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How do you go about removing a broken water pump bolt from a engine block?
Is it easy to do or would it be better to take it to a shop and get it profesionaly removed?
you can pick up a bolt extractor set and do it yourself. cost is about 15 to 50 bucks depending on the type you get. basically what you do is drill out the center of the bolt to a specific size and use the tool in a CCW direction to remove it. most of them have a left handed drill bit with the extractors.
if you do however. mark the bit with a piece of tape so you know when you are at the end of the bolt. also using a center punch will help start the drill bit in the center of the bolt.
sometimes you can cheat and use a straight bladed screw driver hammered into the hole you drilled and back it out, becuase drilling the bolt out relieves enough tension between it and the block.
is it broken flush with the block or is it sticking out or in the hole. if it is stick out some, maybe you could get some vise grips and try to get it, but rarely are we lucky enough to find it broken like that.
if you can, get a chisel and a hammer and make a ridge on the top of the bolt, then put the chisel on that ridge at an angle facing the direction that loosens the bolt, then hit the chisel with the hammer and see if that turns the bolt out, you follow
an even better recipe. drill out the center with say a 5/32 bit that should give you about a 1/16" of meat left on each side then use the chisel trick.
I remove broken bolts daily at my job. The easy outs are great. A larger bolt is easier to back out with a hammer & center punch like someone else mentioned, but the water pump bolts I've seen are a little small for that. The trick to using an easy out is DRILL IT ON CENTER even a slight bit off can mean ruining the female threads in the hole. Step 1: grind or file the end of the bolt so it is flat and perpandicular to the threads. Step 2: center punch LIGHTLY, in case you're are off alittle bit you can hit it again. Step 3: pilot drill with a smaller drill than is called for on the easy out, as they are easier to eye up. Step 4 tap in the easy out & back out the bolt. I prefer the easy outs that have spiraled flutes to the square ones with 4 sharp edges. Also, if you are able to drill the whole way through the bolt spray P Blaster in the hole, then gently heat the area around the broken bolt. GOOD LUCK. PS should you happen to mess up the threaded hole Look into an EZ LOK threaded insert for repair, they're much better than a heli coil, but require a little more room.
that sucks. carbide will cut it but its just as brittle as the ez out. one of us should have mentioned that they can break easy.
what size hole did you drill for the ez-out? did you go all the way thru the bolt.
OK, that definately sux, but life goes on. 1st, heat the s*** out of the easy out to remove the case hardening. ( it will turn a dull blue-grey, after it has bed nearly orange). Now after it has cooled, try to twist the ez out to the right so it disengages.( is this a spiral fluted 1, or a crappy square 1?) Either way a cobalt drill bit should jar it clockwise enough to disengage it. I recommend staying away from a carbide drill as they are fragile, and difficult to use outside of a machine, not to mention EXPENSIVE! Can you get us a photo of the bolt?
the screw extractors are carbon steel (we make them for Craftsman, Snap-On and others) and when heated red and allowed to cool naturally, will be soft enough to drill
use as large a drill as you can and as slow a speed as you can with cutting oil and do not get the part too hot as it will reharden
when you have the screw extractor removed, all that heating and cooling will probably have loosened the stuck broken bolt so a screw extractor will work
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