is some kind of breaker box on the passenger side... its not working, has no power.. because of this.. we hot wired the fuel pump...up, and i also seem to belive that this little breaker box *for a lack of a better term* is the key to the fuel injectors not working... where does these little boxes hook up? they are on the fenderwall pasenger side near the firewall... any ideas? one is green *it works* the other is black or brown.. this is the one that doesn't work
then if its the black/brown relay... then the computer doesn't know when to fire the injectors am i correct? where does this relay tie into the wiring harness at??
The EEC relay has four wires going to it. The W/LB wire comes from the ignition switch and provides voltage to close the contacts when the key is on. The BLK wire goes to ground. The YEL wire should be hot at all times and is the power source for the EEC. The RED wire goes to the EEC and injectors to provide power when the relay is closed. The injectors work by getting a coded "ground" signal from the EEC. The EEC relay should click on as soon as the key is turned on. The pump relay should click on at the same time and than click off in about one second. This is just to prepressurize the fuel rail. When the key is in "start" the pump relay should click on again and stay on if the engine starts and continues to run. Is your ride doing any of that ???
the only one of the relays that are working is the green one... its getting gas at the fuel rail.. and if you spray some gas into the open end of the throttle body.. it will run until the gas runs out... its got to be that black relay... everything else works perfectly
This does not compute. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the EEC. If the EEC relay is not clicking on the EEC is not powering up and should not be able to function the fuel pump relay. Getting fire when gas is sprayed in the intake clearly suggests a fuel system problem. Spark at the plugs suggests that the TFI module is working. The fuel injectors are functioned by the EEC (read computer) and that is where the problem seems to be. Need to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail just to rule out a bad pump. There is a bicycle valve there on the rail for that purpose. Pressure should be about 45 psi when the engine is cranking. Need to confirm that the EEC ground wire is solidly connected to the battery negative lug. Also check the connector on the ground wire near the radiator support. Does the fuel pump buzz up for one second when the key is first turned on ?? If so, that would suggest that the EEC relay might be working. If the injectors are working, you can hear them with a mechanic's stethoscope while cranking.