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For pricing on the R&P setups, you should check out http://www.ring-pinion.com/ . It is the labor that is the real killer. It all depends on the shop. I have heard figures ranging from 1200-2400 installed (R&P included). It is definately not a cheap proposal. That is probably why the old owner of yours didnt swap.
Hey BigBody
First of all welcome to the sight. Just wanted to say that with those tires you have, the stock gears that's still in your rig is way too small. That is most likely why it runs so slugish(even down hill? ) You would be much happier with at least 4.88 gears. Also you might want to consider getting a locker of some sort like an ARB. The front Dana 44, unless you swapped it out you could also upgrade to a 35 spline ARB and axles like what I'm in the middle of doing on my rig. You might want to check out some of my pics in my gallery. Although, I haven't posted any about my front Dana 44 that I'm getting ready to install with the 35 spline ARB yet(but soon), but I have some cool stuff posted on some of the toys that I've installed.
Just a little note: I have had 33" tires for several years now with 2 different gears. First set of gears was 4.10 and my RPM's hung around 2500 at about 75 MPH. I now have 4.56 gears W/same tires and my RPM's are now around 2700 at 75 MPH. Fuel mileage is any where from 9.5 to 11.5 miles per gallon. And that has been with both gear ratios. For when my 33" tires go bad I plan on putting in at least 35" or maybe 37" tires. The 35" should, in theory, bring my RPM's back down to 2500.
From what I understand and could figure out for a general rule of thumb: ussually the next tire size going up, you would want to go up on the gears (numerically) ie.:
33" = 4.10
35" = 4.56
37" = 4.88
and so on.
Hello. Not all replies are that fast, you just lucked out I guess . With 4.56s, that should greatly help your low end get up and go. It should accelerate MUCH better, and have better pulling power. You have 39.5" tires with the 8.8. Wow. Just to let you know, the biggest tire the 8.8 can normally stand is a 37". They just are not very reliable past that. Most guys who run big tires swap out with a much beefier axle like a dana 60. You might be right about 4.56 being the lowest, but that goes back to my previous statement about swapping axles.
I just kinda felt a need to reply to this one. Sure the 8.8 may be a little week when one starts putting larger tires on. Unless you build it up like this guy did: http://code4x4.com/projects/axle_88/axle_88.html
I have been getting around 6 mpg. LOL. I dont think 4.88's fit in the 8.8 rearend so thta wouldnt be an option. I will prolly go for the 4.56 I am sure it will run a lot better than it does now. Anyone have an estimate on cost of the parts and complete isntallation to front and rear?
Tite4x4, You lost me in your first paragraph. What would be the benefit of a locker on the rear on and off-road? The 5 spline ARB that is just an axle right? What would be the point of doing that? Just strength? LMK. Thanks for your help!
The locker would lock both wheels(axles) so that they would rotate at the same speed with out slipping, especially when one tire is in the air. The 35 spline upgrade with the ARB & axles is for the strength. The normal stock spline count on the front Dana 44 is 30 splines.
Hope this helps, If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
HEy, So should I go with a 5.13? Or the 4.88? Or the 4.56? LOL which one? Too many choices.... The chart says 4.56 would give me the best gas mileage. Which is what I want... Plus something good for off-road.
I would say 4.56. They are low enough to provide a much better low end grunt than you have now, but tall enough to provide some decent over the road performance.