I've been told that the camshaft itself is retarted on emissions-controlled 460 engines....mine is '76 so it should be this.... I've also been told that a timing chain swap from an earlier 460(say, '68 or '69) would bring the cam back straight (when adjusted to match) also giving quite a few more ponies(early 460's were rated at around 50 more horses than later). I'm heavily considering this swap out, if it's not do-able someone please let me know.
Thanks
Scott

 

You is correct, sir! IIRC, after '74 there were the retarded gears. Might I recommend a cheapy Summit double-roller set at the very least as a long-lasting replacement? I dunno about gaining 50 ponies by just putting the cam back where she should be. I think this is more likely a difference in cam specs and compression ratio, even power ratings gerrymandering. Definitely more low-end torque, at any rate. Better response and mileage, too, I expect. You will pick up ~50 horse by fixing those exhaust ports but good with a carbide burr (at valvejob time) and installing the cam straight up, however...

 

i installed a straight up set on my 460. my chain had 115k on it, very stretched. i definetly noticed more low end and throttle response but it wasnt an unbelievable amount. if yours needs a chain, and you are already in there you should replace it with a straight up set. i ordered mine for a 70 lincoln mark at the local auto parts. all it does by installing the cam more advanced is bring in your power band at a lower rpm, so if you want more axle twisting torque go for it...

 

Fixing the cam timing on the 460 will likely pick up power everywhere a little. For one thing, it's a low-period cam, which wants to build peak cylinder pressure at a lower RPM in the first place. For another thing, there's the restrictive exhaust ports (not to mention what's after them). Retarding that cam just basically equals more EGR in the midrange-top end, less dynamic cylinder pressure where you want it, and better emissions due to this kludge. If you really want a big kick in the cojones, throw in a RV cam, 600-750 CFM carb, headers+2 1/2" (minimum) duals, and fix the exhaust port roof. All that is worth a plate of ostrich-sized huevos!

The rationale goes as follows: "Well I have to take the timing cover off...aww geez, might as well throw in a new cam and lifters while I've gone this far...ok, ok, so the manifold comes off, so I might as well throw on a Weiand Stealth and a 750 instead of this mammoth hunk of iron...aww Jebus, this won't do as much as it could without headers and duals so they're going on too...aww damn! Now I need a new driveshaft!..."

All that potentially expensive rationale aside, just putting the cam timing back where it should be is a worthwhile endeavor, and even bolting on a garden-variety 1850 Holley 600 vacuum secondary (fatter main jets and bigger accelerator pump nozzle+pump cam tuning required) will be a good wakeup call.

 

As long as you are changing the timming chain, get a multi indexed sprocket and advance it by about 6 to 8 degrees, that will move your torque curve a little lower yet, giving you better low end torque where you need it for four wheeling or towing.

Michelle
Chelle's 56 Hauler

 

Well, I'm really just driving this truck for a little while until I find the time to put its body onto another truck of mine....the motor will then just be a spare.... So I really just want them to spin a little more rubber.....
Scott
PS...on another totally different subject- do ya'll know what the ignition timing specs- like to what degree it is supposed to be set, it feels off and apparently the only way to get the specs is on the emission sticker, which unfortunately none of my vehicles still have intact.

 

What altitude do you live? I live at 9,000 feet and I run my timing at 18 degrees. At lower altitudes you need to run less advance. The rule of thumb is you should advance timing by about 1 degree per thousand feet of altitude. IE, if the specs call for 10 degrees of timing, and you live @ 6,000 feet you should be running about 16 degrees. Also you would want to rejet your carb at the higher altitudes to smaller jets. These tips are for carberated and non computerized vehicles. The one degree per thousand feet is strictly a starting point and one should play with the timing a bit to find where the car or truck will run the best.

Michelle
Chelle's 56 Hauler

 

You are right most call for 10 deg. I personaly run 16 with a 60 over bore. and for information purpose it was 1972 the smog ***** made Ford retard the Cam