Hot engine Start problem
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Hot engine Start problem
When my 1979 351m gets warmed to operating temp it will not start again until it has cooled off-I have replaced-module,coil,solenoid,volt reg,starter,alternator,battery,cap and rotor. Anyone have any ideas what might cause this?
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From: Midwest
Also check battery cables. Heat will build resistance in them. Get very large cables with soldered ends, and find a ground location on the engine as close to the battery as possible and use the shortest cable that will fit.
T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147
T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147
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From: Franklin, GA
And clean every surface that every cable is attached to and the cable ends and battery posts too! Corrosion will cause resistance that will be magnified with heat resulting in reduced amperage to spin the starter. Wire brush the block where the ground is attached.
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From: Grande Prairie, AB
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From: Franklin, GA
Longview1, give us a scenerio. Running then dies and won't restart? No hot restart? Hasn't started in God knows when? I don't want to give you a list as long as my leg without an attempt to narrow it down first. You'd hunt me down and beat me if I listed everything that went through my head!
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From: Grande Prairie, AB
Haha,
Good thinkin,
Just sometimes, not always, after been driving for a while, i shut it off, go into the store or something, come back and it whirls over good and healthy but wont fire up. Then I hold pedal to floor and she finally flashes. I think maybe Im flooding it, not sure. ITs my 78, fires up nice when cold and eberything else.
Good thinkin,
Just sometimes, not always, after been driving for a while, i shut it off, go into the store or something, come back and it whirls over good and healthy but wont fire up. Then I hold pedal to floor and she finally flashes. I think maybe Im flooding it, not sure. ITs my 78, fires up nice when cold and eberything else.
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From: Franklin, GA
That narrows it down considerably! Probably carb associated. Next time it happens, I'd check to see if the choke is stuck in the closed position. When you raise the hood to check the choke, pay particular attention to whether you notice a strong fuel odor. This would be related to probable flooding problems (example: float level, debris blocking needle from seat, cracks in accelerator pump). If flooding is evident, check the air filter. If it is filthy, it can contribute to flooding a hot engine. And last (whew!), it could be related to fuel delivery problems linked to fuel pump and fuel filter. Pump could have a crack in the diaphram causing leak down. Filter could have debris in it. Check the rubber fuel lines from the fuel pump to the carb for cracks and loose clamps. That can cause you to suck air. Re-post with your findings or for futher help.
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From: SD
Originally Posted by longview1
Haha,
Good thinkin,
Just sometimes, not always, after been driving for a while, i shut it off, go into the store or something, come back and it whirls over good and healthy but wont fire up. Then I hold pedal to floor and she finally flashes. I think maybe Im flooding it, not sure. ITs my 78, fires up nice when cold and eberything else.
Good thinkin,
Just sometimes, not always, after been driving for a while, i shut it off, go into the store or something, come back and it whirls over good and healthy but wont fire up. Then I hold pedal to floor and she finally flashes. I think maybe Im flooding it, not sure. ITs my 78, fires up nice when cold and eberything else.
Marty
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
bigblue74,
Next time it happens, pull the coil wire and turn it over. If it spins nice & fast, timing is the problem.
If it still turns slow, follow the advice above. Especially the post about the larger battery cables.
Kevin K.
Next time it happens, pull the coil wire and turn it over. If it spins nice & fast, timing is the problem.
If it still turns slow, follow the advice above. Especially the post about the larger battery cables.
Kevin K.
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From: Gainesville, FL
BB74,
Thius appears to be a common characteristic of the 135M. I have a 78 351M that does this. I bought a 1000 Cranking Amp battery and it still does it. By holding the pedal down during a hot start seems to reduce the problem. By turning the timing back, you can reduce the problem but then you lose HP. Strangely enough, by adding a motor to cab ground i reduce some of the problem.
Consider it,
KingFisher
Thius appears to be a common characteristic of the 135M. I have a 78 351M that does this. I bought a 1000 Cranking Amp battery and it still does it. By holding the pedal down during a hot start seems to reduce the problem. By turning the timing back, you can reduce the problem but then you lose HP. Strangely enough, by adding a motor to cab ground i reduce some of the problem.
Consider it,
KingFisher
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