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But remember Tim, that less gravity thing is working against you when you are trying to get traction...
Traction??? what Traction??? oh well.... Tire smoke is good enough for me.
And if you think Australia is "hot rod heaven" you should have a look at New Zealand.
Less population, so slightly less support, and a lot of Japanese based vehicles (they have almost no import rules), but they are motorsport MAD!!!
They feed the Race to The Sky (sister event to the Pikes Peak) almost on thier own...
Instead of venting to air, You can do what Bighoss550 said. It would be better on the engine to pull the pressure from the crankcase. You can get a kit from Summit that was designed just for this purpose. It helps pull a vacuum on the crankcase and promote less blowbye in the engine.
The kit normally comes with 2 of these and valve cover breather replacements. But all you need is the check valve and piece of pipe that welds into the exhaust. Moroso Replacement Check Valves Crankcase Evacuation System, Replacement Check Valve, Steel, Gold Iridited, Universal, Each
Part # MOR-97800
Moroso Replacement Weld-In Nipple Fittings Crankcase Evacuation System, Replacement Weld-In Nipple Fitting, Steel, Natural, Each
Part # MOR-97810
Last edited by captchas; Aug 14, 2005 at 08:57 AM.
Reason: over size links removed
If the check valve fails, it wouldn't really have any ill effect. If the pipe is installed into the exhaust correctly (pointed towards the exhaust exit) then exhaust fumes will not go back towards the crankcase.
After thinking about it further I was figuring on pulling the tail piece of exhaust pipe and placing it just after the flange from the muffler in the tail piece making it easier to weld and less to pull apart. This way nothing gets plugged (CC or muffler) over time and if in the event of uncertainty one could easily separate the muffler and tail pipe exposing the nipple for cleaning or removal. A nipple made from stainless steel would work for the 3.5 + inch SS exhausts.
Has anyone had problems with warrenty after the crankcase reroute?
I want to do this to mine but Ford has already found every excuse on mine not to do warrenty work.
Darn...major bummer. I got the nipple and checkvalve installed. However, I decided to upgrade the exhaust in the process to a MBRP 3.5" turbo to CAT and then 4" from CAT back. I placed the nipple in the section between the CAT and the muffler. Welded in at 45 degrees as directed, but the dang thing blows exhaust out the nipple instead of sucking air in. I double checked...it's positioned the right way (according to the install instructions).
The exhaust blowing past the nipple should be sucking air in according to the Bournelli (sp?) principle. I tried having my wife rev the engine to blow more air past, it just blows exhaust out the nipple harder. I'm also pretty darn sure I installed the high flow muffler the right direction too.
BTW, I discovered this problem when I noticed oil forming around the check valve. I disassembed the hose and checkvalve and determined that the exhaust was a way higher pressure than the crankcase, so the oil leaked out of the check valve because it had no where else to go.
Any ideas anyone? I'm at a loss.
Last edited by captchas; Aug 14, 2005 at 08:59 AM.
Reason: quote removed
Loonatic--go to racor.com and go to air fiiltration products under the dropdown box. or search for a ccv4500. I think this is really the way to go, but I couldn't find any pricing on it. http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...&sMode=Details Cut and Paste this link into your browser--maybe one of the more computer saavy can clean this up some for a better link. Maybe OILGUARD has something like this????
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.