Misfire question
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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Misfire question
Hey!
My wife's '00 EB Expy has developed a hesitation under medium/heavy acceleration. My OBD II scanner says "Cyl. 8 Misfire detected" (or something like that). I erased the error code, drove it for about 5 more minutes, and it recorded the same code.
We're taking it back to the dealer who sold it to us 6 weeks ago but I'd like to get some idea of what he reasonably *should* do for us.
I'm thinking spark plugs (obviously) and then perhaps the injector. What else?
Many thanks!
-Sam
My wife's '00 EB Expy has developed a hesitation under medium/heavy acceleration. My OBD II scanner says "Cyl. 8 Misfire detected" (or something like that). I erased the error code, drove it for about 5 more minutes, and it recorded the same code.
We're taking it back to the dealer who sold it to us 6 weeks ago but I'd like to get some idea of what he reasonably *should* do for us.
I'm thinking spark plugs (obviously) and then perhaps the injector. What else?
Many thanks!
-Sam
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: North Carolina
How many miles are on it? I would tend to lean towards a Coil pack. If you have the 5.4 it doesn't have plug wires, it has COP's. This means that the coil sits directly on top of the plug. They do have a tendancy to go bad especially if they got wet and water sat on top of them. Good luck.... I hope you get it fixed.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: The Driftless Region
Coil Pack
Coil pack. 
Buy the part and change it yourself.
It is common. I have replaced 2 on my 2000 xlt.
What the dealer will do all depends on what kind of warranty you got when you bought it.
Buy the part and change it yourself.
It is common. I have replaced 2 on my 2000 xlt.
What the dealer will do all depends on what kind of warranty you got when you bought it.
Last edited by woodworx; Oct 3, 2004 at 08:21 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Orlando, Fla
Almost for sure its a COP, if your going to a Ford dealer or the like, they will charge you $99 for a new one, you can get one from your local parts supplier for around $48-52 depending. If your going to do this the #8 is a bitch, but doable with patience. If you pull the COP and only the top piece comes off, don't fret, its a 2 piece, pull the boot off the plug and inspect the spring and boot for a rust residue. It is probably the cause of the failure. I would replace the plug also, a fouled plug will show a misfire again. Before pulling the plug, blow out the recess so no unwanted matter gets into the cylinder. BTW a dealer will charge around $340 for this procedure, ...a good motivator for self-repairs.
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Hey!
Awesome info! I'll get on it tomorrow. I'm not familliar with COP, but I guess it can't be too bad. Truck has 73K on it. Only had it 6 weeks and I haven't gotten around to doing things like plugs, filters, tranny fluid, etc. Hardly even "own" it yet! :-)
-Sam
Awesome info! I'll get on it tomorrow. I'm not familliar with COP, but I guess it can't be too bad. Truck has 73K on it. Only had it 6 weeks and I haven't gotten around to doing things like plugs, filters, tranny fluid, etc. Hardly even "own" it yet! :-)
-Sam
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Hey!
I just got the job done. I'll take it for a test drive after dinner. Started up o.k.
Who the phawk thought it would be a good idea to make a simple spark plug change so FREAKING difficult? Had to pull wire to COP, bolt from COP, relieve fuel system pressure (safety, eh?), loosen/lift/move FUEL RAIL, remove COP, pull spark plug, install new plug (with 4 extensions and a wobble-joint), get the plug socket totally stuck inside the black hole of cyl 8's spark plug well, modify a valve puller to grab the socket inside the drive hole, remove socket, goop up all the parts of the COP with dielectric grease, poke it all back in there, drop the bolt 4 times into various pockets in the engine compartment, finally get it screwed down, push-pull-hope-pray the fuel injectors back into place, bolt the rail down, reconnect the inertia switch, start-er-up.
Sure hope it nailed my problem.
I've replaced I-6 manifolds & heads, pulled and rebuilt transfer cases & rearends, (some on the trail under my rig) etc., etc. But *THIS* was too complicated.
-Sam
I just got the job done. I'll take it for a test drive after dinner. Started up o.k.
Who the phawk thought it would be a good idea to make a simple spark plug change so FREAKING difficult? Had to pull wire to COP, bolt from COP, relieve fuel system pressure (safety, eh?), loosen/lift/move FUEL RAIL, remove COP, pull spark plug, install new plug (with 4 extensions and a wobble-joint), get the plug socket totally stuck inside the black hole of cyl 8's spark plug well, modify a valve puller to grab the socket inside the drive hole, remove socket, goop up all the parts of the COP with dielectric grease, poke it all back in there, drop the bolt 4 times into various pockets in the engine compartment, finally get it screwed down, push-pull-hope-pray the fuel injectors back into place, bolt the rail down, reconnect the inertia switch, start-er-up.
Sure hope it nailed my problem.
I've replaced I-6 manifolds & heads, pulled and rebuilt transfer cases & rearends, (some on the trail under my rig) etc., etc. But *THIS* was too complicated.
-Sam
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Lawton, Oklahoma
Originally Posted by psu1xj
Hey!
I just got the job done. I'll take it for a test drive after dinner. Started up o.k.
Who the phawk thought it would be a good idea to make a simple spark plug change so FREAKING difficult? Had to pull wire to COP, bolt from COP, relieve fuel system pressure (safety, eh?), loosen/lift/move FUEL RAIL, remove COP, pull spark plug, install new plug (with 4 extensions and a wobble-joint), get the plug socket totally stuck inside the black hole of cyl 8's spark plug well, modify a valve puller to grab the socket inside the drive hole, remove socket, goop up all the parts of the COP with dielectric grease, poke it all back in there, drop the bolt 4 times into various pockets in the engine compartment, finally get it screwed down, push-pull-hope-pray the fuel injectors back into place, bolt the rail down, reconnect the inertia switch, start-er-up.
Sure hope it nailed my problem.
I've replaced I-6 manifolds & heads, pulled and rebuilt transfer cases & rearends, (some on the trail under my rig) etc., etc. But *THIS* was too complicated.
-Sam
I just got the job done. I'll take it for a test drive after dinner. Started up o.k.
Who the phawk thought it would be a good idea to make a simple spark plug change so FREAKING difficult? Had to pull wire to COP, bolt from COP, relieve fuel system pressure (safety, eh?), loosen/lift/move FUEL RAIL, remove COP, pull spark plug, install new plug (with 4 extensions and a wobble-joint), get the plug socket totally stuck inside the black hole of cyl 8's spark plug well, modify a valve puller to grab the socket inside the drive hole, remove socket, goop up all the parts of the COP with dielectric grease, poke it all back in there, drop the bolt 4 times into various pockets in the engine compartment, finally get it screwed down, push-pull-hope-pray the fuel injectors back into place, bolt the rail down, reconnect the inertia switch, start-er-up.
Sure hope it nailed my problem.
I've replaced I-6 manifolds & heads, pulled and rebuilt transfer cases & rearends, (some on the trail under my rig) etc., etc. But *THIS* was too complicated.
-Sam
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Originally Posted by HomerWinzlow
Good training! As they used to say in the Army. You can never appreciate that estimate for labor from the shop if you dont give it a shot yourself once in awhile..
Anyway, I took it out on the highway for 1/2 hour and it ran like a champ. Quicker than I'd remembered. Nice feeling.
Thanks to all for the advice!
-Sam