right I am a new member and I will try to make this as short as possible. My 4.0 V6 1991 van was becoming hard to start (had to jump start it a few times in the last week) then I made a trip of about 60 miles with the kids in tow we stopped at a gas station for some drinks, when I tried to start van it would not even turn the engine over so got a few jump starts still nothing, but it did start to burn a blue wire from the starter relay that goes to the fuel pump relay and one other relay that I am not to sure what it does via two yellow wires. Anyway I thought this might be the starter motor causing the wire to burn, so went and got another starter motor ($130 from napa) still burning blue wire but did start the van with a jump from a big truck, then van ran for about 2 mins and stopped, blue wire totaly burnt out (no fuses blown though) had to get AAA to get us home.
With van now at home I have replaced burnt wire, still wont start (no spark at plugs) replaced the fuel pump (in tank) and relays still wont start, (still no spark at plugs) got a used ignition module and a used EEC from a wreckers yard ($75) fitted them and surpries surpries still no spark at plugs (every think else works though) so now I think maybe it is the alternator playing up, got a new one ($140) from discount autos fitted that and guess what STILL NO F***KING SPARK. Now I am looking at replacing the ignition pack above the engine (what a nasty job that looks). Can any of you people out there help with this problem. This is my seconed starter motor and alternator in just over a year and a half, also had to replace head gaskets twice, one used A/C pump and recharge, the van has done 120000 mils and is in good shape other wise.
I am sure this is an easy fix if I could just find out what caused that wire to burn, the haynes manual wiring diagrams are as much use as a chocolate frying pan.

 

That wire is not a wire it is a fuseable link. you need to replace it with another one of the same amperage.

 

Looking at your post more closly I am not sure if this is a fuseable link or not but if it is DO NOT replace it with just a wire for safty. Now...do you have a circuit tester? Its one of those things that has a clip to hook it to ground, a light in the handle and a pointy metal rod that you pierce the wire with. I think you need to trace this wire back and see if you have voltage were it is going to (sounds like your fuel pump right?). if there is no voltage there then you need to start using the circuit tester by pircing the wire a long its route untill you find voltage. You see it sounds like there is more wire damage beyond where you replaced it. You may need to replace the whole run and use the same gage wire or larger. 10 gage is larger than 12 gage.

 

Before you buy more electronics have the ignition module checked out at a parts store and see if the can check out the EEC and distributor pack first.

 

Thanks bear2x2 I did replace that wire with a fuseable link and now I have fiddled around under the engine and found that one of my relays is getting very hot and not energising, fiddled some more and relay started working correctly and now have a spark at the plugs, this was after I pulled of the wire from the crankshaft pickup for the ignition pack, well low and behold now I have a spark but the engine wont run still (no wires under the hood are getting, the relay that was getting hot is now not but I think the relay for the fuel pump is not working when it should I tried jumping this relay so the pump would run but still wont start, WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON HERE.
cbr900
p.s thanks for the advice anyway.

 

cbr900:

I believe that there is a Fuel pump shut-off switch behind the passenger side kick panel.
You might have to re-set it.

Jay

 

thanks Jay but I have checked that switch many times and it is OK. Now I a spark and it is making all the right noises but no GO. So I think I will get an engine bay wiring harnes and change that, and if that does not fix it I will scrap it.

 

Boy, you did a lot of nasty work on this truck! If you have spark (and assuming timing is still normal), the only other thing is that it's not getting fuel. Check the fuel pressure regulator on top of the manifold-the one with the small hose on it. Or maybe the injectors got messed up from the wire meltdown.
I don't know if the harness replacement is worth it/or will fix it

 

Sounds like a no fuel situation to me. or jumped timing.....

 

When you turn the key to the first position do you here the fuel pump run and and then shut off with a click?

 

It is hard to trouble shoot over the internet but one member suggested jumped timing. You can check this by marking on the distributor housing were the #1 sparkplug terminal on the distributor cap is. Then remove the distributor cap. Next remove #1 spark plug and have some one put their finger over it while you turn the engine with a wrench in the direction of rotation. When he piston is coming up on compression your helper will feel the pressure build up on their finger. Now turn untill the timing marker points to zero on the pully. This means #1 diston is at top dead center and your rotor should be in alignment with the mark you made on the distributor housing. If it is not your timing chain has jumped and needs replaced.

 

thanks everybody for the advice, my aerostar is now a runner. I found a burnt out connection on one of the big round connectors above the engine, the one that plugs into the injecter harness, cleand this connection up and haypresto it started thank the f***k for that. I had even bourght a code reader but I had so many bleebs between stops that I could not determain what code was being sent, waste of money that was. Anyway it's back on the road with it's awsome V6 power. thanks again.