Can't start with key
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Can't start with key
I am trying to get my engine running for the first time in my 1980 F-100. I am using a 460.
I had to run a wire from my coil to my battery and cross the solenoid to start it, because I get nothing from the key. I used an ampmeter to trace the power, and I am getting power all the way into my steering column. I have not yet traced it back from the column.
I have had a starter solenoid go bad but I think I was able to turn the key forward and cross the connections to start it. Should I replace the solenoid or could the actuator in the steering wheel be broken. Is there anything else it could be? I am fairly sure I have wired everything properly, hopefully I don't have to continue tracing wires.
Thanks.
I had to run a wire from my coil to my battery and cross the solenoid to start it, because I get nothing from the key. I used an ampmeter to trace the power, and I am getting power all the way into my steering column. I have not yet traced it back from the column.
I have had a starter solenoid go bad but I think I was able to turn the key forward and cross the connections to start it. Should I replace the solenoid or could the actuator in the steering wheel be broken. Is there anything else it could be? I am fairly sure I have wired everything properly, hopefully I don't have to continue tracing wires.
Thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
Sounds to me that your ignition switch may have died, if the power goes to it, but never comes out. If it is that way, there is no power to the solenoid to energize it, making it not turn on the power to the starter.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
Likes: 4
From: Southern IL
Can you shut it down with the key? If you put the key in the run position, can you use pliers and jump across the solenoid? When you turn the key to acc or run, do you have power inside, lights in dash etc and it just won't crank?
All else aside, I would probably try switching out the control module, about 22 bucks. It costs more than the switch but it's easier to change.
If you could give us more specific symptoms with the original configuration, it would help.
All else aside, I would probably try switching out the control module, about 22 bucks. It costs more than the switch but it's easier to change.
If you could give us more specific symptoms with the original configuration, it would help.
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I can jump the solinoid to get it started if I have a wire from the battery to the coil.
I have my dash and everything out, so I don't know what other power I have.
NOt sure yet if I can shut it down with the key. I was busy holding the wire on the coil, and I didn't want to run it long because I don't have tranny fluid till I get the new speedo cable installed. I will get ATF and keep testing.
Thanks for the help.
I have my dash and everything out, so I don't know what other power I have.
NOt sure yet if I can shut it down with the key. I was busy holding the wire on the coil, and I didn't want to run it long because I don't have tranny fluid till I get the new speedo cable installed. I will get ATF and keep testing.
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by 66MercMan; Sep 2, 2004 at 09:22 AM.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
Likes: 4
From: Southern IL
Should have been one on the one you took off. Bolts with two bolts on the outside of the shift lever on the trans case. Safety can be wired around by skinning the two wires that goes to the switch and twisting them together. Next, mine did something similar and it turned out to be the Ign. Module, about 22.00 for my 83. Mine lost the ground and caused the truck to start in the run position and not be able to keep her running. The Module is the only thing that has some control over nearly all of the ignition, Ie., fire.....
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