What is the procedure for testing the inner tie rod ends for wear or if they are broken? I found procedures for the outer tie rod ends as well as the ball joints but can't seem to find ones for the inner. I want to make sure this is the problem before I spend the money on a new rack.

 

Here's what I'd do:

Get the vehicle up high enough so that you can see underneath. If you're flexible and don't mind laying on the ground, this might mean just laying down in front of the van.

Get an assistant. Have her turn the key far enough to unlock the steering wheel, then have her move the wheel left and right repeatedly, only as far as it will go easily. Engine off! Have her do this over and over, while you watch underneath.

Spot the steering rack, it's right in front on the front of the crossmember. Watch the input coupling move back and forth as she moves the steering wheel. Does it appear to move (in degrees) as far as the steering wheel moves? This is a guess, of course, but can rule out a whole lot of stuff, such as worn out intermediate steering input shaft u-joints and flexible joints, as well as play in the steering column itself (it can happen). If the rack's input coupling, right at the rack, seems to move just as many degrees as the steering wheel, then start watching the tie rods at the two black plastic accordian-pleated bellows while she continues to bounce the steering wheel back and forth against the load points (engine OFF!).

As the coupling comes to the end of each direction, it will stop because it's actually beginning to actuate something that resists moving. This should be both (or one) of the tie rods, which push on the spindles via the tie rod ends. If you can't see slight movement of one tie rod, have her slow down her cycles and push just a slight bit harder at each "end", and you will should be able to see one or both tires deflect slightly.

If one tire begins to deflect before the other, and the outert tie rod end of the other tire is not loose, you'll want to inspect the inner tie rod and rack bushing of end of the rack that's associated with the non-moving tire. Procure a std nylon tie-wrap, like you'd use to bundle a bunch of wires (or restrain a rapist you just caught, using it on his hands, or other body parts), then use a pair of side-cutters to cut the large OEM metal band on the bellows (rack end). Remove the cut metal band, peel back the boot toward the tie rod. You can now see the rack and the inner tie rod.

Have your assistant repeat the gentle rocking of the steering wheel while you watch what moves. If the rack moves up/down before pushing the inner tie rod end and tie rod, you have worn rack bushings and should consider a rebuilt replacement assembly. Chances are that you can also hear this kind of wear -- over bumps, a worn rack has a distinctive rattle.

If there's slop in the inner tie rod end, you will now be able to see it -- the rack will be moving in/out, but the tie rod will not. I have not replaced an inner tie rod end on a rack & pinion type steering in a great number of years, and I've heard that the method varies. Consider replacing the rack assy. with a rebuilt unit, they're pretty cheap (under $100) and relatively easy to replace. You will have to have the toe-in realigned after replacement, of course, so factor in that cost, but you'd have that cost if you replaced a rod end anyway.

If your boot is in decent condition, you can put the boot back over the rack end (note that you have to line up the air equalizer tube first) and resecure it using the nylon tie-wrap. If not, you'll want to buy one or two boot kits and replace them (I just bought and installed one NAPA 269-1582, $15.34 (ea.) for my '89). You do have to separate each outer tie rod end from the spindle to replace these boots, ask if you don't know how to do this non-destructively.

Regards,
Al S.

 

When I bought new tyres recently and asked the shop to also do an alignment they said they could not do the alignment because the inner tie rods were excessively worn, and quoted $202 to replace them. Obviously I did the job myself. The inner tie rod ends are sold as an assembly with the tie rod attached - they are not available separately (as are the outer tie rod ends). The assembly cost me $17.99 for each side at Autozone, with a lifetime guarantee. The best way to check for wear is to slip the boot off the rack end (my ones pulled off fairly easily, but you may have to remove the clip) so the inner tie rod ends will be visible. Turn the road wheel or the steering wheel back and forth and it will be apparent if there is any wear in the inner tie rod ends. To remove them, first unscrew the tie rod from the outer tie rod end and mark the position of the locking nut so it can be replaced in approximately the same position - you'll have to get an alignment done afterwards. Remove the boot (they're sometimes called bellows). Note the alloy air transfer pipe which is a push fit into the boots. To unscrew the inner tie rod end from the rack a 1 and 5/16 inch open ended wrench will be needed. If you don't have one the parts retailer may have a tool loaner service. (Don't forget to first unscrew the small grubscrew which locks the inner tie rod end to the rack!!!!). Whilst you're unscrewing the inner tie rod end hold the rack steady with locking pliers to prevent it twisting. I drove the front of the van onto 4 inch blocks to do this job, but you may prefer to jack it up and remove the wheels. Jan Richter

 

&l;banging hand on forehead&r;

I'd forgotten that you can unscrew the tie rod from the outer tie rod end without removing the tie rod end from the spindle -- I was still thinking "recirculating ball" steering gear. Yup, if I replace the "other" boot on mine, I'll likely do it that way. I count the number of turns to remove, rather than measuring where the stopnut is, but if you're going to have the rig aligned later (as in the case of replacing a tie rod end (inner or outer), it probably doesn't matter.

Because I was only replacing a boot, I avoided realignment of toe-in by very carefully counting the number of turns to disengage the tie rod end from the tie rod, so my max error on reassembly is +- 1 turn, certainly "close enough".

Thanks for the reminder, Jan!

Regards,
Al S.

 

I have a 93 4.0 Ext AWD.

Took it in for alignment and they said the driver side has play so can't align. They showed me how you can rock the passenger wheel and it moves the driver wheel but not the other way around. He said the driver tie rod-to-spindle was ok so must be inside the bellows.

Should I do as above and remove the driver bellows and look for play? Is there an inner tie rod on AWD? Sure don't want to take to Ford dealer and have them tell me I need a whole new rack when I can replace a part myself. I'm open for any and all advice, especially since it's AWD and there's more junk up front to remove/work around.

Randy
PS: I just replaced both front upper ball joints and control arm bushings.

 

Yes, just follow the instructions given in the prior postings. You can also just squeeze the rubber bellows down until you can feel the rod inside the bellows and test for play. There should be no play felt when the wheel is rocked back and forth. It is best to do this test with the steering loaded, i.e. with the front wheels on the ground to provide necessary resistance for play to be felt.