Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a pressure tester, most parts places have one, ask for it. If it's out of spec it could be filter, pressure regulator or fuel pump, or a kinked line, I found that one out. If your pump sounds sick it's your pump for sure.

 

Here's a list of fdm (fuel pumps) and pictures for your truck at Advanceauto.com Link to page http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?PartType=52&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Fuel %20Pump EDIT ( then type in fuel pump in the search box , then choose fuel pump most popular results. Click on model number for a pictures. ) Do you see a parts number match or something that looks like yours? What size is your front steel tank? 19 gallons? I dont understand what part you got on ebay? Do you have the link to what you bought. The sending unit is in the FDM and it controls the gas gauge. I had the same thing happen on mine plus the fuel selector valve ( under the truck) was bad, blocking the front fuel pump.

 

I went through the fuel pump(s) working, fuel pump(s) not working, then working when temperature was over 60 degrees.
Long story short the problem was the tank selection switch on the dash.
You also said you were getting twelve volts at the pump?
I thought I only had six going to my pumps(1990 F150 dual tank)
I almost ran twelve to it to check it out and then found a wiring diagram.
I may very well be wrong on this as it was last summer(2003).
Now I have both pumps working but fuel gauge or sending unit is fouled up.
I started to bid on one of the pumps on e-Bay but also didn't know which one is which.
There are also three relays on mine which do the controlling of pumps and pressure for starting engine.
Needless to say I now have a lifetime supply of them as I kept thinking I was blowing them!
Fuel gauge is controlled through this tank switch also I think.
Bottom line is that sucker can really foul up things.
Good luck.
DaveP

 

I have this! http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...ype=52&PTSet=A

If this link doesn't work I'll be putting pictures in my gallery for all to see. Thank you guys, but everywhere I look I see the same part that I have. It's the grey plastic rectangle thing. It better be the right part or I'm going to spaz.

 

So the link didn't work, but if you follow the directions on that site you'll see what I have.

 

whats the part number that we need to look at?

 

The part number is E2059MN. I'm pretty sure that's the part number.

 

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=547 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=547 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=pth align=left>Master or Airtex E2059MN</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD></TR><TR><TD align=left>Electric Fuel Pump: </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD width=547><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=547 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left width=268><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=268 align=left border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle width=268><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=268 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=middle width=268></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>Are those fuel line on top? Must be, I'm not sure were your sending unit is? In the Haynes manual it shows a pic like this but has two 1 inch long fuel lines on top.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

I know! That's why I don't know what's up with my unit. If that is the right unit than I am o.k. Those are electrical wires coming from the top.

 

The unit you have will slip onto the lines at the bottom of the in tank unit after you remove the existing pump (fuel delivery module). You have to be careful to not damage the sender unit while working on the pump removal/replacement. If I remember correctly there are seals and friction clips inside the unit pictured above to hold it onto the piping. There should have been instruction sheets with the module along with crimp wire connectors and a new seal for the tank unit flange - an "o" ring I believe. Make sure the strainer sock is attached to the bottom as shown. All this has to be done after the tank is dropped/accessed from above (remove bed) - whichever is easiest in your situation and the in tank unit is removed from the tank. If you have the metal lock ring use a brass drift to loosen the lock ring to prevent sparks and "Boom". I will look to see if I have an old set of instructions somewhere.

 

It's been discussed elsewhere that if you loosen the bolts holding the bed down removing those on the tank side completely, then you can swing the bed up and prop it up(use 4x4 etc) and then remove the unit(s) from the top side with out dropping the tank.
This would be especially useful if tank(s) has(have) a quantity of fuel in it(them).
Just be careful when removing the rings and reinstalling and use non sparking tools.
Use wooden dowels as punches or some other 'non spark genereating' material.
You really don't want that! Sparks that is!
Remeber you are working with an unregulated explosive.
FWIW DaveP

 

Welp I've made my appointment with my mechanic next week. I just have one more question concerning the application of the part I own.
My symptoms are as follows:

Low gas pressure, surging, lopey idle, under load it barely drives and there's a knocking in the engine bay when it gets starved for gas. So I'm hoping this grey plastic box thing is what I need. I hate replacing things on this ford. It's never ending.

Does anyone know if I have the right part?

 

Well I gue I must have the right part. If anyone knows please confirm. Thanks.

 

Really need a better description than "gray plastic box thing".

 

Go back one page to the first page and someone posted the picture. That is what I have. I just hope it's what I need. I can't seem to get a clear confirmation.