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The problem usually is not the plastic gear, it is the three little white/opague plastic cylinders that go between the triangle and the outer housing, they discinagrate to nothing, then the motor sits and spins and the window does not move, I heard of some guys the other day that used cuts of wooden dowel rod, used in place of the plastic cylinders and got there windows to work. Broken Wire
Yea it could be those 3 plastic 'bushings'. Was there a bunch of broken plastic when you opened it? If its the motor that doesnt work at all, I dont think theres gonna be any pages describing how to rebuild. A new one is relatively cheap ($50).
It is definately not those 3 rubber deals. I have had that problem before. When it is those deals, the motor still operates. Mine has no operation at all. I am planning to open it up and clean the brushes and the electrical contacts but I am trying to find a link that details the operation.
If the motor doesn't run at all, it is either the door switch or the motor. The motors seldom go out, but the brushes wear out. I hane repaired several by pulling the brushes from an old drill, edger, or electric chainsaw and using them. Had to "size them down" a little using a piece of emeory cloth and solder the leads. Don't know where you can get new brushes (I couldn't locate any).
got a replacement for mine for $50 at auto zone, with lifetime warranty. the only thing was that only two of the bolts lined up, not all three. but, it has worked good for almost a year.
No link to detailed rebuild, but as long as the switch is ok, the motor is similar to starter motor. 2 bolts holding end plate on, lots of times brushes need freeing up. Then a little sealer around end cap. My 89 CV is still working after a "free-up" job about 6 yrs ago.
I know it is not the switch, I get power to the motor. I hook the motor to a power supply and it just makes a little noise like it wants to do something. I took the thing apart and it is pretty simple. I cleaned the two metal pieces held in place by springs ( I am not sure what they are called, brushes?) as well as the area that rotates where they make contact. The motor started to move when connected to power. I started tapping on the motor case to see if that would help but no luck. I reopened it to see if it possibly needed more cleaning and found that the tapping cracked on of the two magnets located inside the case in half. I don't guess I can repair it now.
If the magnet is just broke in two pieces but still in the case solid, put it together as it is, if the magnet has broken apart from the case and in two pieces, glue the magnet back into the case with a five minute epoxy and a small "c" clamp. If the magnet has fallen out and broken in two pieces, well then you have to have something to go by to locate which pole is north and the other south and put the magnet back in the case in the correct orientation. By the way, a broken magnet has been proven to perform very well. broken Wire
got a replacement for mine for $50 at auto zone, with lifetime warranty. the only thing was that only two of the bolts lined up, not all three. but, it has worked good for almost a year.
Same here....replaced one on my 90 and all is well.
dino 360 can I ride on your thread with a question? the drivers side electric motor for the window seens like its on NOS, if I push the button from full closed or full open it gets so wound up it all mosts breaks the glass when it finishes, anyone heard of this one?
I had an old motor laying around that was for a tailgate wondow and was the wrong way like the passenger door. My broken one was out of the driver side. All I did was take both motors apart and switch the heads. I installed the motor last night and it works fine. I would still like to hang on to the broken one and try that fix that Broken Wire talks about. What does that adjuxting screw on the end or the motor adjust any way? Maybe it controls the speed and could fix Omni's problem?