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Thanks to all for the tips on changing spark plugs on my 4.6L. Took me 3 hours yesterday to change all eight only to find out I installed the wrong plugs !!!!!!!! . Long story short, dont try Bosch Platniums. I did it, and the truck ran like crappo. Check engine light came on and was very sluggish.
So this afternoon I went over to NAPA and bought the Double Platnium Autolites. After 1 hour and 45 minutes she runs like a champ again.
Question for those who have changed theres. Did you measure the gap on any of the plugs you "removed"? If so how many miles did you have on them.
Mine measured .065" to .070". Curious if this is normal wear after 50K miles(nominal set gap .054")?
Thanks agian for the tips, not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
I measure mine (97 expy 2x4, 5.4) each change to check for a "hot" cop or "dull" cop. I don't want to have to get into changing a plug after a fresh change. I compare burn marks and residue for possible problems, oil consumption or valve leakage. I turn around 120k between changes and have 338k + on mine. Mine is my work truck and that's why I analyze my plugs, its my money maker, down time is lost time.
Your right about the Bosch's, they do not like Ford's, been there, done that. I highly recommend anyone who read's this to use only Ford recommended plugs on 96 and newer. The Ford Cop system is set up for them and is an efficient burning system, trying to upgrade to a hotter plug does not help.
Last edited by High_Horse; Sep 19, 2004 at 06:59 PM.
Well the gap on my plugs.....was....very large to say the least after 115,000 miles. After reading here i went with OEM plugs. That way my back well not hurt for a few more years.
Ok guys, need some of that awesome knowledge. After I installed the Autolite Double Plat's my initial test drive (highway and city) showed susbstaintial improvement over the Bosch "dead heads" . Get on the e-way this am under acceleration I feel a hestitation/jerk, but definatley down on power. Again just under acceleration, constant spped seems fine. Didnt do this with old motorcraft plugs, didnt do it on intial test drive. No CEL. My test drive after installing the Bosch Plat's was a hestitation/jerk bad enough to turn CEL on. So here I sit scratching my head, thinking I had this beat by installing the OEM recommended plug. Could I have knock off a line of some sorts? How about that infimous PVC hose, could have I hit it just enough to crack the elbow? Plug wire boot?
Thoughts?
Check to make sure that all of the boots are pushed all the way down on the plugs. Had that happen to me.
I went through 2 sets of Bosch plugs before I learned my lesson and put Motorcraft back in. DO you have a code reader? If not stop by AutoZone and have them read it. It will tell you which cylinder is misfiring.
MitchPeters, thanks for the feedback, I wondered about that. I had a few that I had heard an "audible click" when insterting the boot onto the new plug but others I did not. Any ideas on how I can insert more force down ecspecially on the pass side rear?
As for codes, the CEL must be on correct to read? Thanks again for the feedback.
you can only go so far with the boot because of the COP securing point. The spring inside the boot is there to compensate for the distance. You may want to check you boots for any orange dusty sediment, if so clean it, it can foul a COP.
Btw, if your not getting a check engine light, you won't get a code to register, even on a deep diagnosis. You have to wait for the COP to foul completely for the computer to pick it up.
You can try the "Windex" check if you want, spray each COP with a shot of windex, one at a time. Give it a couple seconds to see if the miss repeats, if not go to the next cop, if so, you found your problem child.
BTW, this is a 1998 4.6. No COPS, just two EDIS coil packs, one each mounted at the front of the cylinder heads, and each powering 4 plugs through traditional spark plug wires.
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