Ignition Switch Malfunction
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 537
Likes: 2
From: Alabama
Ignition Switch Malfunction
Hey guys.
I have an ignition switch opportunity. Ignition switch turns from lock to start, all dash lights light up ( battery, check engine,etc ), engine does not start and key lock cylinder does not return to run position. I have replaced the lock cylinder with a new one from the dealer,$29, no fixy. I removed the steering wheel and the inner most shroud closest to the dash. The actuator rod moves thru all postions while turning the key, so it appears that the rod is not broken, it's metal by the way. Have not tried to adjust the ignition switch, electrical part, because I was unsure about exactly where to put the 5/64" drill bit before loosening the attachment bolts. While the key is turned to actually past the normal start position and the dash lights are on, I can take a remote starter switch, fed thru the passenger side window, depress the clutch and the truck will start. I failed to mention this is a manual trans. After starting with R.S.S (Remote Starter Switch) the engine can be shutoff using the key by turning to the off position. Also I have nothing in the accessory position.
Suggestions Please
Sorry for the lengthy post.
guzzler96
I have an ignition switch opportunity. Ignition switch turns from lock to start, all dash lights light up ( battery, check engine,etc ), engine does not start and key lock cylinder does not return to run position. I have replaced the lock cylinder with a new one from the dealer,$29, no fixy. I removed the steering wheel and the inner most shroud closest to the dash. The actuator rod moves thru all postions while turning the key, so it appears that the rod is not broken, it's metal by the way. Have not tried to adjust the ignition switch, electrical part, because I was unsure about exactly where to put the 5/64" drill bit before loosening the attachment bolts. While the key is turned to actually past the normal start position and the dash lights are on, I can take a remote starter switch, fed thru the passenger side window, depress the clutch and the truck will start. I failed to mention this is a manual trans. After starting with R.S.S (Remote Starter Switch) the engine can be shutoff using the key by turning to the off position. Also I have nothing in the accessory position.
Suggestions Please
Sorry for the lengthy post.
guzzler96
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Starting woes
Dude,
If you have not done so yet. Replace your ignition switch. it is located on the steering column 24 inches down from the steering wheel (it'll be on the top of the column). Ford is notorius for running too much current through too little wires. their componentry suffers because of it.
If you have not done so yet. Replace your ignition switch. it is located on the steering column 24 inches down from the steering wheel (it'll be on the top of the column). Ford is notorius for running too much current through too little wires. their componentry suffers because of it.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 537
Likes: 2
From: Alabama
Thanks roadtrip357 for the input and welcome to the forum. Replacing the switch is probably the next logical step. This switch only lasted 14 yrs. so I guess it might be about time. Have you ever had this particular problem?
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Ignition switch
Yeah, I own a garage and i see this type of problem all the time. Usually when an older Ford comes in for a "No-Start/No Crank" It is one of 3 things Ignition switch, Starter relay (on the inner passenger side fender) or wiring. Rarely is it the starter. But it does occur. With that much time on the switch, i would recommend replaceing it regardless. The contacts in the switch become burnt over it's lifetime. and cause increased resistance. This could lead to other problems down the road.
Last edited by roadtrip357; Sep 28, 2004 at 08:34 AM.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 537
Likes: 2
From: Alabama
O.K.
Ignition switch replaced and that was not the problem. New switch did just like old switch. Checked both with a DVOM and both checked the same. So now I can rule out the lock cylinder and the ignition switch, I guess. Both have been replaced. Talked to Ford dealer and he recommended checking the Lower Actuator arm to see if it is broken. Says that is the only part they generally replace with the symptoms that I have. It was the only one of Upper Actuator,Lower Actuator and drive gear that they stocked. I guess the question that I have now is," Are there any special tools required to replace the Lower Actuator arm,i.e. pin or unpin from ignition rod etc., and are there any TIPS to doing this."
Thanks,
guzzler96
Ignition switch replaced and that was not the problem. New switch did just like old switch. Checked both with a DVOM and both checked the same. So now I can rule out the lock cylinder and the ignition switch, I guess. Both have been replaced. Talked to Ford dealer and he recommended checking the Lower Actuator arm to see if it is broken. Says that is the only part they generally replace with the symptoms that I have. It was the only one of Upper Actuator,Lower Actuator and drive gear that they stocked. I guess the question that I have now is," Are there any special tools required to replace the Lower Actuator arm,i.e. pin or unpin from ignition rod etc., and are there any TIPS to doing this."
Thanks,
guzzler96
Last edited by guzzler96; Sep 30, 2004 at 08:56 AM. Reason: SP
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