I'm thinking about changing my own oil next time around. I think I have all the steps covered?

1) Make sure engine is at operating temp
2) Have proper tools: 19 mm wrench, oil filter strap/wrench, grease gun, 15 qt oil pan
3) Position oil catch container under oil pan, loosen oil pan bolt drain oil, take a sharp object punch hole in oil filter-let oil drain from filter/ remove filter
4) Tighten oil pan bolt, rub fresh oil on filter gasket, pour 1-1-1/2 qts oil oil into new filter, tigten filter until gasket seats
5) Pour in about 10 quarts oil, start engine let idle for a minute, stop engine, check oil, and add proper amount to bring to full mark, check again to make sure oil is on full mark
6) Grease fittings under front end (5) I believe?

Did I miss anything?

Thanks

 

What year truck do you have?

Sounds like you have all the bases covered. Not sure I would want my oil at full operating temperature. Maybe a little warm, but not hot enough to burn a trail of blisters if it happens to run down your arm into your armpit!

Also, you might want to consider the Fumoto valve (do a search), which may make the task a little easier.........

 

I need to look at the owners manual for my 2001, but how often do the greaseable front end parts require greasing? Also need to be careful to not over grease and blow apart the seals.

 

Get it to operating temp. This way you know you have all the dirty stuff entrained in the oil. Drain it but get something bigger than 15 quarts as I think it will have 15 in it. I would not punch a hole in the filter. What if you can't get it off? Then you will be in a mess. Just use the strap wrench and it will come off. Might get a little dirty but you will be safe then.

 

Having changed my own oil exclusively since I've owned my truck, I can tell you that the actual amount used to refill the crankcase to full varies by as much as 2 or 3 quarts. I'm not exactly sure where it "hides", but I've used as little as 12 quarts total and as much as 15 to bring it back up to full. I would also agree that punching a whole in the old filter before you at least loosen it is an invitation to disaster!

One other cheap piece of insurance that I do is to replace the copper washer on the drain plug every other oil change. They are meant to collapse and provide a seal, but they don't last forever. I use the copper/neoprene type available at most any auto parts store.

 

Yeah ya missed the most important step . When you are finished sit down and have a cold one of your choice and smile at a job well done !

 

Sounds like you've it covered but......go ahead and get a Fumoto drain valve they make it soooo easy and you don't get the hot oil running down your arm also if your going to punch a hole in the filter (I do) loosen it up a couple of turns first (don't ask how I figured this one out hehe) then get some 1 gallon ziplock bags when the filter is done draining put the bag over it and continue to remove the filter(thanks Quadzilla for this one) after a couple of times you'll be able to do it spill free and without knocking yourself silly when the hot oil runs into your arm pit

John

 

Thanks Guys,

The feedback and fine tuning of my posting is appreciated.

Thanks again

 

Just a suggestion that I started doing to all my vehicle oil changes years ago that make for a lot less mess. After draining the pan I always take one of my cordless drills with about an 1/8" to 3/16" drill bit in it and drill a hole somewhere in the bottom of the filter to drain it. Have a rag under there with you and emmediatly pull the drill to one side and wipe the bit off. Then I go do something else for a while till the filter is drained out totally and, WaLa.....A totally messless oil change, I got so tired of the oil draining down the side of the filters as soon as you break them free i had to come up with something. I used to hammer a hole in them but that was always a hassel. Drilling works perfectly every time. And in the off chance that you have a hard time turning the filter off and need to use some big channel locks you wont end up with a mess all over that beautiful shop or garage floor that you keep spotless, Good Luck...............

 

Is it bad if you dont put oil in the new filter?

 

I wouldn't go so far as to say "it's bad", but if you install the filter dry, then after you restart the engine the oil pump must first fill the filter canister before full pressure is delivered elsewhere, such as the bearings! Filling the filter first insures that the rest of the engine will receive oil pressure as soon as possible. The only time I don't fill the filter with oil is when the filter is mounted horizontally, or in a hard to reach postion that would require twisting and turning it to get it where it needs to be, in which case it would all run out as you attempt to screw it on. An engine like the PSD however, has the filter in a vertical, easy to reach position, so there is no chance of losing any.

 

I for one am against oiling the filter. Where you pour it in is the OUTLET of the filter. Whatever gets poured in goes straight to the engine unfiltered. If by chance something gets in there - well it goes to the engine bearings or the HPOP or ??? Upon restart the oil pressure guage jumps within 10 seconds anyway. Just stay off of the throttle for a ten count after the guage jumps and you're fine.

 

Thats a very interesting point Dan. I'll be changing mine today and I think I like your way of thinking. Many thanks.

 

How often are you guys changing the oil and filter? I have heard that some folks are running their oil 40,000 mile but changing only the filter at 3,000 and getting the oil tested every 3,000. Anyone have any thoughts or recommdations?

 

You'll never see me doing that. I don't care what the claims say about the "A" brand oil or whoever else might be offering something like that. You can buy a LOT of oil changes for the price of just one engine. I change my oil every 3000 and I use Mobil 1 synthetic.
When I was using dino oil it was every 2000 miles. Call me overkill or whatever you want. I have never had a breakdown.