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when my van is rocked, or twisted from side to side. like when going in and out of driveways, it creaks squeaks and squaks. not really loud, but it sounds like rubber on metal kinda.
Most likely culprit is the sway bar links that connect the sway bar to the lower control arm. They are prone to wear and are inexpensive to change. Also look at the two large sway bar bushings located up front. It takes a lot of wear to grind them down, but sometimes they can get cocked off center and set up noises you describe. A shot of penetrating oil will help to find the noisy spot, especially if you can rock the van at rest and make the noise.
Tie rod ends can make the same noise too.
An easy way to rock the van to try to find the noise is to open a door and push and pull it up and down from the end.
I'm getting the same thing from my Aerostar, I'm presently looking for Polyurathane bushing to replace the ones I installed at 50K. All I need is the specs on the OEM frame bushings, and sway bar end spindles with bushings. The advertisment on this post is funny, DJ World, sound effects and free music downloads. I guess if we can't fix it we can always crank it up to drown out the noise.
Last edited by Aftrmidnite; Sep 15, 2004 at 08:36 PM.
My Aerostar also had the creaking problem.....along with the slack steering(wheel in the 2 oclock position on straight roads. Replaced the tie rod ends, and it's all good. But honestly, couldn't hear the creaking for the power steering noise. Jeez, it sounds so loud I'm almost afraid to drive home late at night from work. Luckilly, it's louder in the drivers compartment than it is outside.
Good luck with that
Had a similar noise on the passenger side. Squirted WD 40 on upper control arm bushings and it went away for about 6 months. Seems to be coming back again.
I have a cracking noise on the left side when going over speedbumps or making sharp turns. I think the lower ball joint has play and cracks. I thought I could easily change it by removing the lower arm and taking it to a press - but no, the ball joint is also pressed into the spindle. I guess I need a puller...
I think the part you are talking about is the outer tie rod, on the other end it is threaded into a long threaded part (inner tie rod) and has a large nut on it locking it against the outer tie rod. You'll need a two jaw puller, I used the Craftsman 6 1/2" X 8" 7 ton puller. Back off the locking nut first, remove the cotter pin, and back off the castle nut, but don't remove it all the way, or use another nut on the stud threaded about five turns onto the stud (better idea). With eye/face protection use the puller to separate the parts. Mine came apart with a bang, thats why you want a nut on the stud that sticks straight up. Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie counting the number of turns it takes. thread the new tie rod on using the same number of turns. This will get you lined up enough to get to the alignment shop. I'd do both sides at the same time.
Last edited by Aftrmidnite; Sep 17, 2004 at 06:51 AM.
Reason: spelling
Hi,
I had the tie rods changed a few years ago. They had play but they didn't make any noise. I still suspect the lower ball joints. I had one come apart on another car and it was a scary experience that's why I feel I should change it.
on my last aerostar the tie rods were bad. this isnt the problem here. heres why i think not..
ever since I got my last aerostar, everytime i went over sharp bumps, like railroad tracks, potholes or if it was just a rough road... there was this clackty clackity sound, on both sides at the same time. I always thought it was the brake pads rattling around.
well, I was under there doing a brake job, and happened to grab the tie rod end for some reason and i was astonished to see how loose it was. the rubber bushing inside was totally gone! and the ball was just rattling around in the cup. both sides were shot.
each part store only carried one! so i had to go to 2 seperate stores. and got 2 different tie rod ends! grrr. on had a zirk fitting on it. the other was identical to stock.
when i took it in for an alignment, the shady shop guy said the stock looking one was bad! he said, "see, this one here was changed, its new. but this one here is original, and needs to be replaced, sir" I said to him "off the racks with my van! I replaced BOTH sides yesterday, thats why I am here today! who knows what else youre going to try and shaft me for. so bye bye, SIR!". he even tried to argue with me that I was wrong!
man that ticked me off. i mean, i take it to the shop for the one thing I havent been able to do myself so far, and the guy tries to rip me off! it just reinforces my suspicion about mechanics. they are all out to rip you off!
I know not ALL mechs are bad. but you have to be careful!
I may take my van to an alignment shop just to see what they say is bad. then do the fixing myself.
I know they check all the Bushings, Tie Rods, and Ball Joints before they start, So they know it will drive straight. I see more of them just say there bad for know reason at all.
I let them know up front "Hey I just replaced all my Bushings and Ball joints as well as my Tie Rods and never had one try that trick on me again.
kolamezed be careful with that. Years ago, I replaced a tie rod end on a car I bought for $100 & took it to be aligned at a national chain (i had a coupon). They told me all of the 'checks' they would do, blah blah blah. I told the guy to 'look' at the car (it looked like it was only worth $100, but it ran great) all I wanted was the alignment checked & to make it reasonably close to spec. When they were done, the guy said he couldn't align it & handed me an estimate for $650 ($10 in parts, the rest labor) for upper control arm bushings! When he showed me the bushing 'problem' I saw that there were no bushings left at all! I told him they were there b4 he started his work, how did he 'check' them? He said their standard 'procedure' is to grab them with a pair of channel locks & try to pull them out! I couldn't beleive it! Ever since then the front end was a mess, but I didn't have the money to fix it so I just drove it as it was.
Here's the good part (for me anyway)...
Years later, I was in business & our company had about 10 vehicles. I got a phone call from this national company asking to service our vehicles. I politely told the guy I wasn't interested, but he was very persistent. I asked him if he really wanted to know why I wouldn't do business with him. He said yes. I told him the above story & added that if one of my vans broke down in the PARKING LOT of one of these stores, I would have it TOWED somewhere else to get it fixed.
He agreed and never bothered me again.
I guess you could say I 'Stone Fired' him, if you catch my drift.
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