Engine rebuild cost effective???
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From: outback
Engine rebuild cost effective???
I have been looking at pricing out parts to rebuild my 352 and i dont get it. Seems that parts cost way more than a brand new engine. Maybe i am missing something here. What is TRULY needed in a rebuild? And where is a good place to get them? It might be nice to build up to the 390 since there seem to be a lot more parts but then how much is the millwork cost on such a thing? Thanks for the advice...
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From: Texas Hill Country
I've found the same thing... $2700 is the best price I've gotten. Cylinders hone and heads milled, valve seats, new rings, bearings, gaskets.
It's crazy, I can buy a long block for under $1500, but trying to keep it original.
It's crazy, I can buy a long block for under $1500, but trying to keep it original.
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
There are things you can do that are mandatory and things you can do that are not. It didn't cost me that much ($2700) to get my truck on the road. Now, I do what I can when I can (cam, heads, etc) but I'm driving the truck. If you are looking to run 1/4's as soon as you can, it'll cost you. If you need a ride, you can do it for about $1000. My .02
You being down under will probably affect the price to rebuild. A rebuilt 390 on ebay will run between $3000 and $5000.
Edit: BTW, hell yeah it's worth it, to bring one of these babies back to life.
You being down under will probably affect the price to rebuild. A rebuilt 390 on ebay will run between $3000 and $5000.
Edit: BTW, hell yeah it's worth it, to bring one of these babies back to life.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Near Fresno, California
Engines that do not need machine work can be "rebuilt" for less than $250 using napa parts. All you really need is new main, rod and cam bearings, new rings, and to hand lap the valves in. You also need new freeze plugs and a gasket set. I would have the block hot tanked at a machine shop, and let them check the machined surfaces and install the cam bearings.
It is unlikely that an engine as old as your 352 will go back standard - how many miles are on that engine, and was the oil changed regularly?
Anyway, $250 is about the low end, and it will cost you nothing but your time and work to have the block checked to see how much machining it will require.
It is unlikely that an engine as old as your 352 will go back standard - how many miles are on that engine, and was the oil changed regularly?
Anyway, $250 is about the low end, and it will cost you nothing but your time and work to have the block checked to see how much machining it will require.
Last edited by WillyB; Sep 23, 2004 at 09:17 PM.
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From: outback
[QUOTE=WillyB] how many miles are on that engine, and was the oil changed regularly?
Engine has 90k miles on it but i just got it. Original paint is great and no rust so i am sure it was take care of most of its life. There is a ticking noise and it is hard to start when cold. I dont think (knock knock) it needs a rebuild for sure but who knows. Trans has no reverse so that probably needs a rebuild first. Maybe some carb work and removing the valve covers and looking for the tick is the best thing. What do you think?
Engine has 90k miles on it but i just got it. Original paint is great and no rust so i am sure it was take care of most of its life. There is a ticking noise and it is hard to start when cold. I dont think (knock knock) it needs a rebuild for sure but who knows. Trans has no reverse so that probably needs a rebuild first. Maybe some carb work and removing the valve covers and looking for the tick is the best thing. What do you think?
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Points or electronic ignition? What kind of carb? Save your money until you notice something major. Chances are the tick is something simple (relatively speaking). Does it tick all the time, when it's cold, higher rpm?
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From: burlington, iowa
got mine done for $1007.17, that included boiling it magnafluxing,a bore job .060, new head job, new crank, new cam, new lifters, new rods, new pistons and completly assembled and ready to put back in. plus they powdercoated it ford blue. if you wanna go cheap they sell the 390 kits on ebay for $371.00. frankly i didnt have the time or the place to do it myself. they charged me 215 bucks for the assembly part and it doesnt leak a drop of oil anywhere so i am happy with letting them do it
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From: Texas Hill Country
Originally Posted by fordloverf2501970
got mine done for $1007.17, that included ... frankly i didnt have the time or the place to do it ...i am happy with letting them do it
I hear that FordLover... if I could have it simply gone thru for a $1000 I'd gladly spend it.
Different prices in different markets I suppose.
Last edited by GolferSA; Sep 23, 2004 at 10:43 PM.
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Post Fiend
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From: Near Fresno, California
There you go - price does not have to be excessive - most of those who toss prices around this board are making their motors better than new, which is not required for a daily driver. The stock setup has lasted 30 years - how much better do you need?
As for your ticking, I would drive it a bit and see what happens. It is hard to guess without hearing the tick, but it could be something as simple is a bad plug wire shorting to the block, or a peice of tape on the fan belt. One time I was fooled by a knock caused by the heat riser. Most likely it is a weak lifter - which may correct itself as you use it.
If it were me, I would change the oil now and again in about 500 miles - and add a 1/2 can of ATF to the oil each time. I wouldn't push the engine, rap it too high and would shut it down if the ticking got any louder.
But mostly I would use it a while before I did anything.
As for your ticking, I would drive it a bit and see what happens. It is hard to guess without hearing the tick, but it could be something as simple is a bad plug wire shorting to the block, or a peice of tape on the fan belt. One time I was fooled by a knock caused by the heat riser. Most likely it is a weak lifter - which may correct itself as you use it.
If it were me, I would change the oil now and again in about 500 miles - and add a 1/2 can of ATF to the oil each time. I wouldn't push the engine, rap it too high and would shut it down if the ticking got any louder.
But mostly I would use it a while before I did anything.
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From: outback
Originally Posted by WillyB
I wouldn't push the engine, rap it too high and would shut it down if the ticking got any louder. But mostly I would use it a while before I did anything.
I am going to be driving it 2000 miles over the weekend to get it home so....
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From: outback
Originally Posted by debestuss
Points or electronic ignition? What kind of carb? Save your money until you notice something major. Chances are the tick is something simple (relatively speaking). Does it tick all the time, when it's cold, higher rpm?
Post Fiend
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From: Near Fresno, California
Originally Posted by elemint
Add ATF to the engine??
I am going to be driving it 2000 miles over the weekend to get it home so....
I am going to be driving it 2000 miles over the weekend to get it home so....
I would not add ATF and drive it that far. ATF is just thin oil with high detergent - good for cleaning lifters. If the engine is gunked up enough sludge could fall into the pan and plug the oil screen.
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by fordloverf2501970
got mine done for $1007.17, that included boiling it magnafluxing,a bore job .060, new head job, new crank, new cam, new lifters, new rods, new pistons and completly assembled and ready to put back in. plus they powdercoated it ford blue. if you wanna go cheap they sell the 390 kits on ebay for $371.00. frankly i didnt have the time or the place to do it myself. they charged me 215 bucks for the assembly part and it doesnt leak a drop of oil anywhere so i am happy with letting them do it
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From: burlington, iowa
i live in southeast iowa. and i used olsens brothers custom shop. owners name is conrad. he builds about half of the race engines in this area. sprint cars and modifieds mostly i think. he stands behind his work and even came over and listened to it once i had it dropped in to make sure it was perfect. and too be clear about one thing, my heads were so shot he said it would be $400+ to repair them so he sold me a good set and rebuilt them for $183. so my total was just under $1200 for everything. still a great deal as far as i was concerned
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From: North Carolina
Well next time Ill just have to take my parts over there to that shop. Hopefully the fuel I burn going there will still be a good deal. If you can get a good deal on heads instead of repalcing them I say do it, cause it gets extrmely expnsive, I could have gotten rebuilt heads for a little better price. Live and learn I guess.
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