Rear Leaf Spring Hanger
I'm hoping you guys can help me out. The other day I "developed" a hole in the brake line that runs along the driver's side frame rail. Not a big deal to fix, but while I was under the rear axle removing the line from the frame, I noticed that my Driver's side rear spring hanger is only holding on by a thread.
If you've never looked at your rear spring hangers, and your truck has ever lived in a northern or coastal (any sometimes-salty) climate, please do yourself a favor and check them out. One of mine is rusted nearly through, and the other is getting pretty bad. Since they sit behind the rear wheels, they catch anything that the road wants to slosh up. If this thing fails, it could be disasterous.
These hangers are J-shaped in profile, with the top of the J riveted to the frame, and the "bowl" of it being the mount for the leaf spring shackle. The shackle is bolted to the hanger with a very heavy-grade steel bolt, but the hanger itself is apparently very susceptible to rust and in my case, has weakened to the point that one half of the mount has broken free. The only thing suspending my 5000+lb truck over the axle is the already-cracked bracket which looks like it really wants to die.
I've found the part for about $50 retail from a dealer, and about $25 + shipping from trucksprings.com although that one would be an aftermarket part... and I will probably buy the Ford part. 'specially since my future step-bro-in-law is a parts manager.
OK, so there's a little PSA and some background on my question: Has anyone ever replaced one of these mounts?
It looks like I have to drop the gas tank, then drill out or torch off the rivets. After that, the new ones should just bolt on. Anyone with experience here please offer some hints
. I've also never removed a rivet from a frame before. I'm told a torch is the preferred tool, but I already have a drill and that seems safer and harder to screw up. The process seems very easy even though it will probably take me a few afternoons. I really don't want to pay for help unless I really need to. Lift time and services will cost me at least $100, even from a friend.Anyway, please let me know if you've replaced one of these before or if you can offer advice on removing the rivets. Thanks in advance!
-JD
P.S. this is copied from the Big Bronco thread since I wasn't getting a response. My truck is a 1993 EB 4x4 5.8 AOD Bronco. Thanks!
You may have a hard time getting the bolts out of the leaf springs. I replaced the back lower ones only. The shop did the top ones. They added bolts where the rivets were. I broke my ubolts and center drift pin that holds the leafs. Dont hammer out bolts you will bend the brackets
use an air wrench and/or torch to melt rubber bushings?? While your there, check for broken leafs look for cracks between the ubolts, my main leaf was cracked. If you don't have air tools you can use a pipe on the end of your 1/2 drive rachet, if its got a lifetime warranty
Get that swear jar ready, maybe two jars .
I love rust!!! 87 f150 from the northeast
Last edited by mike L; Sep 14, 2004 at 05:23 PM.
I'm not sure if a Bronco is much different from an F-150......But I just did a 91 F-150 and didn't have any issues with the gas tank. F-series and rangers are infamous for the hangers and shacles rusting out.
Anyway you have access to a compresser and an air chisel?? This will be the easiest way to get everything apart. Obviously a torch would be easy as well....just becareful not to burn the frame too much. I am fortunate in the fact that the previous owner of my 87 F-150 undercoated this truck...but I have to replace the rear in my truck and obviously will need new u-bolts. I'm so **** that I'm likely to replace the springs, shackles and hangers as well. I play with my truck now (http://www.screwtheboss.com/4x4) so it's only a matter of time before stuff starts breaking....so I figure while I'm there......should just change everything

I recommend using Grade 8 Bolts....if I remmy correctly the size you need is 7/16" x 1 1/4
The leaf spring bolt is more then likely going to be seized inside the bushing sleeve. I'd start soaking everything w/ something along the lines of PB Blaster.
Last edited by jwtc36; Sep 14, 2004 at 06:05 PM.
The '93 Bronco's gas tank is in a different place than the '91 F-150. It sits flush with the other side of the frame where the hanger is mounted. So I'll have to drop it no matter what... anyone know of a good way to drain one (other than the typical siphon method)?
I do have a compressor, but no air chisel. Of course, I've never been one to turn down an excuse to buy a new tool
. I dno't have an air wrench, either, but I do have a decent size breaker bar. That along with a 4-pound mallet are what it took to get the spindle nut off of the driver's front wheel when the lock-washer pin failed and the nut flattened out the threads... took a long time, but it did work. pretty much re-threaded the thing
. william_ace: Thanks for the tip on the junkyard, but I do have a Ford parts man in the family... so I think 2 of them will be about $40 brand-new, OEM
. Plus truckspring.com has aftermarket spring hangers for $25 apiece. I really liek the grinding tool idea. I think that could help me deal with siezed bolts as well. If I'm going to have to buy a tool, I think that'll be the one. Does it take a long time to grind off a rivet?mike L: I'll keep an eye out for cracks in the springs, although they do look pretty solid. Oh, yeah and my swear jar is actually a 50-gallon drum
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, but then you would hit a pot hole add get a leaf come throught the bed, ops bad idea. I heard some people remove the filler neck and then syphon the fuel that way. I used a siphon hand pump. I moved my fuel to a 2 1/2 gallon container with a screen on the nozzle because you may pull out some dirt ?? You may have to cut the nuts off the fuel tank strapes, too. Add blocking under the tank when you remove the tank strapes. Sounds like its going to turn into a two weekend job. "Oh, yeah and my swear jar is actually a 50-gallon drum
" If your 50 gallon drum is full you could buy a new truck with no rust!
jusk kidding.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I found chiseling to be incredibly slow (and noisy, wear earplugs!), so I used my cutoff wheel to grind a groove through the middle of the rivet (on the outside of the frame), then chiseled it off. With the groove, the rest of the head chiseled off in 5 seconds or less. Then use a punch and hammer, or your air chisel with a punch bit, and drive the rivet through.
You'll need 7/16x1 1/4" grade 8 bolts to reattach, (and if you are really detail oriented a flat washer,) then split washer and nut.

kinda sad really that I get so giddy about buying new tools... even moreso than the little lady does about buying clothes...
I was wheeling at Paragon Adventure Park in Pa.
http://www.paragonap.com
I am fortunate in the fact that Paragon is only about 20-25 minutes away...so I get to wheel there a couple of times a month...Check my pic site out again next week.....will hopefully have more pics
To the originator of this post.....sorry to steal your thread there for a minute.
I highly recommend purchasing an air hammer.....you won't ever run out of uses for it.

I picked up an air chisel and I'll be trying to get this project done tomorrow. I'm kinda hoping to leave the tank installed, but it might be too much in the way. I guess we'll see tomorrow


