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Tips on changing front U-Joints

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Old Oct 5, 2004 | 10:02 PM
  #1  
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Exclamation Tips on changing front U-Joints

I'd really apreciate if anyone would have any tips or tricks for me when changing front U-joints, its a freakin big job and I want to be 100% ready.

Local mechanic says its about 1.5 to 2 hours each wheel.... so ill almost be saving 200 $ bucks(canadian) I already have new joints, brand new 4 bearings would I need anything else ?

Thanx a lot

PL
 
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 10:11 AM
  #2  
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GrayRanger4x4
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From: Perry,Ga.
A good repair mannual and you will need the right scocket for the typ hubs mannul/auto thats on your BII,they are two diffrent ones.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 10:20 AM
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From: MARYLAND
dont really need a socket to loosen the retaining nuts..i use a 3/8 socket extension and tap on the extension with a hammer and it loosens with no damage. Also..on the axle shaft Ujoints..the clip is on the back side of the cap..so you have to tap the Ujoint to one side then remove the clip and then back to the other side and remove the clip then you can ban the cap thru.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 03:30 PM
  #4  
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onestrangebroncoII
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From: crossville tn
Lightbulb

god i hammered and hammered and hammered on my spline nut (retainer nut) with a 5 pound hammer and a piece of angle iron to pull my bearings!! now im 6'1" and 260 lbs of corn fed hillbilly mountain hippy meanness .on a skinny day i can bench 275lbs all day long and i could not get the nut to budge.....

i hammered until smacked my hand and dented the nut a little so i smartened up (thanx to you guys ) and got the 4 prong spline nut socket from auto zone for $17.99 and a big torque wrench and it came off a simple as pie with no effort .youll need to torque it back right anyway... save your self the busted nuckles and get the tool most Auto zones rent this socket but not mine i had to buy it....its good tool so whatever. the torque is something like 50lbs for the inside nut and 150 lbs for the outer nut

my trucks fixed for less than 20 bucks for the bearings and a $20 tool so im ok with it......and i learned yet another repair thing....

break it on Saturday fix it on Sunday

gett R done biggun
 
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 08:41 PM
  #5  
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onestrangebroncoII
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From: crossville tn
""Local mechanic says its about 1.5 to 2 hours each wheel.... so ill almost be saving 200 $ bucks(canadian) I already have new joints, brand new 4 bearings would I need anything else ?""



grab some new bearing seals and brake pads if ya need em

good luck
 
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #6  
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Unhappy

I just finished changing both front U-joints to find out that it was the stud shaft u-joint that was stuck !!!!

On top of that, I broke an autohub locker, my powersteering pump is now bleeding like a striked toro and and my wheel are totaly out of alignment.....

I tired of this crap, sry but I feel better now....
 
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 09:00 AM
  #7  
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GrayRanger4x4
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From: Perry,Ga.
Ain't the BII just great !!!! When you think you got it all fixed something else goes wrong .Got to love em!!

Just get a good set of manuals hubs,there cheaper then 1 auto hub.The ford PS pumps are not to good any way,so if its the one that came on your BII then you got the goody out of it anyway.If you had it jacked up in the front and have not drove it then the front wheels will be toed in at the bottom till you drive it some them it should settle down and look right.If thats not it recheck the wheel bearing torque again,just changing the u joints should not have changed the alignment.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 09:02 PM
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I repacked the bearings to be sure tonight and the thing is just really misaligned anyway my autohub is fine its just the plastic cam that is broken ill search in a scrap yard and check it out, And for the PS pump I have a replacment one at home from a recked BII but it ahd been changed its the black one but I dont have the tools to pull the pulley because it came of a cabed BII I cant bolt it on.

Im sending the rig to my mechanic (he has all the tools I dont

Hes going to replace the stub U-joint whitout removing the diff (he already did it before) and replace the faulty pump even if im starting to think its leaking from the box.... I hope I can fix it til winter....

THX
 
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Old Nov 14, 2004 | 09:14 PM
  #9  
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onestrangebroncoII
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From: crossville tn
sorry for bad info opps

[QUOTE=onestrangebroncoII]god i hammered and hammered and hammered on my spline nut (retainer nut) with a 5 pound hammer and a piece of angle iron to pull my bearings!! now im 6'1" and 260 lbs of corn fed hillbilly mountain hippy meanness .on a skinny day i can bench 275lbs all day long and i could not get the nut to budge.....

i hammered until smacked my hand and dented the nut a little so i smartened up (thanx to you guys ) and got the 4 prong spline nut socket from auto zone for $17.99 and a big torque wrench and it came off a simple as pie with no effort .youll need to torque it back right anyway... save your self the busted nuckles and get the tool most Auto zones rent this socket but not mine i had to buy it....its good tool so whatever. the torque is something like 50lbs for the inside nut and 150 lbs for the outer nut

my trucks fixed for less than 20 bucks for the bearings and a $20 tool so im ok with it......and i learned yet another repair thing....
...............


Opppsss
I had to replace a broken rotor a few days ago so i went to a upull junk yard and discovered that the spline nuts came off easy with just a little smack a socket extension to get it started then spuin right off mine was a hard job all the way off.. my bearings were gone so i bet ya the spline nut was pretty much welded on by melted bearing parts

sorry peoples I wish i had saved the $20


 
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