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I agree, the frame will be just fine... There's no point in running a second cable all that way when you have a huge conductor like your frame.. that is what I did on mine and it works great....
I agree. Use the frame. I would recommend that you run an extra ground wire from the battery to the frame. I don't think the factory ground wires for the frame are big enough for the load.
Very good idea! Usually all electrical is grounded to the frame some how. A heavy gauge wire directly to the frame from the batt. is a "positive" ground. I used that word in quotes not for polarity reasons...meaning good.
ok guys, thanks for all your help, just one more quick question and thats it, i promise. does it matter which battery i take the postitive cable from, cause i got dual batt. i hope it doesnt matter cause i ran a cable from the drivers side battery.
Well if your REALLY worried about it, you are limited by the cable size between the two batteries. If you want to balance the load perfectly evenly between the two you need to run the big cables between the batteries as well as to your load. If you want to get the best source without all that then I would run from the passenger side. Then you don't have the small cable limitation from using the right side.
Last edited by Kwikkordead; Sep 30, 2004 at 11:09 PM.
Yes I think so. The cables between the two batteries may get a little warm under a heavy load but in reality I think that is the worst that will happen.
ok good enough for me, i was just concerned cause i dont want to melt anything, and you mean warm, but not warm to start melting right? on my other vehicle, i have a winch on it too, and if i use it alot or do some heavy pulling i will stop to let things cool before pulling some more
Hey Guys, sorry I haven't been on for a while.. I agree with Kwik about running an extra ground from the battery to the frame.. I did that as well on my last truck and plan to hook one up for this truck.. I ran my cables from the passenger side as I said before because of the wire in between the 2 batteries.. I wanted to eliminate that possibilty of heating that small wire up..
Hey Kwik, I was just at my local napa dealer and was asking about you airfilter.. seems like I can get it up here in BC as well.. Did you tke out your whole stock air box to get that filter in there ?? The filter retails up here for $110 canadian.. My cost is $56.. I get pretty good deals from napa... thats like $2 us.. hahahaha !!!
The stock air box must be removed. Just take all the little screws out of the bottom. Be careful of the ambient air temperature sensor mounted in the bottom half. It is easily removed with a 1/8 turn and out. I zip tied it to the master cylinder after it was removed from the housing.
I can't remember what I paid for mine, it was around $30.00 US.
Russ,
One thing I did for my truck was to make a set of jumper cables that have a plug that matches the winch on the other end. This way you can jump your truck from the rear or front and you don't have to pop the hood. I also stop and help a lot of people that are broke down (Ch*vies and D*dges) and it makes it nice to be able to pull in front of them and stay facing traffic if they need a jump.
TexasStroke
Russ,
One thing I did for my truck was to make a set of jumper cables that have a plug that matches the winch on the other end. This way you can jump your truck from the rear or front and you don't have to pop the hood. I also stop and help a lot of people that are broke down (Ch*vies and D*dges) and it makes it nice to be able to pull in front of them and stay facing traffic if they need a jump.
TexasStroke
Yes, that's a good thing... I have a cable that is made up for that exact thing, but I haven't got the alligator clips for the other end.... I've had those cable for 3 yrs now and haven't really spent the time to find the big alligators.. My work cuts into to much of my "play with truck time" Thanks for reminding me though.. I should get that done.... I really need to get the winch conected to the battery end though.. the bad weather is right around the corner...
So in the end, how did you end up conecting those big cables to your battery ?? Do you have the stock conections on yours or did you modify them... There is that small nut on the positive side.. Did you just hook it up to that ??? Just wondering.. I'm going to try and get it all finished up this week..
The stock air box must be removed. Just take all the little screws out of the bottom. Be careful of the ambient air temperature sensor mounted in the bottom half. It is easily removed with a 1/8 turn and out. I zip tied it to the master cylinder after it was removed from the housing.
I can't remember what I paid for mine, it was around $30.00 US.
You've probably answered this before but what did you do with the reset button/sensor in the top part of the air box.... some of the other guys were talking about drilling one of these into the new air filter.. what did you do ??
You've probably answered this before but what did you do with the reset button/sensor in the top part of the air box.... some of the other guys were talking about drilling one of these into the new air filter.. what did you do ??
I threw it out. I can see the filter whenever I open the hood. When it starts to turn grey it gets replaced.